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Yep Tractive orders are out to mid September, I have customer set on order as well. Material shortages, August holidays shutdowns and a back log at Eibach it seems. Plus they are very busy.
The RS will be a low runner I would say, so stock doesn't seem to be held.

How did you find the Superpro bushes? How are they for road use, I'm tempted to do some re-bushing to tighen things up a bit.
Believe they do standard alignment and alternative off set bushes to change camber and caster, symmetrical or Asymmetrical.
I actually haven't installed them yet... I was planning on doing it when the Tractive stuff showed up. I guess there's no point waiting now.
 

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Finally got the Tractive setup on! Interesting result so far. My immediate reaction was mixed, as I was already used to the harsh ride of the original setup, and the new setup felt a bit floaty. A long highway trip was however much more pleasant as the car absorbed most imperfections rather admirably while still being fully in control. It's hard to compare really, as I don't have much of a frame of reference having had old cars, and a temporarily lowered, then returned to stock, Civic previously. I'm looking forward to taking the car on some windy roads to see how it feels there. I also haven't had a chance to play around with the modes much yet. The track suspension (the stalk switch) no longer turns the car into continuous pogo.

The front is a bit higher than it used to be too. I don't actually dislike the look, and it should help in the winter some. I did ask about it and was told it's supposed to be that way.
 

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Beauty of the system you can make each of the 3 drive mode have very different suspension feel if you want. Normal can be soft and cruise, sport can be as firm as you like etc
 
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Beauty of the system you can make each of the 3 drive mode have very different suspension feel if you want. Normal can be soft and cruise, sport can be as firm as you like etc
I think after getting some more time with it first I'll venture over to the programming thread and try to figure that out as well. I think part of my confusion was that Sport and Normal used to feel very close to each other with minor changes in rebound. They feel very distinct now however. I'm curious if the track setting won't be the best for windy roads, though the extra absorption from Sport might do well here due to how broken side-roads tend to be in the North East
 

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I actually haven't installed them yet... I was planning on doing it when the Tractive stuff showed up. I guess there's no point waiting now.
I installed the front SuperPro control arm bushings... Didn't feel too bad driving around town, I put 600 miles on them in a week. The next weekend, during the UMI "King of The Mountain" autocross, the drivers side, forward bushing ripped in half on the third run on the first day. It was very well greased.. with the grease that came with the bushings. Sooo... not recommended for any heavy duty use because they are trash.
 

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I installed the front SuperPro control arm bushings... Didn't feel too bad driving around town, I put 600 miles on them in a week. The next weekend, during the UMI "King of The Mountain" autocross, the drivers side, forward bushing ripped in half on the third run on the first day. It was very well greased.. with the grease that came with the bushings. Sooo... not recommended for any heavy duty use because they are trash.
Hmmm, no, they’re definitely not “trash”. There is/was something wrong with the bushing or with the installation. They have a lifetime warranty, so send it in and get a new one.
Those front pivot bolts are one-time-use as they stretch to hold tight. If you reused them and torqued to the original spec, they’re not tight enough because they have already been stretched at that torque. You can reuse them once, maybe twice, by adding ~10% torque over the original spec.
Did you install them or a shop goon?
 

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I have a Front Left (FL) fault.
I ordered the upgraded wires and plugs as I think Nickulu told me about these and all have now been fitted.

Items changed
Connector Plugs from damper to attach to the Extension piece, new extension now connects to the OEM loom plug via a new Connector plug.

So did all the wiring changes fired up the laptop and “I” investigated the DSC controller and a Front Left fault still their.

I then plugged in the FL damper into the Front Right (FR) damper connector and reset the laptop and ignition and “I” investigated the system again expecting two faults but only got one a FL fault which ruled out a FL damper issue as the FL was now plugged into the FR wiring

Anyone have any ideas ???
 

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Your effort proved you have some problem in the wiring at, or along the path to the controller. Try making sure the pins at the controller connector are fully locked into their socket and both male and female pins are not spread or bent.
 

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Cheers Fordza 2 👍
The wiring has been checked and no faults in the loom being that of either the DSC cabling or the factory cable to controller.
Controller cable plugged in firmly with no bent pins. Also the original plugs and wires have been changed to the new yellow plugs fault was their on original and new cable plugs.
I’ve had the controller cable plugged in and out over the past 2-3 weeks a dozen or more times. I think on at least one occasion if it was a seating issue I’d of struck lucky; just seems to be an issue once the signal hits pin 8 or 9 on the DSC box.

White Black Font Material property Parallel
 

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Welp, it sure could be a bad solder joint in the controller. Warranty? If not, then open that thing up and inspect it under magnifier w/light. You may see the problem, likely at the main external connector where it solders to the board.
 

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Hmmm, no, they’re definitely not “trash”. There is/was something wrong with the bushing or with the installation. They have a lifetime warranty, so send it in and get a new one.
Those front pivot bolts are one-time-use as they stretch to hold tight. If you reused them and torqued to the original spec, they’re not tight enough because they have already been stretched at that torque. You can reuse them once, maybe twice, by adding ~10% torque over the original spec.
Did you install them or a shop goon?
I installed them with a friend of mine that owns a tuning shop (lifts are nice!). They went in without any issues, according to the instructions and greased properly. The hardest part in replacing these is just removing the old rubber bushings, installing the new ones easy as hell, it's hard to imagine not being able to install them correctly.
 

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So I got a call from DSC. They told me that Tractive wouldn't be done with my suspension until the end of October. And they said I had to pay $500 MORE because prices went up. I paid in full for these at the beginning of April. They have had my money for half a year and now they want more.........
 

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So I got a call from DSC. They told me that Tractive wouldn't be done with my suspension until the end of October. And they said I had to pay $500 MORE because prices went up. I paid in full for these at the beginning of April. They have had my money for half a year and now they want more.........
I love the setup but, yeesh, not a good look. I wonder if the recent price hikes have anything to do with Tractive announcing sole distribution rights to AJR Restorations.

This new distribution deal has grown from working together over the last year and AJR getting familiar with the semi-active suspension kits TracTive Suspension has to offer. AJR, located in Tavares, Florida will take on the task of being the sole distributor for the TracTive Suspension automotive product line-up.
 

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So I got a call from DSC. They told me that Tractive wouldn't be done with my suspension until the end of October. And they said I had to pay $500 MORE because prices went up. I paid in full for these at the beginning of April. They have had my money for half a year and now they want more.........
Oof. That's not a good look. Sorry to hear that. Did they give an explanation at least?
 

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I was looking at these, but I think KW just got my $$$
 

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I installed them with a friend of mine that owns a tuning shop (lifts are nice!). They went in without any issues, according to the instructions and greased properly. The hardest part in replacing these is just removing the old rubber bushings, installing the new ones easy as hell, it's hard to imagine not being able to install them correctly.
Just because someseems mechanically easy doesn’t mean you can’t **** up in the details.
What about the torque specs on the one-time-use bolts? Did you install new bolts and torque to spec with the weight on the vehicle?
These “simple” tasks are full of nuance and technique.

Oh, and the shop friend is the WORST person to provide help on such things because they are accustomed to throwing crap together for profit, not precision.

That lower front bushing has the most force applied during operation which is why the oems are bonded to the arm. If the torque on your install is even a little low, the load is concentrated on a small area of the bushing which allows it to be literally cut by the pivot bolt.
 

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I was looking at these, but I think KW just got my $$$
It's honestly pretty damn fantastic, but oof that new price is much tougher to swallow
 
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