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I've read and watched people call this install nothing less than arduous. I want to show the exact set up I used to access and remove the downpipe to exhaust housing nuts. This makes the removal and installation easy. First pic is for the top nut, second is for the bottom nut. Half inch drive ratchet with deep impact socket and impact extensions, wobble and breaker bar. Notice the length of extension and placement of wobble.
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.

I've been involved in two DP installs so far (it'll be three sometime within next few weeks) and I was able to sneak in this impact gun to get to the bottom bolt, sure made it a hell of a lot easier





For the top bolt, the (full) handle of this jack is an absolutely tried and true cheater bar for sure!


 

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I've read and watched people call this install nothing less than arduous. I want to show the exact set up I used to access and remove the downpipe to exhaust housing nuts. This makes the removal and installation easy. First pic is for the top nut, second is for the bottom nut. Half inch drive ratchet with deep impact socket and impact extensions, wobble and breaker bar. Notice the length of extension and placement of wobble.
View attachment 319762
View attachment 319760
HOLY COW!
Looks like I need another breaker bar and a wobbler.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I also used CorrosionX as a penetrant on the studs/nuts applied with a Qtip and Molykote P37 on the studs for reinstallation.
 

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Thanks for the advice. Will have to pick up a wobble set.
The only time I have used one is when the Ford tech dropped a 10mm that I found later
 

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wsm states to remove ptu to remove cat converter. i guess you dont obviously.
With “wsm” being who/what? The PTU can definitely stay in place . (#edit: ah, "work shop manual")



I had created a thread with some good details and tips (https://www.focusrs.org/forum/16-focus-rs-performance/114048-sharing-my-notes-aftermarket-downpipe-install.html#post2163280), I’ll rehash that here on this thread

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Yesterday we had an RS get together here at the house for a downpipe (referred to from here on out as "DP") installation and I just wanted to share some notes on it to help others. I had gathered information from all over the place and now I'll share

Car: 2016 RS1
Downpipe: Depo Racing catless downpipe (link)

The Blake's Garage video linked to at very bottom was the basis for the install and was an invaluable help but hopefully I can put more words into it to help tackle this job.

Hank's how-to is great as well, I'm just going to put more words to this all :)

