[l0stperfecti0n]

So is the app finding the sender? If so if sounds like a sensor issue and I would double check that the sensor is being powered / wired correctly


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Yes, it is finding it and saying it is connected but that's as far as I get within the app itself since it isn't giving me any readings. I tried connecting to just the Bluetooth in settings on my Android devices as well, but it keeps telling me I have the wrong pin or password (I've tried 0000 and 1234 as suggested). I know you can change the pin while connected in the app as well but that hasn't worked either.

 

[Warriormonx]

I have the email of the app developer if the issue persists, but perhaps try clearing the pin and trying 1234 as the default.


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[l0stperfecti0n]

I have the email of the app developer if the issue persists, but perhaps try clearing the pin and trying 1234 as the default.


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I tried clearing the Bluetooth device and also cleared the pin and added 1234 back. I tried on both my Android and work iPhone but they both still say connected in the app but nothing happens after that. I emailed Tune + as well so we will see what they say.

Thanks for your help! I may have to ask you to DM me the developer's email if I don't get anywhere with Tune +.

 

[l0stperfecti0n]

So after some more troubleshooting with Adam we think it is the ethanol sensor that isn't working, not the app or Fuel-it module. He's going to send me a new sensor to try out. Hopefully this works.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Warriormonx]

Great; yes, that makes total sense. Hope that resolves everything.


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[connoisseurr]

Just wanted to send thanks to all the contributors in this thread. You all truly made this an easy install. Was able to get everything installed and put back together in just under an hour. What kept the clock running was my idiot self buying the incorrect add-a-circuit. Quick trip to AutoZone fixed that.

Unsure the condition of everyone else’s battery and air box trays, but both of mine needed a quick blow out and hit from the hose. Tons of dirt and debris. Gave me a reason to clean those out, and also allowed me to relocate the main power lead for my aftermarket sound system.

A few notes I’ll add for other’s success:

1. Get the right tools. What made this easy was having the fuel line connector tools (both Advance and AutoZone have these in stock normally). Some mentioned struggling getting the fuel line connector away from the HPFP... I used a panel/trim remover tool (V-grooved at end) between the locking collar and the HPFP. Pull towards yourself on the fuel line and then pry the opposite way using the panel tool - popped off instantly.
2. Unsure if I missed this in the previous posts but definitely mount the 3D printed bracket to the flat section on the battery box, where the metal support bracket for the battery sits flush. Mount through the metal bracket. This adds a layer of support and security for both the analyzer and bracket, and battery box (less flexing). I drilled a small pilot hole and then used a step bit to enlarge. I didn’t end up using washers because I was afraid of not enough clearance. After mounting I probably could have used them between the 3D bracket and the battery box, but all is sitting flush and secure – didn’t see a need.
3. There’s enough wire to run the Bluetooth adapter around the back of the battery box. I used the fuse box mounting screw for ground (soldered on a ring terminal) and then soldered the add-a-circuit to power lead. As stated by others, yellow is NOT used in our applications at this time. Also for soldering, definitely grab a few solder pills. These work great – simply a butt connection with a solder ring in the middle. You insert wires on both ends, overlap the exposed contacts and use a heat gun to melt the solder and shrink wrap. Some auto parts stores stock these, but I’m working out of a box from Amazon. When soldering, don’t forget heatshrink. I also added some tech flex for added wire protection.
4. A few posted which sides to connect fuel lines as front and back but I needed additional clarification to truly understand what was correct. My analyzer was mounted with both barbs on the bottom, where 1 barb was pointing to the rear of the car and the other barb pointing to the front. This leaves the content sensor / Bluetooth adapter connection facing towards the front of the car. To clarify the correct connections for the NEW lines, here is how the layout work: Tank fuel supply line > to forward-facing barb using the new short fuel line with 2x 90 degree fittings (green connector attaches to the tank supply line) > through the content sensor and out the rear facing barb > into the new longer fuel line > HPFP (green connector goes to HPFP). Basically, green connectors go to existing car fuel line connections and the white/gray connectors attach to the content analyzer.

