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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
PS: You may also find this interesting: http://www.focusrs.org/forum/30-focus-rs-electronics/10929-adjusting-fake-engine-noise-volume.html, but read this first for background.

PPS. This information is applicable to Sync 3 only. My understanding is that the EU cars using Sync 2 do not have the same FEN source. For Sync 2 Euro cars I believe the information you are looking for is here: https://mk3focusrs.club/forum/topic/fake-engine-noise-removal-guide/ (you need to be a member of mk3focusrs.club to see the post).

Personally I find the generated in-cabin engine noise a bit much... a little too fake, and a little too loud.

With some quick experimenting re DSP connections I was able to disable the fake engine noise by simply disconnecting this connector on the DSP.

20160719_100549.jpg

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This connector is likely CanBus I/O to the DSP (Fake Engine Noise Generator aka FENG). By unplugging it you are stopping CANBUS messages getting to the FENG telling it to generate FEN at various times/levels.

In any case, this is a quick fix for anyone that wants relief from the fake noise. There are no detrimental effects as a result of disconnecting this connector.

The first thing you will notice is just how darn quiet the car is inside the cabin!

PS. This is on the 10-sp audio package with voice activated Nav... I don't know if this would apply to other audio package options in the U.S. We only get one option in Canada.

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Update:

You will be astounded with just how much of our "high performance engine sound" is artificial. I mean, it's not a little bit of enhancement, it's a HUGE amount of enhancement.
Still, I personally prefer the quieter sound now. Plus from what I recall reading isn't Ford using this generated sound to encourage drivers to shift earlier by fooling them into thinking the engine is revving higher than it really is?

1. There are two wires on this connector. White (lower), and White/Blue (upper). Confirmed (with help from @NZWINRZ and @seamusbleu) that this connector is indeed a CANBUS connector. Looking at some other recent Ford vehicle wiring data, white is frequently used for HS CAN low and White/Blue for HS CAN high.

2. With the connector disconnected:
a) there is no fake engine noise - well, duh
b) speed sensitive volume continues to function normally
c) voice activated controls continue to function normally
d) sub-woofer continues to function normally
e) Pops and Burbles are still there - at least they're not artificial.

Also noted that hot [un]plugging this CANBUS connector while car is running appears to have no detrimental effects and [de]activates fake sound as it's hot plugged or unplugged. So it *may* be ok to put an old-school switch in there if desired. Disclaimer: Note I say *may*... I am not saying you should... I take no responsibility for any damage you may do to your own vehicle if you start mucking about with switched connections, etc.


Final Update:

1. See http://www.focusrs.org/forum/30-focus-rs-electronics/10929-adjusting-fake-engine-noise-volume.html for some more fun (and VIDEOs with sound comparisons of full FENG, partial FENG, no FENG).

2. The DSP box (Fake Engine Noise Generator - now aka FENG) can be entirely removed and put aside (save 1lb of weight! ;-) ) without issue.
 

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It literally looks like it has one single wire connected out of all that free space.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
^ Two wires actually. But yeah, not much else going on there. Would be interesting to see if Euro cars have the same empty connector considering they have the ANC feature.
 

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PS. This is on the 10-sp audio package with voice activated Nav... I don't know if this would apply to other audio package options in the U.S. We only get one option in Canada.
In the US we only get one stereo option as well. If the connectors are the same US to Canada, then they will be the same for all US.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Does your sub still work while listening to the radio etc?
I do believe so... I could not discern any obvious change in sound - but as noted I need to do a lot more testing... planning that this evening.

I literally just tried this on a whim this AM before leaving for work (and the car is at home).

I will post more findings as I try different things.
 

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@god7illa If that's the CANBUS, removing the connector should also disable speed-sensitive volume. That's another thing to check when you're looking into it more.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
@god7illa If that's the CANBUS, removing the connector should also disable speed-sensitive volume. That's another thing to check when you're looking into it more.
Yes, and I'm concerned it may be CANBUS because it's two wires. If it is CANBUS then at least it's an easy location to plug in a drop/insert Arduino (or similar) override. I have a Can-Shield Arduino add-on, just need to get some time to hook it up and play around.
 

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I just unplugged mine.

:(

Now I am a little disappointed. I only drove for 2 min to get lunch. I will test further on my 40min drive home but so far I am not happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just unplugged mine.

