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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Guys, some time ago I raised a topic about overheating. It's passed about a year and I had added some mods that as I was thinking would help to solve overhitting problems. But it doesn't. So, my current mods are:
Rough intake
ETS intercooler + piping
MOUNTUNE front oil cooler
MOUNTUNE coolant radiator
Mountune westgate actuator + air recirculation value
Full cat-less exhaust
COBB ecu reflash

Mountune selling CSF products under their brand, which I believe are the TOP radiator producers, so I was dreaming that oil cooler + upgraded coolant radiator would help. But I'm getting 248F coolant and 230F oil on the 4th lap, that is means less than in 4 minutes on the track. The weather was hot that day, about 95F air and 122F track temperature, but I don't think that is an issue.

I know that COBB reduced stock coolant and oil overheating limits, so I bought access tuner and return them back to factory limits. But it doesn't help also. Maybe something else is wrong in the Cobb software that is making my car overhit so quickly, could it be???

At the moment I don't know what to try next to fix overhitting problem, so maybe you guys suggest me what should I check next or maybe someone already solved such problems. I would be highly appreciated for any help!!!

Below is the video of one lap, just to show what type of track it's, it's average 55 seconds track


ps. if the coolant temp gets up to 248F the eco limits rpm at 5k and reduces the power
 

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So here is where we are at on our track car,
1.CSF radiator
2. Lower T stat
3. Fswerks oil cooler kit
4.Ford Escape oil filter housing, deletes coolant on the rs oil filter housing.
5. AC condenser delete
6. 80/20 water to coolant mix with water wetter.
7. 2.3L forged engine and head setup.

the car can make a some good laps now. Oil we never really see over 220 and~235 coolant temps.We normally loose the AWD unit first after 10~12 good hot laps in the summer. Fall and spring we can keep it running all 20 minutes. When it comes to time trials with scca south jersey we never seen any issues with temps as the time trial runs are very short. Oil and coolant are monitored through independent temp sensors buy prosport. Gauges are located with a ties in at the filter housing for oil and a tie in on the coolant line. Oil pressure is also monitored independently. The just recently put a coolant temp sensor on the ptu so we are hoping to take it out later on this month and hit lime rock in July once we finish fixing the suspension system.

On my personal car
1.CSF radiator
2 Ford Escape oil filter housing
3. Water wetter and 60/40 water to coolant mix.
4. Fswerks oil cooler kit.
5. 2.0L forged engine with 2.3l head

my car I normally get about ~8 laps in July and can kick it out almost a full 20 minute session in early spring and mid to late fall. Once the humidity and heat come to NJ I’m at a loss. I also have the prosport independent gauges monitoring oil temp and coolant temp.

We have noticed a 5-7 degree temp difference on the oil and ~10 on the coolant on the access port Vs the independent gauges. The readings are based on 215 oil temps and 220 coolant temps.
 
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So here is where we are at on our track car,
1.CSF radiator
2. Lower T stat
3. Fswerks oil cooler kit
4.Ford Escape oil filter housing, deletes coolant on the rs oil filter housing.
5. AC condenser delete
6. 80/20 water to coolant mix with water wetter.
7. 2.3L forged engine and head setup.

the car can make a some good laps now. Oil we never really see over 220 and~235 coolant temps.We normally loose the AWD unit first after 10~12 good hot laps in the summer. Fall and spring we can keep it running all 20 minutes. When it comes to time trials with scca south jersey we never seen any issues with temps as the time trial runs are very short. Oil and coolant are monitored through independent temp sensors buy prosport. Gauges are located with a ties in at the filter housing for oil and a tie in on the coolant line. Oil pressure is also monitored independently. The just recently put a coolant temp sensor on the ptu so we are hoping to take it out later on this month and hit lime rock in July once we finish fixing the suspension system.

On my personal car
1.CSF radiator
2 Ford Escape oil filter housing
3. Water wetter and 60/40 water to coolant mix.
4. Fswerks oil cooler kit.
5. 2.0L forged engine with 2.3l head

my car I normally get about ~8 laps in July and can kick it out almost a full 20 minute session in early spring and mid to late fall. Once the humidity and heat come to NJ I’m at a loss. I also have the prosport independent gauges monitoring oil temp and coolant temp.

We have noticed a 5-7 degree temp difference on the oil and ~10 on the coolant on the access port Vs the independent gauges. The readings are based on 215 oil temps and 220 coolant temps.
Nice work. One key I have noticed is cars that are pushed hard definitely need the coolant removed from the duties of keeping oil temps in check. Oil coolers are key as is the airflow for them. Few people shroud heat exchangers properly and most even stack them against themselves which is horrible . Also have you guys seen the Btcc cars? The front end is massively changed to allow ducting which evacuates exchanged air prior to heating up block/tranz/ptu. I’ll show some pics when mine is done in few mos. I had similar problems on s2000 track car. Vented hood and heat exchanged then made it exit the hood immediately.
 
