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Discussion Starter #1
The RS-specific Jack Rails have arrived!!! A first batch is in stock and ready for shipping!!

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Thanks again for all of the Owner Community feedback! Left to our own devices, we would have had these coated in a Ford Race Red color. However, thanks to (mostly constructive) feedback, we went with a dark metallic gunmetal gray color. We’re really happy with the way they turned out.

For those that may be new to the party, the RS is a pain in the rear to lift properly. The OEM lift points are not easy to access and if you lift from them, it is hard to place a jack stand where your jack is! Traditional pinch-weld lifting is compromised because the unique lower body cladding actually overlaps the pinch welds… particularly right where you’d want to lift the car.

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Have a look at the attached pictures. We placed some painters tape on the lower cladding to show you where the Jack Rails are. Basically, if you want to insert the jack blind, the halfway point between the front edge of the door handle and back edge of the mirror will pretty much land you right on the Jack Rail. But, perhaps one of the nicest features of the Jack Rails is that they are right at the fore/aft CG of the car. So, lifting at the Jack Rail will lift the front and back evenly. You can then place your jack stands, swap wheels, etc. DON’T try lifting here without the Jack Rails as this is the area where the cladding is over the pinch weld (see close-up pic of the floor jack under our Jack Rail.

Finally, some of you had envisioned that the Jack Rails would sit low and be susceptible to get struck by road debris, etc. However, this is really not the case. We designed them to be just about invisible and they are only fractionally lower than the seam weld… They blend right in with the underbody of the car and are not even noticeable…. Until you want to use them.

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The Jack Rails are CNC milled from 6061 billet aluminum and then they are completely powdercoated. We think most owners will opt to install these themselves so the kit includes a drill bit that is used to fractionally enlarge existing OEM holes and a rivet nut installation tool.

They can be ordered from our website here: RS Jack Rails - CoolTechLLC
 

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Literally just ordered the front plate mount earlier today. Anyway I could get a set thrown in with to save on shipping? Message me if you need my personal info.

Thanks
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Literally just ordered the front plate mount earlier today. Anyway I could get a set thrown in with to save on shipping? Message me if you need my personal info.
Sure, I'll email you.
 

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So... I'm going to be that guy.

Doesn't seem too hard if you just have to enlarge an existing hole.

That being said - can an idiot like me that suffers from OCD/ADD/some other alphabets install this no problem?

I can change my own oil. I installed mud flaps. I changed the fogs to LED lights.

Baby steps over here...
 

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Woot gonna grab these. Just bought a quickjack yesterday but these will be great for at the track when I don't want to bring the quickjack with.
 

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Not a bad price. Are the install instructions downloadable on your site? I always like to read the instructions before I buy anything i plan on installing myself.
 

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Just ordered. Did a wheel swap and oil change last weekend. Major PITA with the jack and jack stands fighting for the same space.
Are there no central jack points on the front and rear where you can jack up the car on the front/rear part of the frame and then place the jack stands on the pinch welds (with jack pads of course)?
 

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Are there no central jack points on the front and rear where you can jack up the car on the front/rear part of the frame and then place the jack stands on the pinch welds (with jack pads of course)?
Asking the important questions here. Seriously, its hard to think the car has no central jack points. I remember on my old WRX there was a central point in the front but on the rear you jacked it up on the differential.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Are there no central jack points on the front and rear where you can jack up the car on the front/rear part of the frame and then place the jack stands on the pinch welds (with jack pads of course)?
There are (4) designated OEM jack points - where a narrow section of seam weld can be targeted with presumably the proper adapter. In addition, there are a few suspension mount points that can bear the weight of the car and these can be used to lift the car as well. At the fore/aft CG area (to lift both wheels on a side evenly), the body cladding actually overlaps the pinch weld. I suppose you can lift from there regardless, but sooner or later that pinch weld will knife-edge its way through the cladding. Still, it wouldn't really be that visible but I don't think owners want that.

Our Jack Rails - just as they are VERY popular with Mustangs, etc. are a convenience item. Relatively easy to install and then they provided a convenient, fast, easy-to-access, place to lift the car. For owners who want to swap rims/tires - just 1 lift per side is needed. Similarly, for someone who wants to work under their car, it's one lift per side to place the jack stands. No need to worry about body cladding or having to buy a lower profile jack to reach under to a suspension mount.
 

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