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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ford announced 30 mins no issues drive on track for focus rs but I can't do more than 2 miles length lap. That is 1.30 min time and I'm getting "slow down" mode all time. I checked the errors code after the hot lap on track and I got P0217 (Engine coolant over temperature condition) and P26FE (no description provided by cobb) all the time.

I just installed mountune oil cooler kit but it doesn't helps. Generally I dont know what to do next with overheating. Can there be some problems with coolant temperature sensor? Or what should I checked next? Maybe thermostat issue?

My mods related to engine are next: Cobb stage 2 93oct, roush intake, colder sparks, ETS fmic, ETS piping, custom downpipe and catback exhaust system, mountune WGA, mountune oil cooler

Ps. Coolant radiator is new one (oem)
Pss. "Slow down" mode means ECU reduces the power and it doesn't go over 4k rpm
 

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It may need the coolant system bleeding. Get yourself one of those infrared temp sensor guns and look at the temps at various points on the radiator and coolant tank.

Ciao
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It may need the coolant system bleeding. Get yourself one of those infrared temp sensor guns and look at the temps at various points on the radiator and coolant tank.

Ciao
Cheked coolant system and no air inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I tried to investigate little bit on coolant temperature issue. So, what I found.

Thermostat opens at 180F (82C in metric)
Low speed fan at (102C in metric)
Medium speed fan at (104C in metric)
Was unable to run High speed fan

I'm getting P0217 (Engine coolant over temperature condition) error when coolant temp getting 230F (110C in metric). Looks like little bit earlier or I'm wrong?

P0217 error.jpg

On Focus RS there are 3 temp sensors, 2 of them are in the engine head. I found one but can't find the location of second one. The strange thing that one is showing 5C higher temp as others. Could it be the issue or it's correct? Can some one please check the temp sensors on your Focus RS

collant sensors.jpg
 

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i dont think anyone really had any effective experiences running an oil cooler at the track where they were overheating.

I personally found a big difference in running 30-40min sessions the last time I was out on track where I'd normally overheat on the straight. I only replaced the radiator with the mountune triple pass radiator. others have had much success with that over any oil cooler, even when relocating the oil cooler so it doesn't hog any fresh air from the stock radiator.

An upgraded radiator is important because it does all the cooling for the drivetrain, the engine, differentials, oil etc.
 

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People were having trouble with oil coolers not helping at all (IIRC some people were having more cooling issues). Have you searched the forums to see what people came up with?

People beat on these cars in Utah during the summer and have few issues, so I'm curious as to what's going on with you and overheating in 2 minutes. Sounds like you have an issue with your cooling system.
 
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I did TT style laps at NCCAR in June (hot and humid here) with my car all stock, minus Ti Catback. No heat issues. I would think there is some blockage or a sensor is not reading right. Remember the exhaust manifold is integrated in the head, so depending on where that sensor is several degrees of difference may not be out of normal for this car.
 

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OP, do you still have your undertray? That question would probably fit better if your AWD was shutting down, but just curious. I want to lean towards air in the system as well, though I know you said you've checked it. Is there a "burping" procedure for the coolant system, especially since you replaced yours with a new one?

I also wonder how many people are tracking their cars with Cobb's OTS tunes. Their map notes indicate they are being conservative with their overtemp protection strategy:

v300 - Revamped Tuning Strategy.
  • Temperature safety limits set more conservatively.
    • ECT Throttle Closure at 230*F / 110*C.
    • Oil Temp Throttle Closure at 270*F / 132*C.
 

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it kind of depends on the track. i found that the oil temp would goto 150C (as per stock my dash gauge) even though it isnt a "real measurement" but i would never get the decrease in engine power as coolant temp was ok even after 6laps . After i put in an oil cooler (mishimoto in my case) by the 3rd lap i would get coolant temp increase and power would decrease. my thoughts is that the oil cooler is blowing hot air heating the water. i haven't found a solution to the problem but next step would be a bigger radiator (bigger heat sink)or relocate the oil cooler somewhere else.
on a high speed flowing track it might not be an issue with enough airflow but for shorter twisty circuit , it's where this problem occurs
 

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i dont think anyone really had any effective experiences running an oil cooler at the track where they were overheating.

I personally found a big difference in running 30-40min sessions the last time I was out on track where I'd normally overheat on the straight. I only replaced the radiator with the mountune triple pass radiator. others have had much success with that over any oil cooler, even when relocating the oil cooler so it doesn't hog any fresh air from the stock radiator.

An upgraded radiator is important because it does all the cooling for the drivetrain, the engine, differentials, oil etc.
The triple flow radiator, oil cooler and heat extracted hood have not helped. I am modifying the crash bar to allow more air flow. I’ll report back on results or lack thereof.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OP, do you still have your undertray?
No, I removed it.