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The biggest difference that made the most was the Ford Escape oil filter housing that removes the coolant from warming up the oil. You just need a independent temp gauge to go with it to better monitor the temp.

gasket:1S7Z-6840-AA
Filter housing: BS4Z6881F


342007

342008
B43AB2CA-1FDB-4416-BD19-4F7B87B10B86.jpeg
88E7E61F-C72C-42E8-88BA-5576085AA5DA.jpeg
 

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At the moment I don't know what to try next to fix overhitting problem, so maybe you guys suggest me what should I check next or maybe someone already solved such problems. I would be highly appreciated for any help!!!
Sounds like you are having coolant over heating and not necessarily oil over heating? The real issue with high oil temps is that it makes the oil thinner, which leads to lower oil pressures, which eventually is what causes damage to your engine. Most modern engine oils can tolerate up to 250F, maybe even more. Heck, some of our local track guys (non-RS's) run em up to 265F with no issues. If your oil pressures are still up, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I typically let my oil go up to around 240F, which usually takes me about 10-15 mins on a hot day, then I take some cool down laps to get it to around 230F, then back at it.

Have you tried the stock oil cooler along with the CSF radiator? The few local RS track guys I know who have installed oil coolers (Mishimoto, Mountune, JBR, you name it) all still had the same over heating issue due to the oil cooler blocking so much of the radiator. Most of them have since switched back to the OEM oil cooler and gone with the CSF radiator along with DI water+water wetter. The other thing I see being done are hood vents like the Verus or trackspec to help evacuate more head out of the engine bay, but this has been a hit or miss.

Also, it doesn't help that your track is so small. What's the fastest do you get on that track? Are you running this track continuously like a standard 20min session? I would imagine you are getting as much airflow as a regular autoX here in the US, which only lasts 30sec-1min at a time, which might not be enough speed to get air past the radiators to cool sufficiently.

...Oil and coolant are monitored through independent temp sensors buy prosport. Gauges are located with a ties in at the filter housing for oil and a tie in on the coolant line. Oil pressure is also monitored independently. The just recently put a coolant temp sensor on the ptu so we are hoping to take it out later on this month and hit lime rock in July once we finish fixing the suspension system.

I also have the prosport independent gauges monitoring oil temp and coolant temp.

We have noticed a 5-7 degree temp difference on the oil and ~10 on the coolant on the access port Vs the independent gauges. The readings are based on 215 oil temps and 220 coolant temps.
Would love to hear more about your oil temp and pressure set-up as I'd rather have actual reading than the calculated values displayed on the dash/Cobb AP. I've hesitated modifying the cooling system and add my oil cooler for a while now since that would render the oil temp and pressure reading the car does display inaccurate and I need those to dictate when I take my cool down laps.

The biggest difference that made the most was the Ford Escape oil filter housing that removes the coolant from warming up the oil. You just need a independent temp gauge to go with it to better monitor the temp.
I believe the Mountune oil cooler that the OP has deletes the coolant from the oil cooler as well, so it's basically the same as what you have.

Also, on the pics, is that green sensor the oil temp gauge?
 

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How long does the oil take to warm up without the coolant running through it now? Just wondering how adverse this would be living in a winter climate
 

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How long does the oil take to warm up without the coolant running through it now? Just wondering how adverse this would be living in a winter climate
oil only takes about 5minutes to get up to 160F. Daily driving I see a normal Temp of 187-194 varying between 55-80mph.


Would love to hear more about your oil temp and pressure set-up as I'd rather have actual reading than the calculated values displayed on the dash/Cobb AP. I've hesitated modifying the cooling system and add my oil cooler for a while now since that would render the oil temp and pressure reading the car does display inaccurate and I need those to dictate when I take my cool down laps.


I believe the Mountune oil cooler that the OP has deletes the coolant from the oil cooler as well, so it's basically the same as what you have.

Also, on the pics, is that green sensor the oil temp gauge?
If he has the mountune it does delete the coolant lines I believe as well. It’s basically the same thing at 2.5x the cost. My option is a bit cheaper running only 200 for the cooler and 30 for the gasket and filter housing.

the sensor is just the sending unit Sensor. It’s a single wire.

the gauge setup is pretty sweet. I removed the factory fake gauge pod and installed the pro sports because the can be piggy backed off each other for power. I ran the power and ground to the passengers side floor fuse box. The oil temp sensor is on the sandwich plate Inlet to the cooler and the oil pressure is up by the head where the Allen key is next to the intake manifold. the coolant I bought an eBay temp sensor housing for $20 and cut the coolant hose and put it in with Work gear hose clamps.

When I get back from my vacation/business conference I can get some pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
We have noticed a 5-7 degree temp difference on the oil and ~10 on the coolant on the access port Vs the independent gauges. The readings are based on 215 oil temps and 220 coolant temps.
That is very interesting info. I have COBB accesstuner and already returned oil/coolant safety limits to factory setting. I can try to move it +5-7 but generally it will not solve my problem. Will try to look for some aftermarket hood with vents.

