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Hi All,

Racing Brake report from WGI Track event.
Summary of my WGI Track experience with Racing Brake Big brake Kit for the RS

Kit includes: RB 15" Track Duty Big Brake Kit for Ford Focus ST/RS 2011+ (P/N 2564 & 2565)
Caliper Color: Hard Anodized
RB Brake Pads:XR70 - Racing (PD1666M-3R7) and tested RB XC-40 Full metallic sintered trackable street pad (Front)
Brake Lines: SS brake lines (RBL-040 & RBL- 041) front and rear

Stuff I used that is not part of this not in the kit.
Brake Fluid:I used Motul 660 (Motul 600 is an available option from RB).
Rear Brake pads I used GLoc R10
Ducted direct air brake cooling.

The WGI track event was a combined BMW and Porsche club event for advanced and higher drivers with open track format alternating two self-selected run groups; fast and faster. The weather was prefect, sunny in low to mid 80’s
Lap times are 2:14-2:15 with a 3400lbs RS. Back straight speeds are 138 mph. This is a workout for the brakes.

Results: XR-70 pads are a track/race pad that will require more development on pad life. RB is working on this.
The XC-40 Pads are a premium pad used by and known with the carbon rotor crowd. It is a great pad providing excellent stopping power, good initial bite, modulation is good on track (similar to OEM system on the street) and doesn’t fade. And I know you all have read reports of brakes, brake pads, etc that read like this but those of who have been following my tracking posts know I’ve not been at all happy with the OEM braking system with any pad and fluid upgrades.

Overall the RB system provided maximum track performance without any fade in performance lap after lap. This is the first sustainable braking system for this car that did not require me to pace my laps to allow my brakes to cool and come back.
Rotor temps (determined with temp sensitive paint) were 800 degrees C while the hub remained cool enough not to change the color of the temp sensitive paint (below 360 degrees C). Similar temps front and rear. (see tan color on the Rotor and red dot on the hub)

Disc brake Auto part Vehicle brake Brake Rotor



Pad wear for the XC-40 After a day of tracking is .620" over the back plates which is thicker than a new Hawk pad. New pad is about .670" so I wore .050 for the day. This provide 6-8 more track days.

Bumper Auto part



On the street I found the XC-40 to be livable, not obnoxiously noisy and in cold state stopping is acceptable. Even as a daily driver the pads are easy to swap out for street or track.

The guys at Racing Brake, Warren and Alex are great to work with, fast response and have been very helpful, stand behind their products and have top notch customer support. A pleasure to work with.

I'm very happy with the results. Its a huge improvement over the stock set up I'm so looking forward to my next track event in Sept. I’ll be working on plans for what I will be testing. Perhaps different pad options. Or since the car is were I want it I'll just focus on driving....
 

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I'm very happy with the results. Its a huge improvement over the stock set up I'm so looking forward to my next track event in Sept. I’ll be working on plans for what I will be testing. Perhaps different pad options. Or since the car is were I want it I'll just focus on driving....
Thanks for the update, Jay. This kit just bumped much higher on my list.

Jim
 

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Great write up,
I was at the Glen yesterday and Monday, except for braided brake lines, Carbotech pads, Motul 660 brake fluid and 18" wheel with continental r compounds my car is stock. I could not get over 130 on the back strait, I've never timed myself but was told that I'm in the 2:16, 2:17 range, this was my 7-8 the track days and I think my rotors are slighty warped and my brake fluid was defiantly boiled.
I'm looking for new 2 piece rotors, the kit that you have is out of my range right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 · (Edited)
The budgetary track set up would be Front stock & Rear BBK. But RB front two piece use beefier disc @350x28 (vs. OE 1pc 350x25) - The same disc as Porsche 911 997 rear; that we also used it for BMW 135i front BBK upgrade (Need adaptors 350x28 vs. OE's 338x28). A proven track set up for years in tracking communities.

Front (350x28mm): RacingBrake Front OE Two Piece Replacement Rotor for Ford Focus RS 2016+
Rear (350x12mm): RacingBrake Oversized Rear Two Piece Upgrade Rotor Kit for Ford Focus RS 2016+

Front and rear combo (save 10% than purchase separately)
https://www.racingbrake.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FOR-IRK-08

For complete options please click below and see the offering matrix.
Focus ST/RS (2011+)
 

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The budgetary track set up would be Front stock & Rear BBK. But RB front two piece use beefier disc @350x28 (vs. OE 1pc 350x25) - The same disc as Porsche 911 997 rear; that we also used it for BMW 135i front BBK upgrade (Need adaptors 350x28 vs. OE's 338x28). A proven track set up for years in tracking communities.