I also wonder how many people are tracking their cars with Cobb's OTS tunes.
I believe not many ? Here, in Ukraine, we have about 4-5 FocusRs only and all except mine are without any mods. I chose COBB as we dont have local tuner who knows how to properly tune FocusRs.

Their map notes indicate they are being conservative with their overtemp protection strategy:

v300 - Revamped Tuning Strategy.
  • Temperature safety limits set more conservatively.
    • ECT Throttle Closure at 230*F / 110*C.
    • Oil Temp Throttle Closure at 270*F / 132*C.
Thanks for a good catch!!! Cobb remap shoulb be the problem. I remember I have doing track days before flashing the ecu and there was no problem at all. It's really strange why COBB reduced safety limits.

Can you guys ask your tuners what safety values they used for ECT and Oil Temp? I will try to increase mine to same levels.

ps. this morning I already paid for the mountune radiator, I should check the forums more often to avoid unnecessary purchases :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The triple flow radiator, oil cooler and heat extracted hood have not helped. I am modifying the crash bar to allow more air flow. I’ll report back on results or lack thereof.
It's sad to hear that...
I'm also thinking about oil cooler relocation in case my problem will not be solved.

ps. GolfR Mk7 has two massive additional coolant coolers in the place where we have useless fog lights
 

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No, I removed it.


I believe not many ? Here, in Ukraine, we have about 4-5 FocusRs only and all except mine are without any mods. I chose COBB as we dont have local tuner who knows how to properly tune FocusRs.


Thanks for a good catch!!! Cobb remap shoulb be the problem. I remember I have doing track days before flashing the ecu and there was no problem at all. It's really strange why COBB reduced safety limits.

Can you guys ask your tuners what safety values they used for ECT and Oil Temp? I will try to increase mine to same levels.

ps. this morning I already paid for the mountune radiator, I should check the forums more often to avoid unnecessary purchases :)
Try running with the undertray. I imagine that there's some weird aero stuff (swirling or turbulence) going on between the radiator and engine due to the lack of undertray which is preventing air from passing through the radiator, reducing airflow. If we didn't need it I doubt Ford would have included it, especially with all the NACA duct engineering. Even a flat sheet of aluminum would be better than nothing, but you won't get the PTU or other cooling provided by the ducting.
 

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No, I removed it.
Is there any particular reason why you removed it? The undertray has ducting to help cool the PTU. That ducting and the PTU cooler, that uses the same coolant as the engine, are what keeps the PTU temp in check. I have no temperature data but I imagine if you remove the ducting (or do anything else that limits air to the PTU like aggressive ride height reduction), the front radiator will then have a little more heat to remove.
 

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Hey...
I wanted to chime in here a bit as I just came back from COTA this weekend with 98F ambient and over 100F track temps.

I'm Just running a ETC Race Core FMIC as hardware mods, and I haven't updated my custom e-Tune yet (mountune), so I choose to run Cobb's Stage2 knowing about temp limits. I took this decision knowing that I don't want to overheat my car as I had to drive back from Austin to Dallas on the Focus, so a major damage of that magnitude wouldn't have been fun :)

Even If I knew about this beforehand, I found it crazy stupid how fast the Focus would overheat. I took ALL the following temperatures from the AccessPort which, in the end, is what the ECU takes to make the safety alarms to trigger.

  • I would start from the pit-lane at stable operating temperatures of about 185-187 F in both coolant and oil (+/- a few degrees between both, but I let the car settle for ~10 mins before heading to the track).
  • I did the out-lap very calmly using high-gears and basically letting every car go by me.
  • By the end of the out-lap I managed to not go over 190/195 coolant/oil respectively. Keeping the car cool as max as possible.
  • I would start my fast lap (mind you, I would NOT hold back unless noticed).
  • By the end of the start/finish straight on the uphill to T1, I was already doing 220 coolant (can't remember oil on T1 but creeping up fast). I did ~108mph before the hard braking for the 2nd gear left-hander.
  • I short-shifted T2 quickly from 3rd to 4th to have both hands in the steering through T3/4/5/6 before downshifting to 3rd for T7/8/9. Then quick downhill left hander (flat out) through T10 approaching T11 for an almost 180 degrees left in 2nd gear before reaching 100+mph.
  • By the time I was starting the back straight (longest from the track) I was doing 230F+ and REALLY feel the lack of power.
  • I quickly short-shifted to 5th and then 6th to do the straight at ~4000/4500 RPM and lifting the throttle at a 350m braking mark. That allowed the engine to cool down to 218F coolant and oil was 245F at the end of the straight.
  • I did T12 through T20 (last turn before main straight) without looking temps and without feeling anything in terms of loosing power.
-Started Start/finish straight on 3rd gear (low RPM 3rd or high RPM 2nd are the options, decided on 3rd due to temps), and by the time I shifted 4th gear, again Coolant Over-temp protection low power/low RPM. At this point Oil temps were around 260F (265 was the MAX I saw during the whole day, 3x30mins sessions).

