I fought with a downpipe install for a couple days thanks in no small part to my hubris convincing me I didn't need backup turbo studs and nuts, and then (after absolutely shredding a u-joint adapter) breaking both studs out of the turbo with their respective nuts. 🙃
Anyway, following a trip to the dealership the next day, I got that half sorted only to run into another issue: The hanger rods are pretty far off the mark. I was able to convince them to play (rough) with the bracket, and after the gauntlet I just ran at the front of the pipe I was ready to say "f*** it" and let it be. That was until I decided to zip the subframe plate back under it and noticed the pipe jump up almost a half inch.
Here's what we're looking at:
![Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Light Motor vehicle]()
First of all, I love how the manufacturer (who will remain nameless until I write a review after we get this situation sorted) had made complicated, big-brain bends on the driver's side and then - after apparently exhausting their talent there - said "Eh, whatev" on the passenger side; bending and welding it at an angle that basically can't not make contact with that subframe plate. The red circle is where mine's making contact. The driver's rod is welded at a sensible 8 o'clock position, while the passenger's is nearly 5 o'clock.
This picture was taken prior to a few hours of intimate mechanical persuasion with a heat gun & hammer, (which did nothing) then a highly-strategic jack occupation which yielded moderate results. I was able to bend the driver's side up enough that the rubber in the bracket stopped having that Bell's palsy effect, while lifting the passenger side rod almost 1/2". That also bent both rods forward, so I had to cut 1/4" off both ends to avoid them making contact with the actual subframe. I was eventually able to slide a piece of paper between the plate and the rod and called that good enough until I had the proper weapons this war is calling for.
Yeah, it rattles. Not so much I won't wait here for some decent advice, but enough that I've taken this whole ordeal personally and can't wait to get back there and kick its shiny, metal ass.
More than anything, I really really don't want to take this thing back off the car. I'm guessing the "right" ways to do this are either hitting it with a MAP torch and bending it or re-welding it. I don't have a welder and I'm scared to hit it with a torch while it's still on there. If I take the rubber bracket back off would torching it be okay? If so, how would you point the torch - toward the pipe or toward the heat shield?
Whatever you say, please don't make it "you'll have to take it off the car first." I'm begging you. 😅
Update: See my post where I "fixed" this.
Anyway, following a trip to the dealership the next day, I got that half sorted only to run into another issue: The hanger rods are pretty far off the mark. I was able to convince them to play (rough) with the bracket, and after the gauntlet I just ran at the front of the pipe I was ready to say "f*** it" and let it be. That was until I decided to zip the subframe plate back under it and noticed the pipe jump up almost a half inch.
Here's what we're looking at:
First of all, I love how the manufacturer (who will remain nameless until I write a review after we get this situation sorted) had made complicated, big-brain bends on the driver's side and then - after apparently exhausting their talent there - said "Eh, whatev" on the passenger side; bending and welding it at an angle that basically can't not make contact with that subframe plate. The red circle is where mine's making contact. The driver's rod is welded at a sensible 8 o'clock position, while the passenger's is nearly 5 o'clock.
This picture was taken prior to a few hours of intimate mechanical persuasion with a heat gun & hammer, (which did nothing) then a highly-strategic jack occupation which yielded moderate results. I was able to bend the driver's side up enough that the rubber in the bracket stopped having that Bell's palsy effect, while lifting the passenger side rod almost 1/2". That also bent both rods forward, so I had to cut 1/4" off both ends to avoid them making contact with the actual subframe. I was eventually able to slide a piece of paper between the plate and the rod and called that good enough until I had the proper weapons this war is calling for.
Yeah, it rattles. Not so much I won't wait here for some decent advice, but enough that I've taken this whole ordeal personally and can't wait to get back there and kick its shiny, metal ass.
More than anything, I really really don't want to take this thing back off the car. I'm guessing the "right" ways to do this are either hitting it with a MAP torch and bending it or re-welding it. I don't have a welder and I'm scared to hit it with a torch while it's still on there. If I take the rubber bracket back off would torching it be okay? If so, how would you point the torch - toward the pipe or toward the heat shield?
Whatever you say, please don't make it "you'll have to take it off the car first." I'm begging you. 😅
Update: See my post where I "fixed" this.
Cut that non cooperative piece of stuff off; bend up one or two wire coat hangers to the shape you need and JB Weld the 
