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I remember a discussion a while ago on maximum safe current from dsc controller with tractive suspension. Got a reply from Jeremy martien at dsc. He says 2000 ma is max soft setting.
Yeah, I run my softest comfort setting at 1900 mA. Sport at 1600 mA and Track at 1400 mA.

Did you ever do further development on brake settings? Currently I'm commanding 1000 mA at max brake pressure for 1 second before transitioning into the G table. I feel this allows a bit better weight shift to the front to help grip during braking. Unfortunately, it'll be next year before any track testing.
 

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I’ve done a bit more experimenting, mostly on the normal mode to tune the comfort and low to mid speed composure over the crappy UK B roads. Rather than set the first and last block in the shock table, I set the first 4 or 5 blocks to same value, around 1900 front. Has the effect of holding the dampers soft for a bit longer, keeping a bit more compliance until you have more speed on. Probably other ways to do it, but this method is quick and easy.

Did a little of the same on sport mode but run the rear firmer in respect to the front, as that seems to promote turn in over comfort.

Overall it’s a pretty awesome set up, car is both comfortable and rides as good as any stock normal car, bearing in mind it on 19”s with little side wall flex. Then press on it firms up and controls roll and balance so well, cake and eat it time....
 

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Nice, at least you have those B roads to drive. I'm in NYC and I can get out but the environment never seems as cool as it looks in England. Thx for that info.
 

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Uploading the latest DSC map I've been refining since the weather got nice this year. Again, I'm nobody special, just someone who likes experimenting with and tweaking this DSC system. Ultimately put this new map it though it's paces on a recent 2,500 mile road trip that we completed on 6/13 and I made a few final changes after that trip to Normal mode.

This one includes a revised Normal mode that follows the same spirit of my past "Grand Touring" maps but is stiffer overall and is oriented more towards daily driving rather than long haul driving. I think the Grand Touring map is decent for long, straight highways but actually underdamped for daily driving.

It also includes a Sport mode that is built off my Normal map but stiffens more quickly and is stiffer overall at its base. It's still plenty street-able but there is a noticeable change when switching over from Normal. You can see it by just visually comparing the two maps below. I really like it on sweeping on-ramps.

Both Normal and Sport use the absolute shock calibration table. Track mode is left unchanged from the DSC issued map circa March 16th 2020.

Here is what's inside Normal 20210615:
353313



And here is Sport 20210503:
353314
 

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Just a side note I’ve become aware that the DSC controller doesn’t like a low voltage battery, it seems to set to full stiff with no error codes.
So if your controller starts to play up check your battery voltage and like me your battery maybe on its way out
 

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Just a side note I’ve become aware that the DSC controller doesn’t like a low voltage battery, it seems to set to full stiff with no error codes.
So if your controller starts to play up check your battery voltage and like me your battery maybe on its way out
Second this. I have had very few issues since I started leaving my car on a charger when not being driven for more than a day or two. If your controller goes full stiff and you can't fix it due to power issues, pull the fuse for a few seconds then put it back in to reset it.
 

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That’s interesting. I have been chasing random “full stiff” issues with my DSC + Tractive system. What fuse are you pulling to reset the controller?


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If like a UK car; it’s the fuse box underneath the passenger glove box and it’s the one that’s also controls cruise control, petrol gauge and dampers.
 

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That’s interesting. I have been chasing random “full stiff” issues with my DSC + Tractive system. What fuse are you pulling to reset the controller?


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I wrote some troubleshooting steps earlier in the thread:

I made a switch using an add-a-fuse wired into itself. Definitely worth the effort.
 

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Still having regular.occurring issues with Tractive suspension going.into full.stiff. if I leave the car on and run codes without resetting board I get the dreaded LR open. Once I reset the board it clears the codes. I have checked all connections at each corner multiple times. I now suspect the issue is connectivity at the controller or the controller itself. I have tried emailing and calling DSC but haven't had any recent success.

I plan on installing a switch as Philofoc describes above, but really looking for a solution that resolves the problem completely. Has anyone found a working solution to.the LR open issue? Thanks.
 

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Still having regular.occurring issues with Tractive suspension going.into full.stiff. if I leave the car on and run codes without resetting board I get the dreaded LR open. Once I reset the board it clears the codes. I have checked all connections at each corner multiple times. I now suspect the issue is connectivity at the controller or the controller itself. I have tried emailing and calling DSC but haven't had any recent success.

I plan on installing a switch as Philofoc describes above, but really looking for a solution that resolves the problem completely. Has anyone found a working solution to.the LR open issue? Thanks.
How old is your car battery? The DSC box is more sensitive to an old/dying battery than the rest of the computers in the car.
 

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Battery is original. Car is 4.5 years old. I will get it checked next service visit and possibly get a trickle charger if not ready for replacement.


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I would start there. These cars and the DSC don't tolerate bad batteries well. You can try a good charger overnight once or twice a week to see if the problem goes away.

I used the guide written by @Hank to install a charger port in the wheel well. My front is lifted 1/2 inch so there's plenty of room for me to fit the plug while the car is parked.


Make sure that you get a good charger that works with AGM batteries. I use the same BatteryMINDer as shown in the guide.
 
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Thanks for the tips. I have the car in my trickle charger now while I am out of town. Plan to replace battery later this month when I bring car in for brake service. Will report back if this solves problem.


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Thanks for the tips. I have the car in my trickle charger now while I am out of town. Plan to replace battery later this month when I bring car in for brake service. Will report back if this solves problem.


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Perfect time to upgrade to a lightweight Shorai, drop 40lbs+ from the engine bay and clears up a LOT of space to work. I can do the shift line adjustment without removing anything.
 
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Perfect time to upgrade to a lightweight Shorai, drop 40lbs+ from the engine bay and clears up a LOT of space to work. I can do the shift line adjustment without removing anything.
Do lightweight batteries function as well as, and last as long as the standard size?
 

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Do lightweight batteries function as well as, and last as long as the standard size?
Yes, if you buy the appropriate size Antigravity.com battery. They are expensive but have all the technology you would expect for the price.
 
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Do lightweight batteries function as well as, and last as long as the standard size?
I've had it for at least 2 years now with no issues. Longest I have gone without driving it is around 4 days, and never put a tender on it. My AS/S with the stock baterry stopped working within like a year, so it already seems like this battery is lasting longer than the stock beast.
 
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