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Discussion Starter #1
I have been running the DSC controller with the Tractive suspension setup on my RS now for about a year. Very happy with the ride quality. I am currently set at stock suspension height with stock wheels and MPS4 tires in 235’s. My tires are about ready to be replaced again. I am interested in going to a lighter weight 18” wheel, preferably wider at 8.5 or 9” width. Would like to run Bridgestone RE71R tires in a 255 for AX and track use. Anyone running Tractive setup also running wider wheels and tires? If so, what are you running and did you have any fitmemt issues?

Thanks.


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I ran 19's at 8.5" and had no issues. 245 Contiforce Contacts and also with R888R's
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Wiltocking. Anyone else with Tractive setup running wider wheels/tires than stock? I am looking at Enkei RPF1 rims in 18X9 with 255’s and concerned about offset.


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I have the Tractive setup but I'm running 235s on an 18x8 +45. When I had stock suspension I ran 255s on the same rim and didn't have fitment issues. The Tractive kit creates more space at the front struts since it's a much smaller spring so you should be ok. Especially on the RPF1 where the +35 offset creates even more clearance than OEM.
 

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Which Tractive setup are you guys using? Anyone get the 3-way? And how much for the units and then installation?

I have the KW Variant 3s and love them. The car has so much grip, so I want to know if these are even an option.

Would love to know your opinions especially if you track the car.

And now for some eye candy :)

338498
 

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Beautiful car. Makes me wish I'd taken the Nitrous Blue on the lot, rather than the Stealth Grey I ordered. Louvered hood buying anything, or just looks?
 

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@maschoff
I have the original launch Tractive / DSC set up and its great. I do track days for fun but not auto cross or any competition racing.
I guess the new Full Race version being - 3 way, rose jointed and with an external canister and active controller would be unstoppable.
 

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Which Tractive setup are you guys using? Anyone get the 3-way? And how much for the units and then installation?

I have the KW Variant 3s and love them. The car has so much grip, so I want to know if these are even an option.

Would love to know your opinions especially if you track the car.

And now for some eye candy :)

View attachment 338498
We're waiting for feedback from 3-way Tractive installs!

I have the 1st gen DSC/Tractive with other suspension mods and am very happy with my setup. Lots of HPDE tracking

Possible under spec'd power supply chip on the controllers for the RS. Unaddressed ongoing issue.

That's life with a Gen 1, limited run, discontinued vehicle I guess . . .
 

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I have the Tractive setup but I'm running 235s on an 18x8 +45. When I had stock suspension I ran 255s on the same rim and didn't have fitment issues. The Tractive kit creates more space at the front struts since it's a much smaller spring so you should be ok. Especially on the RPF1 where the +35 offset creates even more clearance than OEM.
I'm buying the tractive setup and going to use 18 with 45 profile for road use on rough roads and keep the 19 setup for track. Wondering if you have any comment on how comfortable and compliant the dsc and tractive setup is with this rim and profile combo when setup for comfort, and also what it was like when setup for close to track. What is it like. Thanks for comments. James
 

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I'm buying the tractive setup and going to use 18 with 45 profile for road use on rough roads and keep the 19 setup for track. Wondering if you have any comment on how comfortable and compliant the dsc and tractive setup is with this rim and profile combo when setup for comfort, and also what it was like when setup for close to track. What is it like. Thanks for comments. James
Hey James,
I've not run a 45 profile but the taller tire you're going with should equate to a smoother ride compared to the factory 35 profile. This will obviously be a taller tire, all else equal, so keep that in mind.

I rode on the factory 235/35/19 tires to a racing event and if you have the shocks set at or nearly at full soft the ride is really spectacular. The suspension really absorbs a lot of the road undulations, resulting in a less exhausting ride. The high speed damping is really good here.

With the same tire setup as above, I found that on the supplied configuration for Track mode on a course that is not completely smooth, the suspension tends to skip around. Not unlike the factory race shock mode. This is easily remedied by dialing them down a bit though. Aside from that, the shocks perform really well on course to reduce body roll/dive and provide better damping than the stock shocks. I've created my own configuration for Track mode that's been used by both me and another user on here with good results. Let me know if you get to that point and want to play around.
 

