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Hey @DeltaT, as you know, I am loving this thread. My built engine has similar base and specs. I wonder with the closed deck and beefier side walls, what the weight differential is between the blocks? Every car manufacturer is looking to shave pounds everywhere.
 

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There's a video in this thread about the 2.3 block's known-weak areas: stock 2.3 block

But here's the critical area compared:

View attachment 272810

This is the best shot I have of the unpainted blocks oriented the identical way. Look at the difference in mass and reinforcement in the 2.0. Section B on the 2.0 has an entire outer wall where the 2.3 has a deep depression, and Section A isn't much better. On the left side my 2.0 block is masked for painting with blue tape on all the machined surfaces.
Yep the 2.0 block is massively unrefined and under engineered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Hey @DeltaT , as you know, I am loving this thread. My built engine has similar base and specs. I wonder with the closed deck and beefier side walls, what the weight differential is between the blocks? Every car manufacturer is looking to shave pounds everywhere.
I doubt if they managed to exceed 6-8lbs. of weight savings by going to the minimalist 2.3 block, but they sure took the weight out where modders need it!
 

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Few guys over on the ST forums doing 2.3 stroker builds with excellent results. Great thread!
 

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Did you mean 2.3?
Nope. As a powertrain designer/engineer of 25 years I see all that extra mass in the 2.0L as just that, extra unneeded mass. At the stock power levels as designed the 2.3L is a much more refined design.
 
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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
At the stock power levels as designed the 2.3L is a much more refined design.
Agreed, but once you start turning up the wick that extra mass becomes useful, particularly in the deck, head retention and cylinder support areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Well if you want to play then you call folks like this. :smile-new:
CN Blocks ~ Why Billet?
Sure, that and a 100% custom carbon fiber body are tops on my list :greedy_dollars:

I have been super busy, and then the truck's tranny decided to crap out, went from normal to whiny in 10 days, so I had to pull that and put in another unit, plus all the "while I'm in there" work.

I have some stuff to post about the rod bearing clearances, they are all spot on, but the new Rev B head and valve compressor tool showed up so I am playing with that right now - I want to see how the ports look stock.

Here's a few stock shots. First the new head and valve spring tool set:

Engine Auto part Tool accessory Machine

A couple stock intake ports:

Nose Auto part Glasses

Stock exhaust ports, labeled:

Auto part Automotive air manifold

The dowel holes are looser in the head than the block, so I stacked two dowels to get enough height to use them to locate the Rev C head gasket to see if any gasket matching is needed on the head side, just like I did on the block:

Auto part Nut Hardware accessory Flange Household hardware

Don't forget to remove the dowels before flipping the head over. Ask me how I know :(

Head marked up for touchup:

Auto part Automotive engine part Engine

One of the areas that needs a bit of matching:

Metal

Head marked but with gasket removed:

Auto part Metal Steel

I'm getting ready to try mounting the valve spring compressor and will post more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 · (Edited)
Got the head disassembled & gasket matched. The ports need some cleanup for sure; the intake ports have some particularly sharp, unneeded edges. It is overall a beautiful casting, though, and the universal overhead cam spring compressor kit worked like a champ. Here are some pictures.

Here's the head with all the upper cam retention HW removed - you need a flat surface for the spring compressor to attach:

Auto part Engine Automotive engine part

All the cam cap bolts are the same bolt which makes life easier. My 4 sacrificial valves are also shown, marked as IS A, IS B and ES A and ES B. Notice that each cam cap is marked for its position, same (but not shown) on each intake cap:

Auto part Tool Tool accessory Metal

The compressor bolted up easily and was a breeze to use. I could do 6 of 8 of each intake and exhaust valves, then I needed to flip the compressor brackets around to get the final 2 each intake and exhaust out:

Auto part Engine Vehicle

TIP: Have a magnetic tool, preferably a strong but small diameter one. It helps with getting the socket or HW out of the many holes in the head when you drop stuff, and will also help remove the valve keepers when you compress the valvespring.

And the compressor in action - place a clean rag under the cylinder chamber you are working on to keep the valves from moving when you push down on the retainer:

Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Transmission part

Count the valve keepers before putting them away - nothing worse than one missing when it's time to assemble:

Electronic component Metal Brass Technology Electronic device

Here all the valves and springs are out, and I've gasket matched each hole as I marked yesterday. On the head side it is better to match the holes a bit small then to make them too large:

Auto part Metal Rim

Raw exhaust ports, not awful but will get some work:

Auto part Rim Wheel Metal

And the raw intakes, which need more bowl work, and all need some chamber smoothing and blending:

Auto part Wheel Rim Automotive wheel system Flange

The sacrificial valves in place - before I do any chamber work I need to plug the spark plug hole with an Allen plug or maybe an old spark plug with the electrode clipped off. The area around the direct injector will get left alone:

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Are you doing pre and post volume checks? Maybe deck the block after to get your numbers back?
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Are you doing pre and post volume checks? Maybe deck the block after to get your numbers back?
Maybe check the volume on the chambers but I don't intend to hog out the ports, mostly clean them up, texture the intakes to an 80-grit as they will now receive fuel (via the secondary injectors). Most of the work will be in the bowl areas. The casting, like the block, is quite clean. The block was decked after Panda did the plugging so I don't need to worry about that, but I might do a skim cut on the head when it's all reworked.

I am going to start a separate thread on the head porting as I have started that as well.

The build is going slowly; I picked up another machine shop as a quality consultant so I am pretty busy.

Here I am measuring each rod's big end, then I did the same with the bearings in and torqued, then did the subtraction to determine the final clearance. Finally I did a piece of Plasti-Gage like I did on the main bearing as a sanity check. They were all in spec as well:

Machine

The Manley pistons are nicely machined but there are some edges I thought were too sharp, so I started massaging each piston, smoothing down all the machined edges to prevent hot spots then polishing the entire top. It's a little hard to see but here's the stock piston, you can see machining marks in the bowl:

Auto part Wheel Automotive wheel system Hubcap Rim

And after about 1.5 hours work on the 'A' piston, here's side-by-side with an untouched one. There only thing left is to super-shine it on the big buffer:

Wheel Auto part Audio equipment Alloy wheel Rim
 

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As always good work man :applause: i like the route you went with pistons!!
 

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delta ,from previous experience the .the 2.3 ecoboost rods on a 2.0 block will result in lower compression ratio an your pistons hitting the oil nozzles on the bottom

fix for this is the use of mazda MZR 2.3 rods which have a .050 extra center to center length going from 5.875 to 5.925
 

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Hi

I'm rebuilding the ST 2.0 engine
I want to put in it

Piston heads from RS mk3 2.3
Turbo from RS mk3 2.3
Genuine Ford forged crankshaft 2.3 RS
Manley 2.3 Ecoboost Hbeam Rod set

I have already bought everything
 
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