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945 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Initial impression: gorgeous

4 mm socket or adjustable wrench - stud for stock turbo side intake piece
7 mm nut driver or ratchet - intake cover and stock clamps
8 mm ratchet wrench or nut drivers - COBB clamps
10 mm nut driver or ratchet - nut on stud for stock turbo side piece and "RS" intake piece bolt


Remove the engine cover.

Remove bolt on "RS" intake piece, nut/stud from turbo side piece, and plastic intake cover grommet screw. None of these are reused.

Remove the intake lid by loosening the four screws.
Don't unscrew the screws completely until you have removed the lid from the engine bay.
You will reuse these screws on the new intake cover.

Remove the air filter.

Unfasten the rubber flap over the induction tube for the intake.

Loosen the stock clamps.

I pulled the Air filter lower assembly out and rested it on the intake manifold (I was installing the COBB shift plate).

Remove the rubber elbow piece.

Unhook the tube connected the backside of the "RS" piece.

Remove the "RS" piece by pulling it away from the turbo side piece.

Remove the PCV valve connector on the back side of the turbo side pipe. Squeeze the bottom portion and pull it out.

Remove the turbo side pipe. Slide it back and forth then pull up.

Install prep:
Install rubber grommet into the CFI tube, and then insert metal ring.

Place the four screws on intake cover.

Install necked down silicone coupler on the CFI tube. Ensure the clamp screw faces the passenger side of the engine bay.


I re-wrapped the CFI tube with the packing material while I placed it in the engine bay.

Install the CFI tube on the turbo.

Install the elbow on the CFI tube. W

Reinstall the lower airbox if removed earlier. Connect the elbow to the lower airbox as it is reinstalled.

Install the screw in the grommet of the CFI tube.

Tighten down all of the clamps.

Install air filter, with the included clamp (or not).

Install the intake lid. Ensure it is properly aligned prior to tightening the screws.

Limited driving review:

The FORD CARBON FIBER INTAKE SYSTEM FOCUS RS 2016-2018 <--fixed that for you COBB... I'll just call it the CFI.
The intake looks amazing. I'm not a fan of carbon fiber EVERYTHING, but I do like the look.

Weight: The intake tube is featherweight, especially when compared to the stock tubes. The same goes for the intake lid. Overall the system saves around 3 lbs compared to the stock intake with a K&N filter. I would imagine very few people are looking into the CFI for the weight reduction anyway!

Fit: Overall the fit was good. I didn't run into any issues with clearance or having to make adjustments.

Finish: I expected it to have some minor flaws. But it really didn't. The packaging held up very well and I didn't see any scratches or chips in the tube or the cover. I haven't noticed any bunched up areas. The tube has seams, which are expected. Could they have been hidden better? Maybe, but I couldn't do better. The elbow coupler should have a notch to match up with the stock plastic elbow. If anything in the finish bothers me it is the hose clamps. They look cheap, and the screw is gold. All of the clamps are non-marring and don't have to hold boost, so I suppose they will do (for now).

Sound: To me it sounds exactly like the Mishimoto intake on start up. Louder than stock, with more intake and turbo noise. When you get on the gas it sounds awesome. It gets the "whistle" from the resonator. I'll be ordering a sound suppression chamber.

Performance: \No butt dyno. \ I'll wait until I have driven it for a few weeks to see if I "feel" like anything is better or worse.

Here is the video for now. Cold start comparison, Stock with K&N versus COBB CFI


945 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Other than the resonance you picked up not sure it sounds any different.

Why no butt dyno results? There wasn't any change?

It's a gorgeous piece

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Butt dynos are stupid. Also I wouldn’t expect a change, but I haven’t gone for a drive.

945 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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