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I'm buying the tractive setup and going to use 18 with 45 profile for road use on rough roads and keep the 19 setup for track. Wondering if you have any comment on how comfortable and compliant the dsc and tractive setup is with this rim and profile combo when setup for comfort, and also what it was like when setup for close to track. What is it like. Thanks for comments. James
I run the factory winter set (225/40R18) and summer set (235/35R19) and can feel the difference when switching as the winters are a little more comfortable on rough roads. With the Tractive setup the ride is so much better than stock on either set I wouldn't go out and buy new wheels before installing the new suspension if I were you unless you already have dedicated track tires on the 19s. You may find that the car rides fine on 19s for your tastes.
 

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Thanks
Hey James,
I've not run a 45 profile but the taller tire you're going with should equate to a smoother ride compared to the factory 35 profile. This will obviously be a taller tire, all else equal, so keep that in mind.

I rode on the factory 235/35/19 tires to a racing event and if you have the shocks set at or nearly at full soft the ride is really spectacular. The suspension really absorbs a lot of the road undulations, resulting in a less exhausting ride. The high speed damping is really good here.

With the same tire setup as above, I found that on the supplied configuration for Track mode on a course that is not completely smooth, the suspension tends to skip around. Not unlike the factory race shock mode. This is easily remedied by dialing them down a bit though. Aside from that, the shocks perform really well on course to reduce body roll/dive and provide better damping than the stock shocks. I've created my own configuration for Track mode that's been used by both me and another user on here with good results. Let me know if you get to that point and want to play around.
Thanks to both you and phillofoc. I might take up your offer of a differing configuration.

I live in Canberra which really is the bush capital and kangaroos really are everywhere. The rs is stealth gray and trying to keep it as unobtrusive as possible,

What I am doing is setting up the RS for gravel roads and snow gravel in our snowy mountains. I ski each weekend. These ŕoads can be rough and have unexpected washout etc. Even our tarmac roads can get very technical and also broken on occasion. I'm putting a skid plate and rally guard on and want to raise clearance to about that of an ST. I can raise the tractive shocks at front by .75cm and the 45 tyres on 18 rims do the rest to raise the height to ST levels. Can't raise the back above standard. Don't have my calcs with me but I think it gives me a cm rise or so. I need the 45 profile as pinched sidewalls are a nightmare in the bush. I also have to figure out how to take a full sized spare and make sure it is securely located. Am also putting lazer lights on from the UK both for technical driving and to watch out for kangaroos, emus, wombats, sheep and cattle. It can get like a video game in the rare lush areas around rivers.

When I go back to the 19s with 35 profile this takes me back to standard height rear and plus .75 front, meaining less rake. May also affect the zero downforce, no lift, thing but i have no idea by how much. TT suspension in australia are fitting, tuning and corner weighting the suspension and they say they can dial it in so the slightly higher front is no different.

I just bought the car and have only had one decent drive on technical tarmac. Set it to race with soft suspension and esc off. Amazing handling and drive out of corners as standard. Drove at about 5 tenths.

I have a bit of experience as I won a state rally championship in a laser tx3 turbo 4wd. Now there was a hard car to drive. Turbo lag, standard gearbox, had a lsd but couldn't afford close ratio, so with death gaps in the middle, 50 50 locked centre diff, so no handbrake only pendulum turns into hairpin which didnt always work.... which means straight on, and top speed of 250km/hr which we used as it was a competitive advantage. Looking back we must have been mad. Surprised I've lived to 63 sometimes.

Anyway, I am looking to build an rs which can do small club events, dirt khanacrosses and motorkhanas, the odd hill climb and track day, be pretty anywhere on rough Australian roads, and comfortable as a DD. Brings up the point I need a drift handle thingy to get it to handbrake and I think factory one only for lhd.

This is why I went dsc and tractive. It gives me the best variability. I might get a minor tune to see how much of the nanny I can turn off too and make it a bit more responsive. I'm happy with the power.

Anyway, a long post and thanks for your help.
 

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Thanks

Thanks to both you and phillofoc. I might take up your offer of a differing configuration.

