[WVRS]

So are Ferodo DS2500 still the standard for what I’m looking for? I was super pleased with them in the past, but after not getting to do track days for two years I was just wondering if they would be safe to go back to, or if something else is a better option?

About to order new pads and rotors, so recommendations on where from? KNS was my usual in the past

 

[thirdgen89gta]

I've had no issues with OEM pads as long as the fluid is flushed with a high temp fluid. Some people don't like the dust, but honestly track pads dust worse than OEM anyways.

 

[WVRS]

I've had no issues with OEM pads as long as the fluid is flushed with a high temp fluid. Some people don't like the dust, but honestly track pads dust worse than OEM anyways.

No issues with tracking the stock pads you mean? It’s only going to be a weekend this year, likely anyway.

I think the stock pads are Ferodos anyway

 

[thirdgen89gta]

Yeah. All I did on my RS was flush with RBF600 fluid and run the original pads. So unless you are seriously hammering them hard I think fluid is all you’ll need.

 

[BigFatFlip]

No issues with tracking the stock pads you mean? It’s only going to be a weekend this year, likely anyway.

I tracked my RS fully stock for the first year of ownership. The brakes actually did very well on the track. I think I ended up glazing the pads/rotors by my 4th track day since I started to feel them "pulse" during heavy braking.

 

[aheadlan]

I find the stock brakes work great on track, catch a lot of faster cars going into (and through) the corners. They wear out pretty fast, but I lucked out there - my dealer said the pads were warrantied 'for life' and replaced them for free twice within a year before they realized what was up

 

[hyracer]

I agree with all the above, stock pads work very well for your first couple years of tracking. Once you've improved your driver mods you can start modding your RS to achieve faster times/braking.

 

[BigFatFlip]

I forgot to add: definitely swap to a higher temp brake fluid. I never tried the stock brake fluid on the track since I didn't want to chance it.

 

[gbassrace]

Great info. Plz anyone, list the first level up for the track and street if you have experience with both.

 

[Hemphog]

Carbotech XP8, Ferodo DS2500, or Hawk HP+ come to mind as a half step up as OEM pads are decent for dual daily, occasional track day for fun. Stepping up to real track pads above those will need a consious decision to give up cold stops on the street. Carbotech XP10 were tolerable if you took the first street stop easy.

 

[gbassrace]

You've run OE pads and all of those?

 

[gbassrace]

You could change them out for the track days though.

 

[bmwM3guy]

Red stuff pads are fantastic. That's what I have and I love them but I've never tracked my car.

 

[BigFatFlip]

Great info. Plz anyone, list the first level up for the track and street if you have experience with both.

I would add G-loc GS1's to that list. Similar cold bite and feel to the OEM pads but less dust (really, anything makes less dust compared to the OEM pads lol)

You could change them out for the track days though.

Unless you plan on swapping rotors as well, I would recommend getting pads with similar compounds. Easiest way is to just grab both street and track pads from the same manufacturer. This will save you from having to bed-in/rebed your brakes every time and lessen the risk of leaving deposits on your rotors, which can lead to vibrations/pulsing on the brake pedal and reduced performance.

In my case, run G-loc GS-1's for street then swap to their XP10/XP8 for the track.

 

[JamoRS]

Winmax W1 should also be added to the list.
As above similar cold bite as OEM with way less dust, and I haven't been able to get mine to fade pushing them super hard.

 

[DeanHart]

OEM

And Redstuff will not make it through a single session on the track, yellowstuff from EDC minimum.

 

[cannyboy]

I tried Hawk HP Plus Sport - Hyper sensitive and difficult to modulate and made obnoxious noise.
Stick with stock.