Front (350x28mm): RacingBrake Front OE Two Piece Replacement Rotor for Ford Focus RS 2016+
Rear (350x12mm): RacingBrake Oversized Rear Two Piece Upgrade Rotor Kit for Ford Focus RS 2016+

Front and rear combo (save 10% than purchase separately)
https://www.racingbrake.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FOR-IRK-08

For complete options please click below and see the offering matrix.
Focus ST/RS (2011+)
"1 car set of stainless steel braided brake line kit"

Is that front & rear lines?



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Anyone installed these? wondering if there will be any adverse effects to going with a larger rotor for a DD
I was hoping to install them last week, but a clutch issue has taken priority. I want to deal with that before doing all my brake upgrades. HMU in 2-3 weeks. I hope to have them on, and some street time with them by then, maybe autocross. It'll be a while before I have track time tough.

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Anyone installed these? wondering if there will be any adverse effects to going with a larger rotor for a DD
I've been running the Racing Brake big brake kit (front and rears) and fronts rotors with iron about 2 years and CCM for over 1 year. DD and track usage. No issues with the proportioning.
There are some posts were I discuss:
Adjusting the bias with pad material (front to rear) and looking at max temperatures with heat gun or temp paint.
Another guy on this forum has built a brake Bias calculator for other cars and I hoping he would create one for the RS. I sent him the CG data he needed.
The Ford calibrated/dreaded ABS emergency braking phenomenon is gone.

If your question is running big brake rotors on the rear and with OE rotors on the front, I have not run that combination. Not sure why you would.
 

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I've been running the Racing Brake big brake kit (front and rears) and fronts rotors with iron about 2 years and CCM for over 1 year. DD and track usage. No issues with the proportioning.
There are some posts were I discuss:
Adjusting the bias with pad material (front to rear) and looking at max temperatures with heat gun or temp paint.
Another guy on this forum has built a brake Bias calculator for other cars and I hoping he would create one for the RS. I sent him the CG data he needed.
The Ford calibrated/dreaded ABS emergency braking phenomenon is gone.

If your question is running big brake rotors on the rear and with OE rotors on the front, I have not run that combination. Not sure why you would.
I am just looking to run Racing brakes rotors and keep the stock callipers. Just figuring out if i should go with the stock rear size or the larger one. My car is just for DD
 

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I am just looking to run Racing brakes rotors and keep the stock callipers. Just figuring out if i should go with the stock rear size or the larger one. My car is just for DD
Ok so with a 2 pc rotor you keep the braking heat away from the wheel bearings. This is a good thing. So you would be using Racing brake (front) 2pc rotor with OE caliper and Racing Brake (rear) larger 2 pc rotor then I would put the max friction pad on the front (like a Carbotech XP 12 or 20) and run a HD street or light track duty pad in the rear (AX6 or XP 8) to start. With OE calipers I would get there caliper upgrade kit with SS pistons and high temp seals

Oh I just re-read just DD then HD street pads all the way around even the OE pads
 

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Ok so with a 2 pc rotor you keep the braking heat away from the wheel bearings. This is a good thing. So you would be using Racing brake (front) 2pc rotor with OE caliper and Racing Brake (rear) larger 2 pc rotor then I would put the max friction pad on the front (like a Carbotech XP 12 or 20) and run a HD street or light track duty pad in the rear (AX6 or XP 8) to start. With OE calipers I would get there caliper upgrade kit with SS pistons and high temp seals

Oh I just re-read just DD then HD street pads all the way around even the OE pads
I just fitted a set of EBC Yellows, braided lines and Motul 500. I will look into the SS piston kit though.
 

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Not sure what led you to EBS Yellows, but I didn't feel much difference compared to the OE pads... maybe even a bit worse for feel & wear.
I did some reading and felt they were ideal for my situation. Hard to say on the feel as i did the braided lines at the same time so i cannot say which played a bigger role. I will say that after 2-3000km the rears are still squealing a bit in stop and go traffic which is driving me nuts. When i do the rotor swap i will look at installing some carbotech, just dont know which ones yet. Looking for less dust and noise than OE.
 

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For a DD with no track driving, I would just stay with the OE rotors and pads. Perhaps if OE pads have too much dust look into something else for pads. or get your wheels coated.
 
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