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DSC/Tractive Programming
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Sounds likely. That’s the likely test strategy to start at left front, left rear, right rear, right front. The controller issue would likely be on the power input side of the board.
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More likely would be power flux in the RS. You could install a volt meter on the power wires and monitor while driving.
What exhaust you running? I’ve seen exhaust noise cause wiring connection problems. The noise is simply acoustic vibrations.
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I’m running the AWS Touring cat back exhaust which I love. Hadn’t considered a noise harmonic as a possible cause to the suspension malfunction?
I am out of town but have the car on a trickle charger. Am very interested to see if the original (4.5 year old) battery could be the problem. Will update next week on whether this solves the problem.
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I am out of town but have the car on a trickle charger. Am very interested to see if the original (4.5 year old) battery could be the problem. Will update next week on whether this solves the problem.
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Ok just a quick update on my ongoing “full stiff” Trqctive issue. Since I last wrote I have replaced the original 4.5 year old battery about 2-3 weeks ago. Since that time I have only had one instance of FS that was easily corrected by resetting the control board. That was when the car was operating in the softest setting (Normal mode).
Thinking back, my issues with FS have all seemed to occur in Normal mode and not when I am in Sport or Track. Between the new battery and operating the vehicle in the Sport suspension setting have seemed to solve the issue. I seem to recall reading about others having the same negative experience when operating their car in the Normal suspension mode (rather than Sport or Track). I do like to use Normal mode for just cruising as the roads in my area are not the best. Should I consider modifying the Normal program or has someone already solved this? Thanks.
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Thinking back, my issues with FS have all seemed to occur in Normal mode and not when I am in Sport or Track. Between the new battery and operating the vehicle in the Sport suspension setting have seemed to solve the issue. I seem to recall reading about others having the same negative experience when operating their car in the Normal suspension mode (rather than Sport or Track). I do like to use Normal mode for just cruising as the roads in my area are not the best. Should I consider modifying the Normal program or has someone already solved this? Thanks.
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I have a Front Left (FL) fault.
I ordered the upgraded wires and plugs as I think Nickulu told me about these and all have now been fitted.
Items changed
Connector Plugs from damper to attach to the Extension piece, new extension now connects to the OEM loom plug via a new Connector plug.
So did all the wiring changes fired up the laptop and “I” investigated the DSC controller and a Front Left fault still their.
I then plugged in the FL damper into the Front Right (FR) damper connector and reset the laptop and ignition and “I” investigated the system again expecting two faults but only got one a FL fault which ruled out a FL damper issue as the FL was now plugged into the FR wiring
Anyone have any ideas ???
DeanHart - How did you find out this issue please
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Are you resetting the board before checking diagnostics each time? I remember testing the diagnostics functions a while back and found that you have to reset the board each time from the software, prior to using the diagnostics. Otherwise the results were not always accurate.
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Have you tried plugging in an OEM damper to listen for the solenoid kicking in when resetting the board? I've found the controller is easily confused as to what corner actually has the fault. One time when I had a wiring issue, I could move around the error by just resetting the board. The fix was to reseat all connectors and pull the green caps off of the rears.
Removing the paint for the earth point near the tail light might have helped me get a better connection, too. We're running up to 8 Amps through the controller to the corners just for the dampers when the spec by Ford is 2 Amps continuous.
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That probably explains why the box gets hot 8amps is some pull.
I’ve pulled the fuse many times now unplugged the DSC controller many times now disconnected the battery yep many times now reflashed the controller with different maps lol many times now. Tested the wiring with a telecoms tone tester and a multi meter and alls ok end to end tested the LF damper alls good
So it’s defo looking like a DSC box replacement. Weekend trying my box on another car flashed with Ford maps.