i'll make up for my lack of pictures by linking to videos and parts/tools/

Pre-planning:
  • It's said in the service manual that the V-clamp is to be trashed and a new one put in it's place ($13 @ Tascaparts). We reused the one on the car, no problems with it leaking or the like, so your milage may vary on that one. EDIT: we did end up replacing a short time later
  • You can rent an O2 socket set from O'Rileys, AutoZone, Advanced, NAPA etc. It cost us $30 to rent and I returned them today and got all that money back.
  • Others may have had success using socket universal joints to get to the upper 15mm mounting nuts, we had no such luck as we simply couldn't get the right amount of torque/oomph to break them loose.
  • I cannot see any way that doing this install alone is even feasible, grab a friend! Not impossible but a heck of a lot easier to have another set of eyes/hands around.
Removal of surrounding stuff in the way. (Removal of the wipers and cowl may not be required but the extra room sure helped! And it's less than 2 mins of time to get it off.)
  • Got the car up on jack stands about as high as we could. More room = more better.
  • Airbox and Intake tube = out (YouTube link): You don't need to remove all of the intake, just the induction elbow and the part that has the "RS" on it
  • Battery and tray (YouTube link) = all the way out: a bit more time consuming but just two 10mm nuts for the bracket, loosening (not removal!) of the two 10mm bolts for the terminals and then three or four 10mm bolts that secure the tray to the car.
  • Wiper arms (optional to remove cowl): pop the black rubber covers off, mark with Sharpe where the bolt and the inside of the wiper arms' circular opening meet so you can do your best to put them back exactly where they were
  • Windshield cowl (optional): four pop clips (middle), two Torx bolts (one on each edge), two silver 10mm bolts (one under each pop off cover by the wiper arms)
  • Engine undertray: this needs to come off to get to a 12mm nut that is part of the stock DP support.
  • Side undertrays (the flat panels that run down the sides: you don't need to fully remove these, just take out the two pop off clips in the front.
Under-the-car steps of stock DP removal:
  • There is a 12mm nut to remove about 1/2 way down the stock DP access by the opening created by removing the undertray. It's on there tight, my socket was hot to the touch from removing it. Half of that bracket can come off as well, that's one more 12mm nut that points towards back of car. You can leave the front-of-engine-pointing 12mm bolt on the other 1/2 of that bracket on.
  • Remove the black crossmember that runs under the end of the DP: there are two 15mm nuts and six 12mm nuts to remove with the ones on each edge accessible by slightly pulling down the side protection undertrays
  • Remove the bolts for the DP's lower hanger bracket: two 10mm bolts. You can leave the bracket on the hangers.
Moving up into the engine bay, here comes the fun part, the upper mounting nuts, ugh! I can't stress enough that the most important thing we ran into here is to get the right length of extensions in place so that you can fit the appropriate tool! (1/2" ratchet for top, impact gun for bottom). To mention again, we had no luck with swivel joints as they just didn't allow us to get enough torque to loosen,
  • Get your curse words ready!
  • Unplug both O2 sensors and undo the wiring from the black plastic clips/guides. You can trace/feel/follow the harnesses up to their respective plugs, they both come up about where the intake bolts to the cylinder head. The sensors can stay on while taking off the stock DP
  • We attacked the lower DP nut first. Got a deep 15mm impact socket and extension on there by having another spot/coach from under the car looking up at the nut. I was then able to somehow squeeze my impact gun into place and get a quick burst on it to get the nut loosened up, finished the job using a ratchet from there. Make sure the impact gun is on reverse before starting this, it would SUCK to accidentally tighten this nut more!
  • The top bolt, which is visible from the top but it still helped to have a spotter from the passenger side of engine bay: got the deep socket 15mm on there and had just the right length of extension so I could get a 1/2 ratchet on there (no room for impact gun unfortunately). Then using the handle of my 3 ton jack as a breaker bar we slid this over the ratchet handle we were able to break that bolt loose and it came off.
  • Hard part is done, it's all smooth sailing from there! Remove the stock DP by pulling it out from under the car, it may not look like it will come out with the heat shield and O2 sensors on, but it definitely does with some twisting and turning.
  • Find/locate the OEM "Catalytic Converter Gasket" (#2 on this digram) that was on the top opening. It *should* have been left behind on the studs that held the top of the DP..
  • Remove the bottom hanger bracket and put it on the new DP right now! Don't make the mistake we made and put the bracket on the car first as we ended up having to uninstall the top of the new DP because we couldn't maneuver the hangers into place afterwards.
  • Remove the O2 sensors from stock DP. The right tools for the right job always helps, make sure to rent the socket set mentioned at the start! Keep track of which one is upper pipe and lower pipe as they are different, but if you lose track the lower one has the longer wire harness :)
  • If the V-band is on the DP, then remove it obviously. If you are going to reuse it then you may to spread it apart enough to remove, I used a big flathead screwdriver in there to pry the clamp apart
New DP installation:
  • Put the O2 sensors on the new DP, use a dab of anti-seize on the threads to help them from seizing onto the DP
  • Put the hanger bracket on the bottom hangers if you haven't done this yet.
  • Make sure the Catalytic Converter Gasket is in place on the top studs of the upper side.
  • Put a dab of anti-seize on the studs of the upper side
  • Slide the DP into place from under the car with someone in the engine bay helping guide the top onto the studs, making sure the metal gasket is in place.
  • Start the 15mm nuts finger tight on the top studs so the top of the DP won't fall off the studs.
  • Fish the O2 sensor wires up into the engine bay. The lower wire had fallen down the other way, I took a coat hanger and successfully fished for it to pull back up into engine bay.
  • Tighten the two upper 15mm bolts. I don't know what torque specs are (they are listed on Hank's page), I just guessed at them as I don't see any way to involve a torque wrench into the equation, so I just did "not gorilla tight"!
  • Moving to under the car, mount the lower hanger bracket to the car frame (two 10mm bolts)
  • Put back the crossmember back in place, making sure to go under the side panels for the outer bolts (four 12mm bolts, two 12mm nuts, two 15mm nuts)
  • Re-secure the side panels by putting push pins back in place
  • Put the engine undetray back on
  • Put the V-band into place to hold DP to the exhaust/resonator (the difficultly of the is well documented here on FocusRS.org, but it does go back on and make a seal)
  • Going back to engine bay, plug the O2 sensors back into the car and put the sensor wires into their clips/guides. I also put a few well placed zip ties for extra protection to keep the wires away from the DP.
  • Reinstall battery tray and battery and then intake and airbox
  • Put windshield cowl back on if you took it off
  • Put wipers back in position and put the 15mm nuts back on, do NOT over tighten these, put them on hand tight and then just under a 1/4 turn with ratchet. We ran into problems here after putting them on too tight and the wipers got all out of whack, thankfully found this video to get the motors into a specific position to get the arms in the right position

Finished! This video is both the new DP and the AWE Track Edition exhaust



Here is the Blake's Garage video mentioned:



And another link to Hank's how-to:

Hank's RS - Scorpion Downpipe


Hope my notes help, it's daunting install but do-able. There were four of us RS owners total working on this (and the exhaust) but I'm the only one who is on this site. Maybe someday Kyle, Jamie and Asa will join up. It was really fun to see 4 RS's in my driveway/garage yesterday

- Stephen
 

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work shop manual says you have to remove the ptu. but yall doing it without taking it out
Definitely don't have to remove the PTU.
 
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