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2018 NB RS
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I fought with a downpipe install for a couple days thanks in no small part to my hubris convincing me I didn't need backup turbo studs and nuts, and then (after absolutely shredding a u-joint adapter) breaking both studs out of the turbo with their respective nuts. 馃檭

Anyway, following a trip to the dealership the next day, I got that half sorted only to run into another issue: The hanger rods are pretty far off the mark. I was able to convince them to play (rough) with the bracket, and after the gauntlet I just ran at the front of the pipe I was ready to say "f*** it" and let it be. That was until I decided to zip the subframe plate back under it and noticed the pipe jump up almost a half inch.

Here's what we're looking at:

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Light Motor vehicle


First of all, I love how the manufacturer (who will remain nameless until I write a review after we get this situation sorted) had made complicated, big-brain bends on the driver's side and then - after apparently exhausting their talent there - said "Eh, whatev" on the passenger side; bending and welding it at an angle that basically can't not make contact with that subframe plate. The red circle is where mine's making contact. The driver's rod is welded at a sensible 8 o'clock position, while the passenger's is nearly 5 o'clock.

This picture was taken prior to a few hours of intimate mechanical persuasion with a heat gun & hammer, (which did nothing) then a highly-strategic jack occupation which yielded moderate results. I was able to bend the driver's side up enough that the rubber in the bracket stopped having that Bell's palsy effect, while lifting the passenger side rod almost 1/2". That also bent both rods forward, so I had to cut 1/4" off both ends to avoid them making contact with the actual subframe. I was eventually able to slide a piece of paper between the plate and the rod and called that good enough until I had the proper weapons this war is calling for.

Yeah, it rattles. Not so much I won't wait here for some decent advice, but enough that I've taken this whole ordeal personally and can't wait to get back there and kick its shiny, metal ass.

More than anything, I really really don't want to take this thing back off the car. I'm guessing the "right" ways to do this are either hitting it with a MAP torch and bending it or re-welding it. I don't have a welder and I'm scared to hit it with a torch while it's still on there. If I take the rubber bracket back off would torching it be okay? If so, how would you point the torch - toward the pipe or toward the heat shield?

Whatever you say, please don't make it "you'll have to take it off the car first." I'm begging you. 馃槄

Update: See my post where I "fixed" this.
 

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2018 NB RS
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Why didn't you install aftermarket downpipe hanger.
I honestly didn't think it was worth the money for what it was. I don't see a ton of people talking about using them, either.

mine rattled on my crossmember so i changed the downpipe hanger and also heat wrapped the entire DP
At this point after making the bends I mentioned after that picture was taken the offending hanger rod here is now just a pinch above where it should be and would be with an aftermarket hanger bracket. The problem here is the location the rod was welded to combined with the way it was bent. Without getting under the car and unbolting the plate to take a side picture, here's an artist's expert illustration of it as seen from the passenger side of the car:
Bicycle handlebar Bicycle part Auto part Cable Font

The shallow angle of the rod is going to be a problem no matter what hanger I use. That being said, I completely agree (after a jaunt over to the ST forums where they talk about it) that long-term getting an aftermarket hanger is a good option, but it's not one that will directly fix this issue.
 

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2018 NB RS
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I would have broken those rods by that stage 馃槄
Trust me when I say everything in me wants to choose violence here. 馃槪

I went ahead and got a MAP torch today (how in the world are the igniter/nozzles $60 USD now?!) after watching people torch other installed exhausts just fine. I figure I can get enough of a bend in it to clear the plate and still have enough leg left for the hanger.
 

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I have all the engineering expertise of Red Green; so "be advised".

What's the possibility of cutting off the rod with the incorrect bend/s; having a different one custom bent, and then welding that rascal in place of the old one, or is that your current plan with the new welder?

If that doesn't work; here's my Red Green solution! (y) Cut that non cooperative piece of stuff off; bend up one or two wire coat hangers to the shape you need and JB Weld the :censored:er in place! QED!
 

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2018 NB RS
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What's the possibility of cutting off the rod with the incorrect bend/s; having a different one custom bent, and then welding that rascal in place of the old one, or is that your current plan with the new welder?
This, in my mind, is the "right" way to fix it for sure. I've been wanting to learn to weld for a long time but never got around to it and all the "free" classes expect you to take a job my spine can't handle. Anyway, one day I'll probably take it to a pro here in town and have them do it, but I've sorted it well enough (see next post) for now.

If that doesn't work; here's my Red Green solution! (y) Cut that non cooperative piece of stuff off; bend up one or two wire coat hangers to the shape you need and JB Weld the :censored:er in place! QED!
馃ぃ Love your style! Unfortunately, I don't think the Mommy Dearest Method鈩 will work with the stresses the flex pipe will be under.
 

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2018 NB RS
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update: I've "fixed" it well enough for the foreseeable future.

Here's that profile shot (before the bends) I spent years of my life drawing for you above:

Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Grille


A couple other angles to show how wild it is they ever thought this positioning was a good idea:

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Hood Automotive lighting


Anyway, I picked up a MAP torch (again, why are the heads $60 USD? 馃槶) and commenced the bending with the box end of a 22mm wrench. I did it in three total phases, reattaching almost everything between each phase to check the clearance and then cry because it wasn't good enough and my arms hurt. The following picture is after phase 2:

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper


I still didn't love the way it sat so close to the pipe and the back of the plate, so I widened the bend and started the upward bend closer to the weld. At that point I had barely enough rod left to insert into the hanger; maybe 1/8". So yeah, I could have just cut it off and saved myself a ton of money if I could have seen the future.

I did fix the driver's side rod completely, though, and both rods fit into the rubber in the hangers dead center. Small victories. 馃し鈥嶁檧锔

No rattles at all anymore, though. What a wild and unnecessarily taxing ride. If you'll excuse me, I need to go unlock my shoulders so I can drive to my emergency physical therapy appointment.
 
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