Everytime the same fault FL never changed in about 40 different test unplugging firm ware install re flashing etc
I’ve pulled the fuse many times now unplugged the DSC controller many times now disconnected the battery yep many times now reflashed the controller with different maps lol many times now. Tested the wiring with a telecoms tone tester and a multi meter and alls ok end to end tested the LF damper alls good
So it’s defo looking like a DSC box replacement. Weekend trying my box on another car flashed with Ford maps.
Everytime the same fault FL never changed in about 40 different test unplugging firm ware install re flashing etc
On my controller LF was actually LR and vise versa. Jeremy confirmed that this is the case in some controllers.
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2017 NB Focus RS; RS2, Sunroof, FP exhaust, Mountune IC, DSC Sport suspension, Livernois tune.
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I've been having a bout of full stiff as well, lately. Fortunately, I live near DSC sport, so they're taking a look. They've replace the connector for the LF shock. (It was shown as open during diags.) Worked fine for a couple of hours, and then the RF went bad. I'll have them replace that one next. (Controller was already replaced. Still having the problem.)
I'll trickle change my battery (replacement Optima) just to see if that helps. (I notice that the auto stop/start doesn't work if the battery isn't really stout.)
I'll trickle change my battery (replacement Optima) just to see if that helps. (I notice that the auto stop/start doesn't work if the battery isn't really stout.)
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549 Posts
Bad box.
To get an accurate fault code output: when an occurrence happens (full stiff) keep the car running and output the log. This means driving with the laptop hooked up. Fun.
Corvette had early DSC boxes with weak power supplies, and very similar symptoms to ours.
On my third DSC controller, I'm golden. Until then, troubleshooting hell.
A super question is why the service / support for the RS is so weak . . .
To get an accurate fault code output: when an occurrence happens (full stiff) keep the car running and output the log. This means driving with the laptop hooked up. Fun.
Corvette had early DSC boxes with weak power supplies, and very similar symptoms to ours.
On my third DSC controller, I'm golden. Until then, troubleshooting hell.
A super question is why the service / support for the RS is so weak . . .
Maybe just not enough of us? We have that cheapest kit of all, and I imagine there are far more Porsches running the setup than us. Unfortunate that it's the way it is. Would be cool to see Tractive+DSC expand to more lines - like say Subie STis. This could create more knowledge across multiple communities thus improving it for everyone. Reactive suspensions is where it's at
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I saw that... doesn't interface with the can buss as far as I can see.... totally stand alone. I don't think that's better.
According to this thread, where [email protected] Racing (aka DSC? I think they are one and the same) chimes in to say that Tractive has always had a controller. The biggest difference is that DSC is pre-configured using the software known to this community, and Tractive uses a little screen to allow the user to calibrate the controller.
Side-note, Tom is who I mostly dealt with for DSC and install (the latter done by TPC Racing?). Super-friendly dude!
Tractive Suspension Kit - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
993 Forum - Tractive Suspension Kit - Has anyone installed the tractive suspension on a 993 chassis? I was considering this one: https://tractivesuspension.com/product/stand-alone-electronically-adjustable-shocks-with-external-compression-adjustment-27/ I got in touch with them and they referred...
rennlist.com
Side-note, Tom is who I mostly dealt with for DSC and install (the latter done by TPC Racing?). Super-friendly dude!
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From what I can tell, the Tractive control unit more so allows you to make manual adjustments from in the car, and it allows you to save a few configurations to memory. See video below around 1:49 mark.
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would the fortune controller be similar to the tractive controller?
https://fortune-auto.com/coilovers/remotedampercontroller/
To the DSC folks here:
- Over-all, minus the issues people are having above, is it worth it for daily driving and track use?
- Would the DSC controller work with other coilover kits? i.e. KW DDCs, fortune-auto 500s, 510s, PRO 2-way or any of the BC Racing coilovers?
- I'm guessing the answer is no for the BC Racing and fortune-auto coilovers since I don't see any indicator that they are active. The KW one's are active and supposedly plug and play to the OEM system, but maybe would/could be better with the DSC controller, if it works with them.
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