I live in Canberra which really is the bush capital and kangaroos really are everywhere. The rs is stealth gray and trying to keep it as unobtrusive as possible,

What I am doing is setting up the RS for gravel roads and snow gravel in our snowy mountains. I ski each weekend. These ŕoads can be rough and have unexpected washout etc. Even our tarmac roads can get very technical and also broken on occasion. I'm putting a skid plate and rally guard on and want to raise clearance to about that of an ST. I can raise the tractive shocks at front by .75cm and the 45 tyres on 18 rims do the rest to raise the height to ST levels. Can't raise the back above standard. Don't have my calcs with me but I think it gives me a cm rise or so. I need the 45 profile as pinched sidewalls are a nightmare in the bush. I also have to figure out how to take a full sized spare and make sure it is securely located. Am also putting lazer lights on from the UK both for technical driving and to watch out for kangaroos, emus, wombats, sheep and cattle. It can get like a video game in the rare lush areas around rivers.

When I go back to the 19s with 35 profile this takes me back to standard height rear and plus .75 front, meaining less rake. May also affect the zero downforce, no lift, thing but i have no idea by how much. TT suspension in australia are fitting, tuning and corner weighting the suspension and they say they can dial it in so the slightly higher front is no different.

I just bought the car and have only had one decent drive on technical tarmac. Set it to race with soft suspension and esc off. Amazing handling and drive out of corners as standard. Drove at about 5 tenths.

I have a bit of experience as I won a state rally championship in a laser tx3 turbo 4wd. Now there was a hard car to drive. Turbo lag, standard gearbox, had a lsd but couldn't afford close ratio, so with death gaps in the middle, 50 50 locked centre diff, so no handbrake only pendulum turns into hairpin which didnt always work.... which means straight on, and top speed of 250km/hr which we used as it was a competitive advantage. Looking back we must have been mad. Surprised I've lived to 63 sometimes.

Anyway, I am looking to build an rs which can do small club events, dirt khanacrosses and motorkhanas, the odd hill climb and track day, be pretty anywhere on rough Australian roads, and comfortable as a DD. Brings up the point I need a drift handle thingy to get it to handbrake and I think factory one only for lhd.

This is why I went dsc and tractive. It gives me the best variability. I might get a minor tune to see how much of the nanny I can turn off too and make it a bit more responsive. I'm happy with the power.

Anyway, a long post and thanks for your help.
Brilliant!

Can't wait for updates

You may get higher than stock for the rear with Tractive. As well, I bet you'll come up with a solution to protect the shock wiring on the front - they exit the bottom of the shocks.

The nannies calmed down significantly once I upgraded the suspension. Go figure . . .

My Stratified tune broadened the power range, and changed overboost from unpredictable to accessible. Super happy!
 

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Thanks

Thanks to both you and phillofoc. I might take up your offer of a differing configuration.

I live in Canberra which really is the bush capital and kangaroos really are everywhere. The rs is stealth gray and trying to keep it as unobtrusive as possible,

What I am doing is setting up the RS for gravel roads and snow gravel in our snowy mountains. I ski each weekend. These ŕoads can be rough and have unexpected washout etc. Even our tarmac roads can get very technical and also broken on occasion. I'm putting a skid plate and rally guard on and want to raise clearance to about that of an ST. I can raise the tractive shocks at front by .75cm and the 45 tyres on 18 rims do the rest to raise the height to ST levels. Can't raise the back above standard. Don't have my calcs with me but I think it gives me a cm rise or so. I need the 45 profile as pinched sidewalls are a nightmare in the bush. I also have to figure out how to take a full sized spare and make sure it is securely located. Am also putting lazer lights on from the UK both for technical driving and to watch out for kangaroos, emus, wombats, sheep and cattle. It can get like a video game in the rare lush areas around rivers.

When I go back to the 19s with 35 profile this takes me back to standard height rear and plus .75 front, meaining less rake. May also affect the zero downforce, no lift, thing but i have no idea by how much. TT suspension in australia are fitting, tuning and corner weighting the suspension and they say they can dial it in so the slightly higher front is no different.

I just bought the car and have only had one decent drive on technical tarmac. Set it to race with soft suspension and esc off. Amazing handling and drive out of corners as standard. Drove at about 5 tenths.

I have a bit of experience as I won a state rally championship in a laser tx3 turbo 4wd. Now there was a hard car to drive. Turbo lag, standard gearbox, had a lsd but couldn't afford close ratio, so with death gaps in the middle, 50 50 locked centre diff, so no handbrake only pendulum turns into hairpin which didnt always work.... which means straight on, and top speed of 250km/hr which we used as it was a competitive advantage. Looking back we must have been mad. Surprised I've lived to 63 sometimes.

