IIRC, the two holes with dowels take the longer bolts. One is below the starter and the other is the silly one you can’t remove completely without removing the downpipe.
Lol that was a 7pm-midnight stint 🥵 I have to make progress, that took too long already. I hope I finish it this weekend.dude...do u have a full time job?
you ain't playing around with this thing.
and thanks for posting that last (fully built) pic with the turbo side showing. dont get to see that too often.
i can tell you have a light crank and BS delete...the rpm needle bounces quicker.I recorded the startup with a couple of cameras but I don’t feel like editing right now. Here is just a bit of engine noise from the driver’s seat, door open and inside the garage for your listening pleasure.
I want to come back to the oil pan or no oil pan conversation: I found the instructions for the older seal (the bronze-looking one, with a fabric-looking ring on the outside, which comes with a white plastic tool inserted in the seal), and there are two distinct sets of instructions for this one:I’ve installed mine dry. Cleaned the crank with brake cleaner, lint free cloth, and let dry for a few minutes. No leaks 🤞. I don’t have any experience with lube on the crank.
I was a little surprised to see @axelr installed the oil pan before the rear main seal. It makes it a little harder to get the seal on straight and seal the surfaces between the sides of the seal and the oil pan. But, as long as you add the extra sealant on the sides it works fine.
All good info. Both “a” & “b” work.I want to come back to the oil pan or no oil pan conversation: I found the instructions for the older seal (the bronze-looking one, with a fabric-looking ring on the outside, which comes with a white plastic tool inserted in the seal), and there are two distinct sets of instructions for this one:
a) Remove the oil pan, and push the seal straight.
b) Discard the plastic tool that comes preinstalled on the seal, use the Ford 303-328 (T88P-6701-B1) tool instead, and come at an angle, push downwards toward the oil pan, and tilt the seal.
View attachment 361232
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The newer ones comes without the plastic tool, and the instruction are similar to variant (b). The older instruction are dated 2011 and the new ones 2019. Also the seal cannot be rotated or shifted in any direction as the two middle holes are doweled: the sheet metal is stamped in a way that guarantees alignment and the holes in the block are larger on those two.
One crucial thing that is often overlooked is the bottom two bolts of the rear seal are on the girdle while the other four are on the block. The girdle is not positioned by dowels and can move longitudinally about one millimeter or so when the 10 studs/bolts are only finger-tight.
It is important to align the rear of the girdle with the plane where the other four holes of the rear seal are on the block, so the seal stands flat with all six holes on the same plane.
It is possible the lower two threaded holes are up to 0.5mm-ish protruding or recessed if the girdle is not flush, and that will bend the lower part of the seal one way or the other when it gets torqued, with possible consequences on the sealing as it puts weird tensions around the giant round seal.
In the meantime I removed the flywheel of the v1 engine and had a close look at the seal: it was not leaking so, empirically, lubing the crankshaft (thin film of Sachs spline grease) had no adverse effect.