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Discussion Starter #1
I like building my own motors so I didn't want to buy someone's short block. I also wanted the proven strength of the closed-deck ST block, with the displacement of the RS. The ST block is a straight bolt-in to the RS drivetrain and will work with our head with mods by Panda. I think this is generic enough to warrant its own thread.

I will post pictures, document the process, create lists of parts needed and measurements taken.

I am starting with a brand new Focus ST block, P/N AG9Z-6010-D but machined through Panda Motorsports:

Panda Spec-H 2.0 Block_1.jpg

They plug at least one hole in the block to make it compatible with the RS head. I had them machine to the following:

  1. Install & torque head studs and torque plate before honing to stock 87.5mm bore. The bore cleans up nicely at this size and I'll have material if I ever need to bore it again.
  2. Install main studs & torque main studs before align honing to spec.
  3. Plug any holes needed to be compatible with RS head, before decking the block

Close-up of bore:

P1100692.JPG

Today I cleaned (with no-residue electrical cleaner) then masked the transmission side of the block so I can paint it and put it on the engine stand. Next up are some basic measurements: bores, mains and deck height. If the block is acceptable, I'll start deburring it. I saw some casting flash today that will need removal and I'll clean all that up including any on the main girdle (lower main bridge piece). Once the deburring is done I will clean the rest of the outside, then finish painting. After painting I'll do the final cleaning. Parallel to this will be checking all the parts and clearances.

For block paint I am using Rustoleum Specialty High Temp Ultra in silver, good through 1200F once cured.

I started by masking the entire rear of the block, then trimming the painter's tape so that all the machined surfaces are masked but all the plain casting faces that I want to paint are exposed:

Block Masking1.jpg

And finished view:

Block Masking2.jpg

The edge near the bottom of the picture will get its own piece of tape then a clean edge cut before painting.

Tomorrow I'll do 2 coats on the masked side, let it dry and get it up on the engine stand. It's much easier to do all the measuring on the stand although this thing is light enough that I could put it on the workbench if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I bought a bare ST block. And that means bare, no hardware. And some parts won't transfer over from the RS motor, and those that will aren't available as I plan to drive the RS until this motor is ready for the swap. So I'm tracking down all the little bits needed for this thing. I will post them here, along with where I found the best deal.

-Tool Section-

I'm buying a few tools that I don't have that are generally specific to this build. Will add as needed. This forum editor doesn't handle Excel tables well, but they seem to be legible.

Part Number
Tool NameQuantityPriceCommentsSourceStatusLink
Lang Tools 2584Metric Thread Chaser Set1$28.85Needed to clean all threads in blockAmazonOrderedhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XJ48V0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
NAFord 2.0L EcoBoost Engine Timing Set1$99.59Everything needed to install cams, lock the crank, etc.AmazonOrderedhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LBG3Y7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SME-90A3400Summit Adjustable Piston Ring Compressor1$28.97This size will handle our standard & oversize pistonsSummitOrderedhttps://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-90a3400

-Parts Section-

Ford Parts:

