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I ordered mine shortly after posting earlier (top of this page)... still waiting on the camber plates. I know they cant do anything about it at DSC, but this is taking quite a long time. I hope they show up in the next week or two or I'm going to miss the last chance to get into King of the Mountain this year.
Oh man, you must be the other order then! If so, they were close iirc, but don't quote me. I was asked if I had the RT package that reuses the top hats, or the set with camber plates. I am just going basic with the hats - so I was told it was already en route, and this was 2 weeks ago. Call them - it's quick for them to check the status.

From speaking to them previously it seems like there's a shortage of raw materials for manufacture - esp for a smaller maker like Tractive. Sucks, but what're ya gonna do
 
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I ordered mine shortly after posting earlier (top of this page)... still waiting on the camber plates. I know they cant do anything about it at DSC, but this is taking quite a long time. I hope they show up in the next week or two or I'm going to miss the last chance to get into King of the Mountain this year.
In my experience with these camber plates, they are fantastic but they do have some drawbacks that should be considered, especially if you intend to spend more time on street than track. The main consideration is suspension stroke.

The combination of the thickness of the camber plate assembly and where the top spring perch is located adds a few inches of height in comparison to the touring version using the OEM top hats. The upper stem and camber plate assembly essentially act as a lift spacer. So you have to lower the car to get back to stock height or lower, which ultimately reduces suspension stroke. The result is more bottoming out. Not a whole lot of great options from there - stiffer springs, raise ride height, stiffer dampening settings, etc. Certainly, not doom and gloom but, again, worth considering as I don't think this is openly communicated to the end user.
 

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Shocks and plates to the car.
I've installed and removed the setup a few times already. It's difficult without assistance to compress the strut and make it shorter. As mentioned, the combination is taller and presents issues maneuvering into and out of the knuckle, especially since you have to be careful not to pinch the cable while doing so. I have to use a ratchet strap, which makes the task much easier.
 

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Oh man, you must be the other order then! If so, they were close iirc, but don't quote me. I was asked if I had the RT package that reuses the top hats, or the set with camber plates. I am just going basic with the hats - so I was told it was already en route, and this was 2 weeks ago. Call them - it's quick for them to check the status.

From speaking to them previously it seems like there's a shortage of raw materials for manufacture - esp for a smaller maker like Tractive. Sucks, but what're ya gonna do
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I'm actually surprised you haven't gotten them yet? I talked with Jeremy a few weeks ago when mine showed up without the plates and I guess yours were already there too?
Let me know when you get them. I know there's almost 0 chance of me getting mine in the next 2 weeks... (when I need them) :(
 

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I'm actually surprised you haven't gotten them yet? I talked with Jeremy a few weeks ago when mine showed up without the plates and I guess yours were already there too?
Let me know when you get them. I know there's almost 0 chance of me getting mine in the next 2 weeks... (when I need them) :(
Oh yeah, you may have misunderstood me - I already received mine last week. I was saying I called them 2 weeks ago and they had asked me which one I was (with or without the top plates)
 

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I'm actually surprised you haven't gotten them yet? I talked with Jeremy a few weeks ago when mine showed up without the plates and I guess yours were already there too?
Let me know when you get them. I know there's almost 0 chance of me getting mine in the next 2 weeks... (when I need them) :(
The setup works pretty well without the camber plates, why not give it a go without? Especially if your car isn't a track toy?

I wouldn't let a normal mechanic work on the install. I had a bad experience and ended up having to redo half of the install myself. Take it to a real performance suspension shop and have them do the alignment right after the install, you'll pay a little more up front but then again it will be installed right the first time.
 

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The setup works pretty well without the camber plates, why not give it a go without? Especially if your car isn't a track toy?

I wouldn't let a normal mechanic work on the install. I had a bad experience and ended up having to redo half of the install myself. Take it to a real performance suspension shop and have them do the alignment right after the install, you'll pay a little more up front but then again it will be installed right the first time.
That's my thought. I'd do it myself if I had all the tools and a garage at hand, but I no longer do - and I don't think my buddy will appreciate me leaving a car at his place if I am missing something. I've always enjoyed suspension stuff. Just the hook-ups alone have me worried, like the front connectors needing to be passed into the engine bay. That seems rife for messing up.
What were the mistakes in your case?
 

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Well... It's for autocross mostly. I just gutted the back of the car, thinking about an AC delete for the weight savings (AC is kinda hard to remove...I do still drive it on the street :cool:) and I need almost 3* of camber to run W-I-D-E Yoko's... under the carbon front fenders and pulled rears... I kinda need the camber plates. Hell, I can't even fit the tires on until I can get ~2.5* or more in the front now.
I'm getting ready to make a front splitter/underbody aero in the next couple of weeks as well in case you're thinking the aero balance is off... it is.

353711
 

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That's my thought. I'd do it myself if I had all the tools and a garage at hand, but I no longer do - and I don't think my buddy will appreciate me leaving a car at his place if I am missing something. I've always enjoyed suspension stuff. Just the hook-ups alone have me worried, like the front connectors needing to be passed into the engine bay. That seems rife for messing up.
What were the mistakes in your case?
Routing and connecting the connectors isn't much of a problem. Just make sure it's routed in the same manner as the wheel speed sensor. I know there's been some issues reported but, in my experience, the entire install process isn't that bad. The tricky part and most important part is getting the bottom of the Tractive strut into and out of the knuckle since it's easy to pinch the cable coming out of the bottom of the Tractive strut.
 

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Well... It's for autocross mostly. I just gutted the back of the car, thinking about an AC delete for the weight savings (AC is kinda hard to remove...I do still drive it on the street :cool:) and I need almost 3* of camber to run W-I-D-E Yoko's... under the carbon front fenders and pulled rears... I kinda need the camber plates. Hell, I can't even fit the tires on until I can get ~2.5* or more in the front now.
I'm getting ready to make a front splitter/underbody aero in the next couple of weeks as well in case you're thinking the aero balance is off... it is.

View attachment 353711
Holy hell, that's awesome!
 

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That's my thought. I'd do it myself if I had all the tools and a garage at hand, but I no longer do - and I don't think my buddy will appreciate me leaving a car at his place if I am missing something. I've always enjoyed suspension stuff. Just the hook-ups alone have me worried, like the front connectors needing to be passed into the engine bay. That seems rife for messing up.
What were the mistakes in your case?
The installer rushed the job and didn't bother reading the instructions. As mentioned, the wires coming out of the bottom of the front dampers were rubbing on the CV boot and the outer insulation was worn away. One of the wires on the rear dampers was trapped between the body and the top of the damper. The rubber on the rear lower control arm wasn't removed so the spring height adjuster didn't sit correctly in the spring pocket. The front ride height wasn't even close to set to stock or even left to right.

You know, little things.
 
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Depends which cable connectors are on them, as I’ve heard they have been upgraded, but just in case treat the ends of the wire connectors as if your life depends on them the plugs are / where fragile
 

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Does anyone on here have a Tractive setup 3 years or older.
If you have how much was their first service at 3 years or 30k
 

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I'm not there yet but I thought I was told 60k
Who told you 60K if you don't mind? I think Tractive recommends 30K, less if track duty. DSC told me that 30K is a short number and is just there as a pre-caution (kind of like best-by dates), and if it's a DD - not track duty - that can go quite a bit longer between inspections. I'd personally just do 30-40K just because that's like once every 2-3 years for me, I don't drive a ton, esp now.
 

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Pay to play. It's like $300-350 per damper last I checked. Have them put the upgraded wiring on the dampers while they're at it.

Sounds like a good excuse for a road trip to DSC.
 
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