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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The similarities and differences in coatings available on the market are quite striking. All true coatings are ceramic based, ceramic being a term meaning inorganic. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceramic) Organics such as sealants are carbon based and as such wear away over time, ceramic in itself is permanent, being as it’s inorganic.

Coatings are characterised by their silicon content (not silicone), and 2 principal variations of silicon are used. The most common is Silicon Dioxide, sometimes marketed as glass, quartz or ceramic and in all cases that’s true. SiO2 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon_dioxide) is suspended in a resin in the form of Nano particles of Silicon Dioxide, and the resins suspend this in a film over the paint. SiO2 has a melting point of 1,600 °C (2,910 °F; 1,870 K) and on the Mohs scale of hardness is a 7 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale_of_mineral_hardness).

The other coating system is Silicon Carbide, SiC (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon_carbide). Opti-Coat Pro is the only coating available
that harnesses the strengths of Silicon Carbide (sometimes referred to as ceramic, industrial diamonds and carborundum). Unlike SiO2 based coatings the SiC based coating actually bonds to the paint and the SiC is formed as a chemical reaction in that process, not by having Nano particles of the ceramic floating in a resin. SiC is superior to SiO2 coatings chemically and has a melting point of 2,730 °C (4,950 °F; 3,000 K) and is a 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness.

Opti-Coat Pro is unique in many ways because of this fundamental difference in chemistry. Opti-Coat—Pro becomes one with the paint instead of suspending nano particles of a harder substance in a resin. This gives Opti-Coat Pro far superior chemical resistance, as the chemical must break down the SiC, and not break down a resin holding SiO2 nano particles. OCP is harder than other coatings, but no coating is scratch proof. To obtain maximum strength other coatings require heat curing and multiple layers, with OCP that’s not required. SiO2 coatings obtain their maximum gloss immediately, and that gloss drops off over time, Opti-Coat Pro obtains it’s maximum gloss once the polymerization (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymerization) process is completed (roughly 7 days). Opti-Coat Pro will maintain its gloss over time, SiO2 coatings start losing their gloss through oxidation and it continues to drop, requiring the need to add periodically some form of resin to maintain or restore the gloss and protection.
 

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I got a quote for an expel front hood bumper front fender and side view mirrors as well as a ceramic coat for 895 🏻🏻🏻. He is doing my Lexus as well


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Cool info, thanks. Guess with global warming and all, having that higher melting point might come in handy...lol
Soooo, if the RS catches fire, thereally is a good chance the paint will still be there. Dunno about the body, engine or any other part of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got a quote for an expel front hood bumper front fender and side view mirrors as well as a ceramic coat for 895 ������. He is doing my Lexus as well


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Thats a heck of a deal...someones either hurting for work or isn't actually offering those specific products. I was quoted 2k for a full front end of XPEL...and this was after I did all the prep work.
 

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Yeah I'm agree on the deal 🏻. I can't pass it up and it is for xpel. I'm not sure of the brand name of the coating but he does a bunch of Italian exotics and said he was hoping someone in the area was getting an Rs


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i thought about the Opti coat pro ...but will opt for the Gloss coat instead.

Over the years, you will accumulate swirls even with careful washing techniques. With Opti Coat Pro you'll need to bring it back to your detailer to correct and re coat the panel.

With Gloss coat, you can polish the coating off yourself (saving your clear coat), and then re coat. Yes Gloss coat is not Permanent like Opti coat pro, but I'm using Gloss Coat to save my clear coat
when I do need to do correction, and it is much cheaper than Opti coat service.

Of course I understand not all of us on this forum are hobby detailers...so I understand those that will just take it to a professional for the Opti coat pro.
I got quoted $300 for opti lens application with correction.....$200 just for application. Bought opti lens ($54), and will be doing the correction myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got quoted $300 for opti lens application with correction.....$200 just for application. Bought opti lens ($54), and will be doing the correction myself.
Can you elaborate on this? What are you using OptiLens for that you we're quoted 300$?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just bought myself an S2000 with slightly foggy headlight. Asked an Opti Coat Pro installer, how much it would be for opti lens. Those were the numbers he gave me.
That's insane...I charge 75$ for a headlight restoration, which includes the application of OptiLens.
 

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i thought about the Opti coat pro ...but will opt for the Gloss coat instead.

Over the years, you will accumulate swirls even with careful washing techniques. With Opti Coat Pro you'll need to bring it back to your detailer to correct and re coat the panel.