Part #
DescriptionSourceQuantityOrdered?Received?PriceExt. PriceLink
2.0 EB BlockNew, Plugged for RS, Fully Machined BlockPanda Motorsports1YY$1,600.00$1,600.00Contact Panda
Block ShippingPanda Motorsports1YY$100.00$100.00Contact Panda
EJ7Z6303BRS Crank, Non-keyedLakeland Ford1YY$218.00$218.00Shop around, prices change
CJ5Z6306CCrank gear for above crankLakeland Ford1YY$18.00$18.00Shop around, prices change
CJ5Z-6K255-AArm - Timing Chain TensionerFordPartsGiant.com1YY$14.00$14.00
CJ5Z-6268-ATiming ChainFordPartsGiant.com1YY$43.00$43.00
3M4Z-6279-AABoltFordPartsGiant.com2YN$4.20$8.40
1S7Z-6K282-AABoltFordPartsGiant.com2YN$3.63$7.26
CJ5Z-6K297-AChain GuideFordPartsGiant.com1YY$10.23$10.23
W703649-S300Hardware, Misc., PinFordPartsGiant.com1YN$1.24$1.24Makes you buy 4-pack
"W703643-S430"BoltFordPartsGiant.com2YN$2.09$4.18Makes you buy 4-pack
W500211-S437ScrewFordPartsGiant.com1YN$4.97$4.97
CJ5Z-6K254-BTensioner - Timing ChainFordPartsGiant.com1YY$28.24$28.24
1S7Z-6378-AADiamond WasherFordPartsGiant.com2YN$12.74$25.48
CJ5Z-6312-A PULLEY - CRANKSHAFT FordPartsGiant.com1YN$34.59$34.59Need to cut for key
1S7Z-6A340-AABolt, CrankshaftFordPartsGiant.com1YN$2.87$2.87
W706434-S437Pin - DowelFordPartsGiant.com1YN$2.34$2.34
W712022-S430A BOLT - HEX.HEAD , oil pumpFordPartsGiant.com4YN$5.58$22.32
W704397-S437 BOLT , oil pump relatedFordPartsGiant.com1YN$1.38$1.38
EJ7Z-6622-A Screen and Cover Assy, oil pickupFordPartsGiant.com1YN$6.13$6.13
W714695-S430 Bolt, oil pump relatedFordPartsGiant.com4YN$1.17$4.68
W706282-S430 Bolt, oil pump relatedFordPartsGiant.com4YN$3.42$13.68
W715848-S437 BoltFordPartsGiant.com4YN$0.59$2.36
W500328-S437Bolt, timing coverFordPartsGiant.com3YN$0.62$1.86Makes you buy 4-pack
W500300-S437Bolt, timing coverFordPartsGiant.com1YN$0.62$0.62Makes you buy 8-pack
W500215-S437Bolt, timing coverFordPartsGiant.com17YN$1.24$21.08Makes you buy 20
W701219-S437Bolt, crankshaft position sensorFordPartsGiant.com2YN$0.70$1.40Makes you buy 4-pack
W500224-S437Screw, oil panFordPartsGiant.com11YN$0.62$6.82Makes you buy 12
6M8Z-6C315-AA Sensor, CrankshaftFordPartsGiant.com1YN$43.70$43.70
CJ5Z-6750-ADipstickFordPartsGiant.com1YN$2.68$2.68
W706284-S437Bolt, oil panTascaparts.com2YN$4.32$8.64Shipping > parts, cheaper than FordPartsGiant

Round 2:
Part #DescriptionSourceQuantityOrdered?Received?PriceExt. PriceLink
W500310-S437Bolt, Knock SensorFordPartsGiant.com2YN$0.75$1.50Makes you buy 4-pack
E7RY-6397-ADowel PinFordPartsGiant.com5YN$1.56$7.80Makes you buy 4-packs
W701183-S300Dowel, BushFordPartsGiant.com2YN$0.62$1.24Makes you buy 4-pack
AG9Z-6K868-ANozzle, Piston CoolingFordPartsGiant.com4YN$14.40$57.60
W711691-S900Plug, Rivet TypeFordPartsGiant.com1YN$1.24$1.24Makes you buy 4-pack
W700115-S437Plug, Screw & Washer AssyFordPartsGiant.com1YN$4.97$4.97
W711692-S900Plug, 16mm rivetFordPartsGiant.com2YN$1.24$2.48Makes you buy 4-pack
W500211-S437Screw, Piston Cooling NozzlesFordPartsGiant.com4YN$4.97$19.88
1S7Z-12A699-BBNO ORDER - Knock sensor, move from RS2N$0.00
W500214-S437Screw, Separator Assy - OilFordPartsGiant.com8YN$0.84$6.72
AG9Z-6A785-ANO ORDER - Separator Assy, RS or aftermktN$0.00
EJ7Z-6758-ATBD - Tube Assy, valve cover to breather?N$0.00

Non-Ford Parts:

Part #
DescriptionSourcePriceLink
Man-637000CE-4Manley Extreme Duty Piston SetPanda Motorsports$660.00
Man-14434-4Manley Turbo Tuff RodsPanda Motorsports$686.00
151-5407ARP Main Stud Kit 2.3Speed Performance$119.00
151-4301ARP 12pt. Head Stud Kit 2.0, 2.3Lethal Performance
$169.86
King Bearings CR4604XPCon Rod Bearings, STDXAutoplicity$75.00
King Bearings MB5442XPMain Bearings, STDXAmazon$77.27
Massive Oil Tray & BSDMassive Trapped Oil Control System & BSDFocusRSShop$90.58
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rear of block painted, 2 coats, then unmasked to dry overnight:

Block Painting Rear1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did some cleanup on the main cap bridge, removing casting flash and and little nuggets that might come off.

