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It was the shop, actually a race engineering shop so well up on things. Tractive however was involved. It was all a bit painful to be frank. Main point was who was responsible for the failure. All sorted now I think but I await the refitting of the suspension with lifting spacers.
 

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Hi all,

An update on tractive and some challenges
Sorry to hear that. I'm surprised that Tractive didn't include a warning on this, maybe they didn't expect that people would raise their car vs lower.

I'm running about 1/2 higher than stock in the front, which has me slightly worried. No issues after 10k-ish miles and a year and a half, well other than the full stuff issues discussed at length.
 

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Sorry to hear that. I'm surprised that Tractive didn't include a warning on this, maybe they didn't expect that people would raise their car vs lower.

I'm running about 1/2 higher than stock in the front, which has me slightly worried. No issues after 10k-ish miles and a year and a half, well other than the full stuff issues discussed at length.
1/2" higher is about what DSC recommends in their setup of the front struts. At least that's what I observed when I set them up and measured the height. So if that's out of range, shame on them.
 

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Shortly my engineering shop will have measured bearing locations and determined safe amount shocks can be raised. I'll let you know once this is done. These guys know their stuff so this should be a definitive answer.

The shop ended up replacing all of the strut bushes, some o-rings and some other small parts. They hand made the piston bands (the seal that goes around the piston and wipes on the chrome tube). They are perfect fit to give excellent sealing (the production seals are about 2mm shorter to allow for fast assembly. The RF damper oil was black, not from heat but from the wear of the piston band so it's likely that the piston was sliding at a slight angle because it was so far in droop.
 

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That's really interesting. I've not seen it. In particular the rear spring perch height. I wonder if my spring length rear was different as standard height was set at 9 turns from fully extended out .

Also good to see standard height setting at front. I'll be checking on this. Thanks
 

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That's really interesting. I've not seen it. In particular the rear spring perch height. I wonder if my spring length rear was different as standard height was set at 9 turns from fully extended out .

Also good to see standard height setting at front. I'll be checking on this. Thanks
The rear spring length has changed since the kit was initially released. I believe the rear spring listed there and recommended adjustment refers to the original slightly taller rear spring.
 

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I've recently finished up a big road trip with the RS and DSC/Tractive setup. A little over 5,100 miles in 18 days covering 10 states. Roads covered were interstates, lots of 2 lane, some twisty roads and some pretty rough dirt roads with frost heaves and washboard. Wanted to add a few short thoughts after putting the DSC/Tractive set through its paces:
  1. First comment - it's a great improvement to the car. I loved being able to cruise 80 mph interstates and then take off-ramps at speed without having to adjust the suspension. The controller took care of that for me on the fly.
  2. The biggest improvement we felt was out on the open road where we spent 70% of the time. Zero pogo, plus better composure from uneven asphalt.
  3. I had zero electronic issues.
  4. The top nut on the front left damper loosened a bit during the final 3 days. It was the nut that ties the damper to the top hat. It didn't cause any issues other than a little "clunk" when the suspension dropped quickly, as when hitting a large expansion joint. That was likely on me during install. I checked the nut on the other side and it was fairly tight but took a little torque to get it to the specified 26 ft-lb torque setting. I added high-strength thread locker to them this time, but something to watch for.
  5. The Tractive setup may have saved us from pinch-flats in the middle of nowhere. There was road construction on a two-lane in WY and where they were laying a new asphalt layer. Instead of a smoothed transition from the missing asphalt to the old road deck it was instead a 90 degree sharp edge about 2" tall. We hit it HARD at 55 mph and immediately pulled over expecting bent wheels and flats. To our great surprise there were no signs of damage.
  6. Overall satisfied customer here.
Here is the final "Touring" program I finalized for the trip and was very pleased with and the .txt file that you can convert back to .pdts if interested in trying.
It uses 90% of the DSC supplied map at the core of the G map and feathers it out to 100% of their map at the edges for increase comfort when under low G conditions.
In it only the Normal mode is modified.
345798
 

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Glad to hear you are enjoying the setup, especially a setup you've dialed in a bit.

  1. The top nut on the front left damper loosened a bit during the final 3 days. It was the nut that ties the damper to the top hat. It didn't cause any issues other than a little "clunk" when the suspension dropped quickly, as when hitting a large expansion joint. That was likely on me during install. I checked the nut on the other side and it was fairly tight but took a little torque to get it to the specified 26 ft-lb torque setting. I added high-strength thread locker to them this time, but something to watch for
Pretty sure you are referencing the torque spec for the 3 bolts that attach the top hat to the chassis. The torque spec for the strut rod nut that attaches the top hat to damper is 41 lb.ft. If it was only torqued to 26 lb.ft, that's probably why it came loose.