With Gloss coat, you can polish the coating off yourself (saving your clear coat), and then re coat. Yes Gloss coat is not Permanent like Opti coat pro, but I'm using Gloss Coat to save my clear coat
when I do need to do correction, and it is much cheaper than Opti coat service.

Of course I understand not all of us on this forum are hobby detailers...so I understand those that will just take it to a professional for the Opti coat pro.
I got quoted $300 for opti lens application with correction.....$200 just for application. Bought opti lens ($54), and will be doing the correction myself.
I am not sure you need opti-coat on your lens. There are a lot less expensive methods to clear foggy headlights: How to Clean Your Car Headlights (with Pictures)

YMMV,

MidCow3
 

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I was just PM'ing another member about my opticoat experience on my Fiesta ST. I'll cut and paste it here...

I have mixed feelings about opti-coat. I may get a little long winded but I want to give you a detailed and honest run down of my experience and the opinion it has given me.

First off, I went with Opti-Coat Pro +, their highest end product, its supposed to add more protection, gloss, and hydrophobic properties. It cost me 1250 for the entire car (I also got opti-glass pro on the windows... that was another 100 dollars, so 1350 for the whole car minus the wheels). Now, for this price I expected a lot, and after following the progression of opti-coat for several years I figured my expectations would be meet or exceeded. I wouldn't go so far as to say I'm disappointed with the sealant, but it did not meet or exceed my expectations.

The two primary things I was looking for were:
1.) I wanted to watch the water fall away from the car like it was scared to be on it and
2.) I expected to have to clean the car much less.
Neither of these are true. The water beads as it would a very high end wax, so obviously the paint is protected, but the hydrophobic properties were disappointing, the Fiesta ST has a lot of angles, but the water beads seam to just sit, even on some of the harsher angles that one would expect them to start rolling away. I imagined coming out after a rain and finding very little water on the car. Not at all the case. The silver lining is that you can tell the paint is sealed very well and thus protected, the water beading is fantastic, the sort of stuff you see from a very very high end detailers aircraft grade wax. I just wanted the water to run away because Opti-Coat is supposedly so "hydrophobic".
I am also finding I wash the car just as much, since the water still remains on the car, environmental fallout has just as much to cling to as it would otherwise.

So far what its worth, the opti-coat is indeed holding up great and protecting the paint, its just not everything I thought it would be. I don't have any experience with XPEL, but it looks like a great product. If I were only choosing between Opti-Coat and XPEL I would probably just go with the XPEL since its cheaper and hand wax, but if you can afford that complete set up that would be pretty amazing protection to have the XPEL under the Opticoat.

With all that being said, I believe I will be looking for a Ceramic PRO 9H installer for the RS, as I think it covers everything. Its a newer product but it looks like a much better and more versatile product than opticoat. Here is a link to some video's that show some ridiculous stuff Videos paint protection CeramicproVideos
 

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Opti lens is used to protect after the correction is done.

Xpel has its own set of drawbacks.
If you leave it on for many years 10+, it may pull paint off the car. Most clear bra are designed to be removed after a few years, which still has no guarantees that it won't pull the paint with it. Porsche owners put clear bra on their 911 head light, and it pulled the protective layer of the headlight along with it. You still need special products to maintain the condition of the clear bra.

If you want a product that sheets water use collinite 845, look at some videos on YouTube and you'll be amazed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I was just PM'ing another member about my opticoat experience on my Fiesta ST. I'll cut and paste it here...

I have mixed feelings about opti-coat. I may get a little long winded but I want to give you a detailed and honest run down of my experience and the opinion it has given me.

First off, I went with Opti-Coat Pro +, their highest end product, its supposed to add more protection, gloss, and hydrophobic properties. It cost me 1250 for the entire car (I also got opti-glass pro on the windows... that was another 100 dollars, so 1350 for the whole car minus the wheels). Now, for this price I expected a lot, and after following the progression of opti-coat for several years I figured my expectations would be meet or exceeded. I wouldn't go so far as to say I'm disappointed with the sealant, but it did not meet or exceed my expectations.

