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Brakes I choose this setup AP Racing 6 pots from Graham Goode Racing

340369

You are right once you start it kind of never stops, Hence why I’m seeing how the factory clutch holds up and when it starts to slip I’ll invest £2k into a New clutch and fitting.

But for such a big engine build with Darton liners should be as strong as it possibly can be.
 

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Yes that’s about right atw on Methanol and 487whp on UK V-Power 99ron pump gas.

I used the piper BP285 cam kit and duplex springs to allow power all the way to 7500 mine cuts at 7200

The Ron Henry build on YouTube is worth a watch
Quick question, what motor oil you using? No sarcasm, real question.
 
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Quick question, what motor oil you using? No sarcasm, real question.
It is a good question. I am a bit of an LSPI nerd and had been considering Driven oils for my forged engine. Additive package is tailored for high compression, boosted GDI engines.


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Looks like wrong thread above!

2.0 block with 2.3 crank. Yes call Adam @ TunedPlus or speedperf6rmanc3 in NJ. Closed deck block up to 2.3ltr is the way to go for torque. I guess 2.0 for high HP. Ask them!
 

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It is a good question. I am a bit of an LSPI nerd and had been considering Driven oils for my forged engine. Additive package is tailored for high compression, boosted GDI engines.


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I’ve had two conservatively tuned GTDI engines pop before I understood the effects of the DI fueling characteristics mixing with the oil detergents, especially calcium. It creates such a volatile mixture that a single detonation event collapses forged rods. My “opinion” is that many of the lifted heads, blown head gaskets, etc are caused by the motor oil. If the rods are strong enough, the detonation lifts the head causing the blown gasket.
 

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Mine? 25-29psi
 

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I’ve had two conservatively tuned GTDI engines pop before I understood the effects of the DI fueling characteristics mixing with the oil detergents, especially calcium. It creates such a volatile mixture that a single detonation event collapses forged rods. My “opinion” is that many of the lifted heads, blown head gaskets, etc are caused by the motor oil. If the rods are strong enough, the detonation lifts the head causing the blown gasket.
Your opinion is shared by some very knowledgeable experts, including Lake Speed Jr from Driven Racing Oil. High calcium detergent additive packages correlated to LSPI, headlift, head gasket failure and rods / pistons exiting blocks


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The Foctory OEM parts

Piston Ring lands collapsing and rods bending. Is generally down to a too aggressive map on the torque side.

These factory rods maybe forged but the are budget forging
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
So if I went the 2.0 route, can I run the 2.3 RS rods? I’ve read on the ST forums you need to run Mazdaspeed 3 rods to get the correct compression ratio (9.5:1). Also does anyone have the deck heights for the 2.0 and 2.3 blocks?
 

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And your idea for a solution?
For now, oils that are SN PLUS have been updated to reduce the effects causing LSPI. The API will release a new designation, SP, sometime later this year. The problem remains that the initial SP viscosities will not be higher than a 30 weight. Honestly, I'm running 5w30 SN PLUS in all my door slammers right now. Two are DI turbocharged, but the Raptor has Direct and Port injection, so it isn't really affected. The Direct ONLY engines are the most vulnerable.
 

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For now, oils that are SN PLUS have been updated to reduce the effects causing LSPI. The API will release a new designation, SP, sometime later this year. The problem remains that the initial SP viscosities will not be higher than a 30 weight. Honestly, I'm running 5w30 SN PLUS in all my door slammers right now. Two are DI turbocharged, but the Raptor has Direct and Port injection, so it isn't really affected. The Direct ONLY engines are the most vulnerable.
What does that mean concerning the Unicorn Blood that is Motorcraft 5W-50 with the special Ford Certifications? Anybody have any knowledge on it's additive package and the whole LSPI concern?

I'm sitting at 32k on a stock motor. I want to tune like I did my ST and frankly I keep waiting because of the head gasket issue and the dealer shenanigans getting it repaired. I've resigned myself that at some point the motor is going to POP and I'll be forced to build either a sleeved 2.3 or 2.0 block, but I'd like to push that off as long as possible.
 

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TBH this is the point I have gotten to; namely to dig into the additive packages in the Motorcraft 5W-50 and Castrol Edge 0W-40 oils. My tech has spoke to his lubricant dudes and they maintain that the factory approved oil (the Castrol here in Australia) is fine for all stock and built 2.3 Ecoboost; that is likely the case however the nerd in me wants to know more. The SN+ oils certainly are better engineered for GDI engines.


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TBH this is the point I have gotten to; namely to dig into the additive packages in the Motorcraft 5W-50 and Castrol Edge 0W-40 oils. My tech has spoke to his lubricant dudes and they maintain that the factory approved oil (the Castrol here in Australia) is fine for all stock and built 2.3 Ecoboost; that is likely the case however the nerd in me wants to know more. The SN+ oils certainly are better engineered for GDI engines.


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I think it's important to consider that without discounting the technical advantages and specifics of SN+ oil all the information out there is pretty much from oil companies. I'm sure there is a benefit for GDI engines from using SN+ but I wouldn't be losing too much sleep over using a non SN+ oil in the mean time. Its to the oil companies advantage to ratchet up the hype about any advancement in technology which I dont discount, its more a matter of proportion.
The best way to prevent LSPI is not to get into the throttle too hard at low revs high load.

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Yep; convinced that while LSPI might be the event that kills so many RS engines, lugging and a lack of sufficient oil changes are the likely causes in many instances. Owners rarely admit to either of course


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