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Are you interested in an aluminum front splitter?

  • Absolutely yes!

    Votes: 29 90.6%
  • Nah I’m good with plastic

    Votes: 3 9.4%

  • Total voters
    32
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Has anyone tried fitting this with a flowdesign lip still on? (obviously with no DMG front or side deflectors)
 

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Has anyone tried fitting this with a flowdesign lip still on? (obviously with no DMG front or side deflectors)
I was planning to do this exact thing next summer.

I think it’s totally feasible my preliminary plan for this was:
  • Remove the « spacer » at the middle of the splitter, retain it, might need it to act as a shim between the skidplate and the bumper cover at the middle, although judging from my skidplate installation it would have been too thick...might need to shave it’s thickness down.
  • Transfer the splitter holes through the front skid plate, in line with mating bumper cover holes (that’s probably the tricky part, although you can enlarge the holes in the plate if needed to recover some misalignment);
  • Install nut retainer plate that was included with the splitter inside bumper cover with double sided tape;
  • I already had made blind nut retainers for the other mounting holes, was going to install them in a similar manner to inside of bumper cover (double sided tape + maybe blind rivets on the smaller ones). You’ll probably need to do this otherwise I dont see how you can put the bumper cover back on over the skidplate and then install the splitter;
  • Bolt splitter through the skidplate into the nut retainers from bottom of car. You might need to fit the shim piece between the skidplate and the bumper cover to fill the gap before buttoning it all up. Might need to shave its thickness down or make a new one out of some other material using it as a template.
Obviously you would need to have the bumper off to fit the nut retainers, if yo havent fitted the skidplate already you could do it all at once.

I decided I liked the rally style + added protection + better ground clearance better and would not bother switching setups with the seasons.

I sold the splitter, got a lot of interest for it quickly and probably could have priced it a bit higher. If you decide to sell it should be gone quick and at a good price!

Edit: added pictures of those nut retainers I made and how they were installed to the stock front undertray. Obviously you would have to fit them in a similar manner to the bumper cover instead. Hope that helps!
 

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I was planning to do this exact thing next summer.
snip
Thanks for the in-depth reply!
We'll see how the OEM front plastic tray fares over this winter, I plan on going into the mountains more. If it doesn't hold up I'll take this on next spring. I'm sure I can make it work. I just can't stand how the car looks without a lip, it needs the flowdesign lip otherwise it looks too plain for me
 

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Discussion Starter #148
For winter mode and rallycross/ice racing I will run the centre extension and side plates.

For the summer when I do autocross and track days, I plan to make a splitter that will bolt up to the chassis mount undertray. I will utilize the 7 bolts (2 per side winglets, 3 centre) and that should be plenty to hold it, and extend out 3” past the bumper or whatever like a normal track style splitter

336770
 

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Finished my install today, overall pretty painless compared to my brake rebuild and SS lines that I did at the same time.

I weighted my broken plastic tray with hardware and got 4.8, and got 17.1 for the aluminum tray including hardware minus the optional extensions. It’s never gonna be good to have extra weight ahead of the front axle, but I think 12-13 lbs is very good considering the extra protection this offers.
 

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I also made a few changes during install.

As many have mentioned the ecu box? gets in the way of the driver side support. I wanted to re-drill the mounting hole for it in order to move it forward but figured out that bending the metal tab inward actually did a much better job of moving the box forward and freeing up some room.


I also needed to drill a lower hole for the lateral support on both sides in order to get it to fit.



I found that drilling a new hole into the wheel-well bumper flange allowed me to pull it inboard and “tuck” the splash guard, avoiding the problems that some others have had with splash guard bending in toward the wheel.


Finally, since I will be running this mostly without the front extension, I wanted to secure the lower bumper into the plate at all of the provided holes. I mounted clip-nuts upside-down on the bumper which helped bridge the gap, and then put bolts up into the clip nut.


I’m a little worried about how this hardware will hold up since it is so exposed at the front edge so I’ll monitor it. I also realized that I can’t mount the front extension with the 3 forward bolts in place because they won’t let the extension sit flush. I may drill holes in the extension piece to fit around the 3 bolt heads, or I may just remove them. We’ll see...
 

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One last change. Although I plan to run most of the year without the front extension, I didn’t completely trust the clip nuts to hold it if I hit something hard. I imagined the extension levering against the front of the splitter and pulling out (down) from the clip nuts. Also I was worried that the clip nuts would move or fall out if I drove a long time with nothing screwed in.

I had some left over rivet nuts from installing Dorian’s undertray, but they didn’t work. They were steel and designed for use in thinner metal, so they just squished the softer aluminum when I tried to deform them. To rectify this I went to bigger nuts made from aluminum. I also sandwiched some steel washers in between to help prevent the aluminum plate from deforming. I drilled two more holes in a staggered fashion to strengthen it further.