The two primary things I was looking for were:
1.) I wanted to watch the water fall away from the car like it was scared to be on it and
2.) I expected to have to clean the car much less.
Neither of these are true. The water beads as it would a very high end wax, so obviously the paint is protected, but the hydrophobic properties were disappointing, the Fiesta ST has a lot of angles, but the water beads seam to just sit, even on some of the harsher angles that one would expect them to start rolling away. I imagined coming out after a rain and finding very little water on the car. Not at all the case. The silver lining is that you can tell the paint is sealed very well and thus protected, the water beading is fantastic, the sort of stuff you see from a very very high end detailers aircraft grade wax. I just wanted the water to run away because Opti-Coat is supposedly so "hydrophobic".
I am also finding I wash the car just as much, since the water still remains on the car, environmental fallout has just as much to cling to as it would otherwise.

So far what its worth, the opti-coat is indeed holding up great and protecting the paint, its just not everything I thought it would be. I don't have any experience with XPEL, but it looks like a great product. If I were only choosing between Opti-Coat and XPEL I would probably just go with the XPEL since its cheaper and hand wax, but if you can afford that complete set up that would be pretty amazing protection to have the XPEL under the Opticoat.

With all that being said, I believe I will be looking for a Ceramic PRO 9H installer for the RS, as I think it covers everything. Its a newer product but it looks like a much better and more versatile product than opticoat. Here is a link to some video's that show some ridiculous stuff Videos paint protection CeramicproVideos
I think your placing unrealistic expectations on coatings and this can be your own doing via watching to many dumb videos of idiots lighting coatings on fire or hitting them with a lighter, or the installer didn't provide you with an accurate description of what to expect moving forward. They aren't an invisible force field that prevents anything from touching your vehicle. Coatings are very hydrophobic, but this doesn't mean you should expect to walk out to a dry vehicle after its rained.

So to your first expectation, the sheeting of water really only occurs with larger volumes of water that's running from a hose or poured from a bottle. As to your second expectation, coatings will reduce the amount of environmental contaminants that remain on the vehicle but won't prevent them. I personally haven't washed my vehicle in almost a month and it looks cleaner than 90% of the vehicle on the road. If you want your vehicle to be spotless, then expect to wash it regularly, regardless of the form of protection.

As to your direction for protecting your RS, expect more work with the CPro 9H. It requires multiple layers to achieve its 9h rating. As the OP states, it's a glass coating (which means it degrades). For this reason, you'll have to return to have additional coatings applied to retain its protective properties. I can personally tell you that a client of mine that had two vehicles protected with OCP+ (I did those) and one with cp9h (another shop), isn't happy with the cp9h. The coating has terrible water spotting and I'll be compounding off the coating in the spring and applying OCP+.
 

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I think your placing unrealistic expectations on coatings and this can be your own doing via watching to many dumb videos of idiots lighting coatings on fire or hitting them with a lighter, or the installer didn't provide you with an accurate description of what to expect moving forward. They aren't an invisible force field that prevents anything from touching your vehicle. Coatings are very hydrophobic, but this doesn't mean you should expect to walk out to a dry vehicle after its rained.

So to your first expectation, the sheeting of water really only occurs with larger volumes of water that's running from a hose or poured from a bottle. As to your second expectation, coatings will reduce the amount of environmental contaminants that remain on the vehicle but won't prevent them. I personally haven't washed my vehicle in almost a month and it looks cleaner than 90% of the vehicle on the road. If you want your vehicle to be spotless, then expect to wash it regularly, regardless of the form of protection.

As to your direction for protecting your RS, expect more work with the CPro 9H. It requires multiple layers to achieve its 9h rating. As the OP states, it's a glass coating (which means it degrades). For this reason, you'll have to return to have additional coatings applied to retain its protective properties. I can personally tell you that a client of mine that had two vehicles protected with OCP+ (I did those) and one with cp9h (another shop), isn't happy with the cp9h. The coating has terrible water spotting and I'll be compounding off the coating in the spring and applying OCP+.
I totally admit to expecting a bit much, and without doubt was caught years back on the opti-coat video hype train. I knew not to expect a dry car per-say, but I didn't think it'd look identical to a waxed car. I am indeed a bit of a clean freak, I'm the kind of guy who'll pull off the road at the first chance to wipe bird droppings away, was just hoping to extend my cleanings to once a week or greater, I find myself washing every 4 days or so (the rear and the front fenders on the FiST pile up grime quick). I've come to learn a bit more about it as time has passed, and I'm fine with it, I think it does a great job of protecting, and ultimately thats why I bought it. I just also wanted some of the mythical video and forum results and was a bit let down, but as you pointed out that is largely due to expecting consistent video/forum results from an inconsistent real world.

Very good to hear from you and get you and your clients' experience. Looks like I have more research to do yet (story of my life lol)!
 
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