:(

Now I am a little disappointed. I only drove for 2 min to get lunch. I will test further on my 40min drive home but so far I am not happy.
Lol. I assume not enough "engine" roar for you without the piped sound? ;-)
 

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Lol. I assume not enough "engine" roar for you without the piped sound? ;-)
Well, yeah but...

I drove it 2 mins one way, unplugged it, and drove back.
That immediate sort of change was not helping the fact that the engine itself sounded less inspired than my dads 15yr old 4cyl S-10 pickup.

...Then i drove it home
The engine itself is silent. At the risk of sounding like a Golf R guy now, I'm going to say I see that silence as a sign of refinement.
Cruising on the highway at 80, you hear nothing. I think it may be great to be able to unplug this for something like a long road trip.
Any time you accelerate above 3k though there seems to be enough air finally pushing through to really bring the exhaust alive.
While it certainly isn't as muscular sounding (loses lower tones), It was still engaging.

Also, I actually found myself pushing the car harder because it was clearer to hear what kind of stress/load the engine was under.

I'll have to play with this some more in different scenarios, I think I will probably be plugging it back in but it isn't nearly as disappointing as I originally had thought.
I also haven't turned the radio on more than 5 min since picking the car up last week, so i wont begin to comment on speed controlled volume and such.
 

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Lol. I assume not enough "engine" roar for you without the piped sound? ;-)
Note to self: First use of Can-Shield Arduino: Remote Control of Fake Engine Sounds via Bluetooth App in Sync 3 :witless:.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Some more observations...

You will be astounded with just how much of our "high performance engine sound" is artificial. I mean, it's not a little bit of enhancement, it's a HUGE amount of enhancement.
Still, I personally prefer the quieter sound now. Plus from what I recall reading isn't Ford using this generated sound to encourage drivers to shift earlier by fooling them into thinking the engine is revving higher than it really is?

1. There are two wires on this connector. White (lower), and White/Blue (upper).

2. Connecting any SINGLE one of the wires does not enable fake engine noise.

3. With the connector (or any one of the two wires disconnected):
a) there is no fake engine noise - well, duh
b) speed sensitive volume continues to function normally
c) voice activated controls continue to function normally
d) sub-woofer continues to function normally

4. To be confirmed, but I believe this is a CANBUS connector. Looking at some other recent Ford vehicle wiring data, white is frequently used for HS CAN low and White/Blue for HS CAN high. Perhaps someone more familiar with Ford wiring conventions can confirm?
a) Something to add credence to this assumption is that at one point when I had connected only the white wire, I may have been contacting the adjacent pin and that sent the car into a frenzy of errors: AWD fail, Audio unavail, some other stuff I don't recall... lol.

5. Pops and Burbles are still there - at least they're not artificial.
 

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Note to self: First use of Can-Shield Arduino: Remote Control of Fake Engine Sounds via Bluetooth App in Sync 3 :witless:.
This post needs a thread!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Note to self: First use of Can-Shield Arduino: Remote Control of Fake Engine Sounds via Bluetooth App in Sync 3 :witless:.
Yes. And it would be nice to be able to automatically enable/disable FES? FEN? when a particular driving mode is activated.

If it can't be done via CANBUS it may be possible to do it old-school using some micro-relays and, if it exists, a "Sport" signal somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, yeah but...

I drove it 2 mins one way, unplugged it, and drove back.
That immediate sort of change was not helping the fact that the engine itself sounded less inspired than my dads 15yr old 4cyl S-10 pickup.

...Then i drove it home
The engine itself is silent. At the risk of sounding like a Golf R guy now, I'm going to say I see that silence as a sign of refinement.
Cruising on the highway at 80, you hear nothing. I think it may be great to be able to unplug this for something like a long road trip.
Any time you accelerate above 3k though there seems to be enough air finally pushing through to really bring the exhaust alive.
While it certainly isn't as muscular sounding (loses lower tones), It was still engaging.
Fully agree.

Also, I actually found myself pushing the car harder because it was clearer to hear what kind of stress/load the engine was under.
+1

I'll have to play with this some more in different scenarios, I think I will probably be plugging it back in but it isn't nearly as disappointing as I originally had thought.
Even jury-rigging a simple remote switch for it would not be a bad idea - then it could easily be turned off for the "long road-trip" or as desired.
 

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Maybe I'll unplug mine before I even test drive it.. you know.. 3 months from now.
 
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