Anyway, I am looking to build an rs which can do small club events, dirt khanacrosses and motorkhanas, the odd hill climb and track day, be pretty anywhere on rough Australian roads, and comfortable as a DD. Brings up the point I need a drift handle thingy to get it to handbrake and I think factory one only for lhd.

This is why I went dsc and tractive. It gives me the best variability. I might get a minor tune to see how much of the nanny I can turn off too and make it a bit more responsive. I'm happy with the power.

Anyway, a long post and thanks for your help.
Consider reviewing the adventures of @320icar in raising the RS. IIRC he changed out the front brakes to fit smaller wheels with a larger sidewall. I don't think that he gained much ground clearance, but he is running closer to the tire size that you're considering.

For your reading pleasure: Lifting the RS

and

 

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Thanks

Thanks to both you and phillofoc. I might take up your offer of a differing configuration.

I live in Canberra which really is the bush capital and kangaroos really are everywhere. The rs is stealth gray and trying to keep it as unobtrusive as possible,

What I am doing is setting up the RS for gravel roads and snow gravel in our snowy mountains. I ski each weekend. These ŕoads can be rough and have unexpected washout etc. Even our tarmac roads can get very technical and also broken on occasion. I'm putting a skid plate and rally guard on and want to raise clearance to about that of an ST. I can raise the tractive shocks at front by .75cm and the 45 tyres on 18 rims do the rest to raise the height to ST levels. Can't raise the back above standard. Don't have my calcs with me but I think it gives me a cm rise or so. I need the 45 profile as pinched sidewalls are a nightmare in the bush. I also have to figure out how to take a full sized spare and make sure it is securely located. Am also putting lazer lights on from the UK both for technical driving and to watch out for kangaroos, emus, wombats, sheep and cattle. It can get like a video game in the rare lush areas around rivers.

When I go back to the 19s with 35 profile this takes me back to standard height rear and plus .75 front, meaining less rake. May also affect the zero downforce, no lift, thing but i have no idea by how much. TT suspension in australia are fitting, tuning and corner weighting the suspension and they say they can dial it in so the slightly higher front is no different.

I just bought the car and have only had one decent drive on technical tarmac. Set it to race with soft suspension and esc off. Amazing handling and drive out of corners as standard. Drove at about 5 tenths.

I have a bit of experience as I won a state rally championship in a laser tx3 turbo 4wd. Now there was a hard car to drive. Turbo lag, standard gearbox, had a lsd but couldn't afford close ratio, so with death gaps in the middle, 50 50 locked centre diff, so no handbrake only pendulum turns into hairpin which didnt always work.... which means straight on, and top speed of 250km/hr which we used as it was a competitive advantage. Looking back we must have been mad. Surprised I've lived to 63 sometimes.

Anyway, I am looking to build an rs which can do small club events, dirt khanacrosses and motorkhanas, the odd hill climb and track day, be pretty anywhere on rough Australian roads, and comfortable as a DD. Brings up the point I need a drift handle thingy to get it to handbrake and I think factory one only for lhd.

This is why I went dsc and tractive. It gives me the best variability. I might get a minor tune to see how much of the nanny I can turn off too and make it a bit more responsive. I'm happy with the power.

Anyway, a long post and thanks for your help.
How did you get a stealth grey car here in Australia?
 

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How did you get a stealth grey car here in Australia?
Actually I don't think I did. I just bought it second hand. Having looked up colours it is most likely magnetic gray. When I went looking for an rs I didn't mind what colour I got, it was all about condition and price.
 

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For reference I’m about 3” over stock ground clearance.
Had a read of what you are doing, it looks great. I'm only aiming for about up an inch as it reflects the balance of driving I do. Interested in your rallycross experience. We call it either khanacross or rallysprint and reserve rallycross for closed circuit multi car racing on mix of tarmac and dirt.

Rally and skid plates plus mudflaps I'm getting but looks like there are more underbody weaknesses. Can you remind me what else fell off? Thanks
 

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I’ve had....
  • the front under plastic protecting the intercooler rip off
  • the factory rat fur undertray rip off
  • the rat fur style factory protection that run lengthways under the body of the car (one on each side) rip off. Those protect fuel/brake lines.
  • rear diffuser has ripped off enough times I fully run without it now
 
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