345801
 

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Pretty sure you are referencing the torque spec for the 3 bolts that attach the top hat to the chassis. The torque spec for the strut rod nut that attaches the top hat to damper is 41 lb.ft. If it was only torqued to 26 lb.ft, that's probably why it came loose.
So that's interesting... I knew the three top hat to chassis bolts were 26 ft-lb, but for the top hat to shock bolt I was following the DSC supplied instructions which state the following:

345802


So I guess I am a bit confused on what is correct. The stud on the Tractive strut appears to be a slightly different metal than the OEM strut, so wonder if DSC is recommending a different torque setting with the Tractive dampers in mind? It's odd that the call out that one torque setting when there are almost no other torque settings listed in the instructions.
 

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So that's interesting... I knew the three top hat to chassis bolts were 26 ft-lb, but for the top hat to shock bolt I was following the DSC supplied instructions which state the following:

So I guess I am a bit confused on what is correct. The stud on the Tractive strut appears to be a slightly different metal than the OEM strut, so wonder if DSC is recommending a different torque setting with the Tractive dampers in mind? It's odd that the call out that one torque setting when there are almost no other torque settings listed in the instructions.
Ah, I see the confusion and your point is a very valid one. Unfortunately, I can't speak for them and why they chose to have that in the install guide. I typically don't stray from factory torque settings unless a reason is provided, which there wasn't one in this case.

@[email protected], any input as to what torque spec we should use when attaching the OEM top plate to the Tractive damper?
 

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I'm pretty sure that my installer doesn't know what a torque wrench is. I imagine that he took a 3/8" drive socket and wrenched the heck out of it.

It works ok for now, but if something happens then it's just another excuse to install the new tophats from @[email protected]. Probably way overkill for a DD, but racecar.
 

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Ah, I see the confusion and your point is a very valid one. Unfortunately, I can't speak for them and why they chose to have that in the install guide. I typically don't stray from factory torque settings unless a reason is provided, which there wasn't one in this case.

@[email protected], any input as to what torque spec we should use when attaching the OEM top plate to the Tractive damper?
So that's interesting... I knew the three top hat to chassis bolts were 26 ft-lb, but for the top hat to shock bolt I was following the DSC supplied instructions which state the following:

View attachment 345802

So I guess I am a bit confused on what is correct. The stud on the Tractive strut appears to be a slightly different metal than the OEM strut, so wonder if DSC is recommending a different torque setting with the Tractive dampers in mind? It's odd that the call out that one torque setting when there are almost no other torque settings listed in the instructions.
FWIW, this is the same torque spec the KW DDC instructions reference when I did my install:
345808

345809

The fronts came with nyloc nut, and the rears didn't come with any top nut, so I reused the stock one. I've only driven about 1000 miles since I installed them in July, but so far so good.
 
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FWIW, this is the same torque spec the KW DDC instructions reference when I did my install:
Thank you for the info for sure! I wonder if that's because in that kit, it comes with a supplied nylon locking nut.

I will also add, that I have been using the OEM nut, torquing to 41 lb.ft and it has not rattled or come loose. Just didn't want anyone to think I'm just throwing the OEM torque spec out there without firsthand experience.
 

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It's probably buried in here somewhere, but I don't see it. In the Calibrations I assume the "Touring Calibration" is the car "Normal" mode, the "Sport Calibration" is the car "Sport" mode, and the "Track Calibration" is the car "Track" mode. Is this correct?
 

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It's probably buried in here somewhere, but I don't see it. In the Calibrations I assume the "Touring Calibration" is the car "Normal" mode, the "Sport Calibration" is the car "Sport" mode, and the "Track Calibration" is the car "Track" mode. Is this correct?
Yes, that's correct. Also, and you may already know this, but you can toggle the Track Suspension calibration on/off with the OEM Damper Mode selection on the steering column stalk.
 

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So I guess I am a bit confused on what is correct. The stud on the Tractive strut appears to be a slightly different metal than the OEM strut, so wonder if DSC is recommending a different torque setting with the Tractive dampers in mind? It's odd that the call out that one torque setting when there are almost no other torque settings listed in the instructions.
DSC got back to me today regarding the top plate recommended torque with the following, "You can increase the torque to 35 lbs if you would like on the Tractive damper. I will have the installation guide updated. Very sorry to hear about that as we haven't had an issue yet."

I applied high-strength Loctite to the stud on each side for extra insurance to keep it from vibrating loose again.
 

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I remember a discussion a while ago on maximum safe current from dsc controller with tractive suspension. Got a reply from Jeremy martien at dsc. He says 2000 ma is max soft setting.
 

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See thread here for more info on the allowable range for suspension
 
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