Also I'm thinking to add one more additional coolant radiator and place it instead of fog light (left/right or both :D). Does somebody know if there is some aftermarket solution exist? Don't like to do custom solution by my own:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
On that day my friends, EvoIX and EvoX owners, had no overhitting issues, but they told me they are using water spray to reduce the temps. That is also could be an option to solve the problem.
Below is the video that shows that such solution may work
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What's the fastest do you get on that track?
On this weekend I'm planing to visit bigger track with 100 - 125miles speed on the straights. Will report here if the overhitting problem also present on such type of track.

ps. I was planing to bring my RS to nürburgring but with such overheating issues I will be not able to complete even one lap :(
 

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Many have tried and failed to address overheating.

Over to you @Shimmer
I won’t be needing my oem fog lamp locations for lights . 👊🏻😉 but I will show some car porn in about a month or so. I’ve been shy and posted little for reasons.😈 let’s just say I now can hold 8qts of oil 🤫
 

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On this weekend I'm planing to visit bigger track with 100 - 125miles speed on the straights. Will report here if the overhitting problem also present on such type of track.

ps. I was planing to bring my RS to nürburgring but with such overheating issues I will be not able to complete even one lap :(
I am doing laps on the ring with mine, I don’t have your set up and I don’t overheat. I already replied to you in a different thread you made. I also advised you to hit tracks where you can dump that heat soak with a bit to fresh air. If you overheat on those tracks too you got a fault in hour cooling system.


I will be at the Ring in Wednesday installing a new suspension with Manthey Racing. If I have time I will test the car on track and film it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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I honestly think the on track cooling issues in general with the RS is people asking too much of a this particular road car. Here's a few of the issues I see for the RS.
A radiator that sits behind an a/c condenser and an intercooler
A radiator that is marginal for the track in summer conditions
People install an oil to air cooler in front of the already overworked radiator
A radiator thats also covering PTU cooling.
A very tight installation with regards to engine clearance and poor exhausting from the radiator.
No hood ventilation to help mitigate the above.
What to do? That depends on how dedicated you are to the track but installing an oil to air heat exchanger in front of the radiator takes the load off the radiator on one hand and gives it back with the other.Mount the oil cooler somewhere else.
Upgrade the radiator and lose the a/c condenser.
Run a separate PTU cooler.
Run an upgraded intercooler
Use a richer map at the track. Extra fuel is extra cooling, to a degree.
Water meth injection at the track.

At the end of the day all cars have limitations at the track in standard configuration. With the RS it's the cooling. Even in production car racing you'd be surprised how modified the cars are to survive the track.

Ciao
 

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Would agree with most. The engine bay is so cramped with the air intake tube blocking flow, it´s hard to imagine how all that heat-soaked air is supposed to be disposed of. Installing an oil cooler in front of the radiator makes little sense IMHO, because you just prioritize oil cooling over the much more efficient water cooling in that important place. I generally think that the open-deck Mazda-derived engine does not have the coolant capacity for high power track use, it's a dated platform. And if you look at the fast VW Golfs, even they have additiional radiators mounted left and right of the main radiator. In any case, I would try running a more water-biased coolant mixture. The energy water can take up without heating compared to antifreez is nothing to sneeze at. Hood vents yes, but in the right place. The ones you see everywhere probably don't do much because they are placed where outflow is not needed the most. NACA duct on the passenger´s side of the bonnet to air cool the turbo/ hot back side of the engine might be worth a try, and that area isn´t blocked. Not sure about looks though, LOL.
 

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Yesterday I drove 1 hour in Germany to see how my temperatures fare.
Outside was 29 centigrade / 84.2 F.
Speeds were 105 mph to 155 mph with two instances where I got cut off and my front rotors show my emergency braking.
On hour at these speeds and I drained half a tank :eek:. I had around 9 mpg ...

Coolant temp was registered via OBD as : 90C / 194F.
Oil temp measured as well : 105-110C / 221F-230F.
Not track conditions, the engine was working hard for a very long period of time with plenty of fresh air at those speeds to breathe.

@lucky phil

You are 1000% correct.
This car is not a track tool.
There are limits and blocking the already air starved radiator with other parts does not bode well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
To avoid duplicates I will continue in this topic only. So, basically Ford announced that their RS can do track runs for 30 mins without any problems. Reading that I event can't think about such overheating problems. From my side I believe I added best mods to avoid overheating, that is CSF cooler radiator + water and redline water wetter, CSF oil cooler + redline 5w50 oil, ETS intercooler + all pipings, etc.
Today I tacked my RS on higher speed track, 3km (1.86miles) length, average lap time is 1.30m. The temperature was hot again 34C (94F).
342053
So, I got overhitting on the 4 split, that is mean I wasn't able to finish one simple lap... really disappointed in this car
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I remember when my Ford RS was without mods I done the lap above in 1.27.2 without any overheating issues. And then I added COBB and intake, then exhaust, and so on... and from that time I wasn't able to get the stock car time :( Next week I will get custom ECU tuning to get rid of s**it COBB maps, hope that will help.
 
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