It's a pretty clean casting overall, this was the worst:

Cleaned Up Main Cap Bridge2.jpg

After some smoothing:

Cleaned Up Main Cap Bridge3.jpg

The other 3 only needed a touch, but the outside frame needed some more work especially in the middle outer edges:

Cleaned Up Main Cap Bridge4.jpg

Pretty much done - I'll go over the sections tomorrow with a sanding roll:

Cleaned Up Main Cap Bridge1.jpg
 

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Subscribed! Also enthusiastic on following this. Don't every leave us hanging! LOL
 
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Today I went to the shop and removed the crank gear, .050" at a time (that's me at the lathe). As I suspected, the gear is a pressed-on piece. But it turned down easily and was a safer way to take it off. You could cut on both sides but you have stuff nearby that could get damaged. I got down to about .020" and the remainder was flexible enough to start moving off the crank.

Crank Gear Removal1.jpg

Crank Gear Removal2.jpg

And the finished product, weighing about 2.2lbs. less:

Crank Gear Removal Done.jpg

Then I test-fit the ARP main studs, which fit fine - as you can see I put both end sets and one inner stud in place:

Main Stud Trial Fit.jpg

I also wanted to compare the 2.0 Cometic head gasket I bought against the RS Rev. C gasket:

Cometic:

Cometic 2.0 Trial Fit.jpg

RS Rev. C:
Focus RS Rev C Head Gasket Trial Fit.jpg

Rev. C for the win! I will mark any hole in the block that is not a full match to the gasket and do some light grinding to match them. Nothing is far off.
 

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I also wanted to compare the 2.0 Cometic head gasket I bought against the RS Rev. C gasket:

Cometic:

View attachment 261386

RS Rev. C:
View attachment 261394

Rev. C for the win! I will mark any hole in the block that is not a full match to the gasket and do some light grinding to match them. Nothing is far off.

Maybe indicated in your "Rev C for the win" comment.... but anyone else notice that the Cometic has the coolant bridge hole on the opposite side?


Also, addendum, I like the cut of your jib, sir. Gonna watch this thread like a hawk.
 

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Maybe indicated in your "Rev C for the win" comment.... but anyone else notice that the Cometic has the coolant bridge hole on the opposite side?


Also, addendum, I like the cut of your jib, sir. Gonna watch this thread like a hawk.
Sorry, just noticed that it was a 2.0 Cometic Gasket, ignore.
 

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Today I went to the shop and removed the crank gear, .050" at a time (that's me at the lathe). As I suspected, the gear is a pressed-on piece. But it turned down easily and was a safer way to take it off. You could cut on both sides but you have stuff nearby that could get damaged. I got down to about .020" and the remainder was flexible enough to start moving off the crank......
Finally someone with a clue. I appreciate you removing the balancer drive gear as so many "high-end" shops do not bother. I'll carefully cut mine off when I pull the pan and remove the balancer to install a windage tray. Don't forget the tray!
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Finally someone with a clue. I appreciate you removing the balancer drive gear as so many "high-end" shops do not bother. I'll carefully cut mine off when I pull the pan and remove the balancer to install a windage tray. Don't forget the tray!
Massive tray & BSD is here, added it to the list, added a bunch of Ford parts as of today.
 

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What are you going to do with your head and valve train?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What are you going to do with your head and valve train?
I haven't decided to go high-end or low. High would be full CNC porting, spring & valves. Low would be me cleaning up the bowls and blending plus a general cleanup of the ports, where accessible. A cam set is a given, either Piper Fast Road or Esslinger 2.
 

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I'm curious why the block/machining was so much. Those blocks are ~$650 online (not including shipping). Did they break down the machining cost vs hardware cost?
 
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