Hoping this long but worthwhile read can help a few others in their endeavors for corn juice power.

 

[Hank]

Posting a Cross-link below to my build thread post #422. Tons of pictures and a write-up for my ECA install.
Hank's RS Build - From an Engineer's Perspective (ECA install)

 

[nicklulu]

This will go great with that:

Fuel Filter Kit, 2016+ Focus RS

Coolant expansion header tank.

www.radiumauto.com

 

[JamoRS]

This is tonight's mission for me. Hopefully its as straight forward as it seems......

 

[nicklulu]

It this the only bolt-on option for the RS?

Or this is the best option for the RS?

 

[JamoRS]

I did the install last night, figured I'll add to the thread since there is good info here and I read thru it a few times before doing the install. This might help someone doing prep before they do the install. Install isn't too too bad hardest part imo is getting the fuel line off the hpfp. For me at least, I didn't need a fuel line tool there, you will for the other end that is attached to hard line of car. As i pushed the black spring clip back and moved the line back and forth it popped off. This took me many attempts and will got me frustrated. I would have some rags ready as there will be some gas spillage not a crazy amount. Be careful you might want to wear safety glass as gas almost spattered in my eye. There are two new fuel lines in the kit. The one that is straight no 90 degree bends goes to the the HPFP (green side goes to HPFP) and to the rear of the sensor, remove red protection caps first. The line with the two 90 degree bends goes to the hard line and senor. Same thing green to hard line other side to front of sensor. When drilling the holes in the battery box. You can put the bracket to the battery box to mark the first hole, you will need to measure the distance from hole to hole on the bracket to mark the second hole before drilling. I just measured from middle of top hole on bracket to middle of bottom hole. If you don't have the exact sz drill u can use anything that's thicker than the diameter of the screw but smaller than the head. I used a fuse tap in F28 that seems to work fine, didn't need to modify fuse cover to get it to fit. For ground I just unscrewed existing ground wire right underneath where the intake is that was screwed into the frame of the car already. This makes for a stealthily install after you reinstall the intake. Have some zip ties to tie everything up. I needed some of those flexible extensions to remove the battery tie down you can prob use wrenches. Those are just weird cus you need a deep socked but don't have much clearance. If you have trouble getting the negative off. After the positive is removed side the battery out to give you more room to work on the negative. I don't know if this was a recent thing they starting charging or not but the fuel it app on IOS does cost $4.99 plus tax which is semi annoying but whatever. Hope this helps somewhat for the next person planning on doing the install.

Im going to add to this as this poster, clearly was clueless, and has added unneeded confusion, when drilling the holes, all you have to do is undo the 2 Allen head bolts holding the sensor to the bracket, and you can then drill both holes needed to mount the sensor bracket to the battery....see pics...

 

[JamoRS]

I've drilled mine through the metal battery clamp bracket thats inside the battery box for added strength(which someone on here suggested) rather than just screwing it onto plastic. Its sturdy and solid as a rock like that.

 

[JamoRS]

Got it mostly done and back together in roughly an hour, but had to stop short with the wiring, as my add a fuse is too fat to push into the fuse holder in the fuse box, so I'll have to find a slimmer one to finish the job🖕

 

[Hank]

Got it mostly done and back together in roughly an hour, but had to stop short with the wiring, as my add a fuse is too fat to push into the fuse holder in the fuse box, so I'll have to find a slimmer one to finish the job🖕

I used a pair of ***** (side cutters) to trim my add-a-tap blade to fit into the mini fuse socket.

 

[JamoRS]

I used a pair of ***** (side cutters) to trim my add-a-tap blade to fit into the mini fuse socket.

I did try that, but its still a little too fat, do you have any pics of what you did?

 

[Hank]

I did try that, but its still a little too fat, do you have any pics of what you did?

So I cut the add-a-tap bottom portion almost in half where it mates up with the fuse blade (beneath the red fuse body). Then I pushed the tap in the fuse socket about half way with a flat blade screwdriver. Once it was started, I pushed the fuse in with the tap at the same time.