(sorry for the long post, here some COTA Turn References https://i.redd.it/j1gevrf83qy11.png)

Anyway, my point it's not that Cobb's tune would be conservative in temps.... I like those limits actually, but there HAS to be a way to cool the car better. I'm very tempted to try the Mountune's Radiator and compare, and I would love more input from the people here!
 

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Could it be something as simple as a Thermostat issue? I know Livernois Motorsports sells a thermostat upgrade that's recommended with any RS performance tune. Check it out, maybe that will help?


edit

I just read an old post and you must tune the ECU for this thermostat using the Livernois tune.


I've also read that some intercoolers and oil coolers can reduce the airflow to the radiator causing overheating issues....
 

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Hey...
I wanted to chime in here a bit as I just came back from COTA this weekend with 98F ambient and over 100F track temps.

I'm Just running a ETC Race Core FMIC as hardware mods, and I haven't updated my custom e-Tune yet (mountune), so I choose to run Cobb's Stage2 knowing about temp limits. I took this decision knowing that I don't want to overheat my car as I had to drive back from Austin to Dallas on the Focus, so a major damage of that magnitude wouldn't have been fun :)

Even If I knew about this beforehand, I found it crazy stupid how fast the Focus would overheat. I took ALL the following temperatures from the AccessPort which, in the end, is what the ECU takes to make the safety alarms to trigger.

  • I would start from the pit-lane at stable operating temperatures of about 185-187 F in both coolant and oil (+/- a few degrees between both, but I let the car settle for ~10 mins before heading to the track).
  • I did the out-lap very calmly using high-gears and basically letting every car go by me.
  • By the end of the out-lap I managed to not go over 190/195 coolant/oil respectively. Keeping the car cool as max as possible.
  • I would start my fast lap (mind you, I would NOT hold back unless noticed).
  • By the end of the start/finish straight on the uphill to T1, I was already doing 220 coolant (can't remember oil on T1 but creeping up fast). I did ~108mph before the hard braking for the 2nd gear left-hander.
  • I short-shifted T2 quickly from 3rd to 4th to have both hands in the steering through T3/4/5/6 before downshifting to 3rd for T7/8/9. Then quick downhill left hander (flat out) through T10 approaching T11 for an almost 180 degrees left in 2nd gear before reaching 100+mph.
  • By the time I was starting the back straight (longest from the track) I was doing 230F+ and REALLY feel the lack of power.
  • I quickly short-shifted to 5th and then 6th to do the straight at ~4000/4500 RPM and lifting the throttle at a 350m braking mark. That allowed the engine to cool down to 218F coolant and oil was 245F at the end of the straight.
  • I did T12 through T20 (last turn before main straight) without looking temps and without feeling anything in terms of loosing power.
-Started Start/finish straight on 3rd gear (low RPM 3rd or high RPM 2nd are the options, decided on 3rd due to temps), and by the time I shifted 4th gear, again Coolant Over-temp protection low power/low RPM. At this point Oil temps were around 260F (265 was the MAX I saw during the whole day, 3x30mins sessions).

(sorry for the long post, here some COTA Turn References https://i.redd.it/j1gevrf83qy11.png)

Anyway, my point it's not that Cobb's tune would be conservative in temps.... I like those limits actually, but there HAS to be a way to cool the car better. I'm very tempted to try the Mountune's Radiator and compare, and I would love more input from the people here!
I’ve done the radiator, oil cooler, heat-extractor hood, undertray but the car overheats (water and oil temps) in less than 5 miles of track driving. Going to try modifying the grill to get more airflow and a different (160F) thermostat. I love the car, but this issue is annoying.
 

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I’ve done the radiator, oil cooler, heat-extractor hood, undertray but the car overheats (water and oil temps) in less than 5 miles of track driving. Going to try modifying the grill to get more airflow and a different (160F) thermostat. I love the car, but this issue is annoying.
I thought about thermostat as well, will check back again soon after I test the radiator. I understand you have to modify the tune in order to "let the car know" that the new operating temp is lower... Correct?
 

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I thought about thermostat as well, will check back again soon after I test the radiator. I understand you have to modify the tune in order to "let the car know" that the new operating temp is lower... Correct?
Yes I believe that's correct otherwise you will thow a code.

@JerBear in which way did you modify the undertray? Replaced the stock one completely?
 
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