The biggest pain was installing it back on the mounting plate without removing the bumper. Lots of those pieces can move and it was a pain to get them lined up, especially the side vertical supports.

Here is a link to the aluminum rivnuts in case anybody is interested.

 
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Does anyone have photos of the bolts that attach the new front supports to the new skidplate with the bumper on? Mine are resting up against the bumper pretty snug and I'm wondering if I've made an error with the install.
337115
 

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Does anyone have photos of the bolts that attach the new front supports to the new skidplate with the bumper on? Mine are resting up against the bumper pretty snug and I'm wondering if I've made an error with the install.
Mine are both close enough that the bumper part overlaps the washer.




Maybe you could shift the bolts down a little in the slots? Looks like that might give you enough clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Bump. I’ve been fighting an issue since I got it where the drivers side upright support and front splitter sits significantly closer to the tire than the passenger side.

For example the gap between the upright and the tire was about 2” on the P side, on the D side it’s only about 3/4”. I would rub when making right hand turns even after trimming away a **** tonne of fender liner.

This all came to a head today when tuning my suspension off road. Hit a rock on the front skidplate large enough to bend the splitter, this pushed it back enough into my tire and ripped the splitter and bent it badly. I have taken the front bumper off and removed/straightened the supports but I cannot get this thing to even come close to being driveable.

337326

337327
337328
337329
 

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Bump. I’ve been fighting an issue since I got it where the drivers side upright support and front splitter sits significantly closer to the tire than the passenger side.

For example the gap between the upright and the tire was about 2” on the P side, on the D side it’s only about 3/4”. I would rub when making right hand turns even after trimming away a **** tonne of fender liner.

This all came to a head today when tuning my suspension off road. Hit a rock on the front skidplate large enough to bend the splitter, this pushed it back enough into my tire and ripped the splitter and bent it badly. I have taken the front bumper off and removed/straightened the supports but I cannot get this thing to even come close to being driveable.
That sucks. How hard was the impact? I know with aluminum it’s not gonna be bulletproof but that support looks pretty well bent. Hopefully it protected your intercooler at least?

I also wonder if it would have handled the impact better if you hadn’t had the fitment issue to start with. Was this the same issue that people have had with clearance around the ECU box? Or do you think there was a problem with either your car mount locations or the splitter?
 

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Bump. I’ve been fighting an issue since I got it where the drivers side upright support and front splitter sits significantly closer to the tire than the passenger side.

For example the gap between the upright and the tire was about 2” on the P side, on the D side it’s only about 3/4”. I would rub when making right hand turns even after trimming away a **** tonne of fender liner.

This all came to a head today when tuning my suspension off road. Hit a rock on the front skidplate large enough to bend the splitter, this pushed it back enough into my tire and ripped the splitter and bent it badly. I have taken the front bumper off and removed/straightened the supports but I cannot get this thing to even come close to being driveable
Dang, that's a bummer, but at least you're putting it thru it's paces unlike the rest of us hardparkers ;).

I was test fitting the skid plate over the weekend and also noticed that the ECU box gets in the way, causing that upright to come at a slightly different angle than the passenger side. I've thought of redilling a hole like @Camper Van Someren did but I wasn't too crazy with how little material there is left between the two holes, so I might be shaving some material off the bracket to correct it instead (still not sure).

Guess this is the price of being early adopters...
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Yes I think some of the issue is with the ecu box. Dropping the car off at the body shop tomorrow morning for carbon hatch install so I’m gonna see if they can take a look at it, maybe a case of beer or two and strap it to the frame puller and see if they can straighten it a bit.

It was my own fault, hit a deep puddle (that covered the headlights) and hit a massive rock. No doubt if the splitter/skidplate wasn’t there my car would have self destructed.
 

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Yes I think some of the issue is with the ecu box. Dropping the car off at the body shop tomorrow morning for carbon hatch install so I’m gonna see if they can take a look at it, maybe a case of beer or two and strap it to the frame puller and see if they can straighten it a bit.

It was my own fault, hit a deep puddle (that covered the headlights) and hit a massive rock. No doubt if the splitter/skidplate wasn’t there my car would have self destructed.
You can probably bend that bracket back yourself, but be sure to heat/anneal it as you are straightening it out. Aluminum, specially when its thick, tends to crack/split when cold worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #160
I am aware. Both brackets were removed yesterday and straightened in my bench vice. But the entire assembly is tweaked 1.25” closer to the D side. A lot of that is pre-damage but this didn’t help anything
 
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