 

[JamoRS]

Yeah they are different to what I have.
Thanks anyway.
Im using these....

Which you can see are way to bulky, I tried cutting it back a bit but its still no good.
So I've been to electronic shop and found these which are longer and skinny in comparison

 

[JamoRS]

Will give that a go when I get home this arvo, hopefully get the job finished

 

[Si2RS]

I got it done. Wasn't easy with the Radium dual catch can setup. The combination of bluetooth connector, hose lengths, connector angles, etc., meant I could only use one screw (and some adhesive tape) to secure the sensor much further back and lower than intended.

There simply wasn't space to fit it between the catch can and battery box in the intended location. Trying near the location I'd either kink a hose, not have enough hose length, or be unable to affix the bluetooth module.

Overall it came out pretty clean and hidden. Its working fine. Hopefully its well enough secured.

I'm including some pictures. One is off the piece that's removed for the installation. Had I seen, or known about this, prior to the installation it would have been much less confusing for me.

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Just wanted to check in and see if this mounting position is still working for you? I have the same "predicament" that you had with the dual Radium catch can set up. There's definitely not enough room to mount it in the recommended location since the can is right up against the battery box there. I'll probably install this next weekend, and will most likely have to mirror your set up. I'm wondering if I can mount it a little higher but twist it clockwise a little (the front angled down) so the bluetooth can clear the can. But then that brings into question the new hose clearances.

 

[Si2RS]

POST 1/2
So I ended up installing my sensor yesterday. Took about 6 hours, but half of that time was trying to figure out the best mounting location for the sensor since I have a dual catch can setup. Job didn't start out as smoothly as I hoped it would. The airbox was a PITA to remove. The little mounting "nub" closest to the fuse box refused to come out. Took a lot of "persuasion" to break it free. In the process of removing the intake tube and airbox as one piece, I ended up breaking the little vacuum tube on the back of the intake.

Word of advice... DON'T BREAK THIS PIECE. Unless you want to shell out $35 for the vacuum tube assembly since that's the only way to get this clip. Although, there's a always the ghetto way of fixing it, which is what I did . More on that later...

But I digress... Since I was going to play around with different potential mounting points for the sensor, I went ahead and cut off the little plastic fin that stuck out the side since it's not used for anything. (I'm assuming it's used as a clip mounting point in another model?):

I put some painter's tape over the potential mounting areas so I could mark it once I found the perfect spot.

It was actually a lot easier than I thought it would be to disconnect the original fuel hose from the HPFP. It was as easy as pushing the hose in towards the pump, pulling back the black ring around the tip, and pulling the hose out. However, I did disconnect the bottom portion of that hose first (the one connecting to the hard line), in order to drain out as much fuel as I could using gravity. CAUTION: Even after letting the car sit for a few days, there was fuel that still squirted out when disconnecting from the hard line and even got some on my safety glasses. So be advised. Here is a pic of the location of the hard line (circled in red) for folks interested that haven't done this install yet:

I probably made this a lot harder than it had to be in the long run. I removed and installed the battery box a handful of times in the process of trying to find the best location. I also connected all the hoses to the sensor, and had the bluetooth module attached the whole time to confirm clearance. I tried every which way, diagonal, flipped upside down, etc. In the end, the only spot that worked without kinking the shorter hose (the one that connects to the hard line) and giving clearance for the BT module was one similar to where @thomwithah mounted his. Although, I didn't use double-sided tape. The one screw actually held onto it pretty tightly by itself. I know the instructions on the TunePlus website say to use a 7/32" drill bit, but I actually used a 3/16" one, and that one gave a perfect sized hole for the screw to thread through.

Since this location is closer to the firewall, it's definitely a tight fit for the longer hose that runs up to the HPFP. And in this location, the hose would be rubbing up against this plastic clip:

So another ghetto fix was in order to make sure any contact wouldn't cause potential damage to the hose:

Some packing foam wrap, and we're good to go!