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@thomwithah it does seem daunting and confusing until you get in to it. I was also wondering about the fuel flow, but once you disconnect the single fuel line at both ends, you realize the analyzer simply takes its place. The unused line can become a Christmas tree ornament, a unique straw or an object for the circular file.

I can't answer the Radium question, I'm running the UPR can.

I'm not aware of any videos. If the pics in thread are lacking, I can try to get images of areas you think will illuminate the foggy areas.
 

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@thomwithah once you disconnect the single fuel line at both ends
Cool. If it is simply a line external to the pump that's essentially replaced the installation makes sense. That said, it was still wonder about the ORM design, and purpose of this hose that's being replaced.

I'm going to dig into it today or tomorrow. I'll let you know if I get lost and would benefit from additional pictures.

Thanks!!


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I got it done. Wasn't easy with the Radium dual catch can setup. The combination of bluetooth connector, hose lengths, connector angles, etc., meant I could only use one screw (and some adhesive tape) to secure the sensor much further back and lower than intended.

There simply wasn't space to fit it between the catch can and battery box in the intended location. Trying near the location I'd either kink a hose, not have enough hose length, or be unable to affix the bluetooth module.

Overall it came out pretty clean and hidden. Its working fine. Hopefully its well enough secured.

I'm including some pictures. One is off the piece that's removed for the installation. Had I seen, or known about this, prior to the installation it would have been much less confusing for me.


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I did the install last night, figured I'll add to the thread since there is good info here and I read thru it a few times before doing the install. This might help someone doing prep before they do the install. Install isn't too too bad hardest part imo is getting the fuel line off the hpfp. For me at least, I didn't need a fuel line tool there, you will for the other end that is attached to hard line of car. As i pushed the black spring clip back and moved the line back and forth it popped off. This took me many attempts and will got me frustrated. I would have some rags ready as there will be some gas spillage not a crazy amount. Be careful you might want to wear safety glass as gas almost spattered in my eye. There are two new fuel lines in the kit. The one that is straight no 90 degree bends goes to the the HPFP (green side goes to HPFP) and to the rear of the sensor, remove red protection caps first. The line with the two 90 degree bends goes to the hard line and senor. Same thing green to hard line other side to front of sensor. When drilling the holes in the battery box. You can put the bracket to the battery box to mark the first hole, you will need to measure the distance from hole to hole on the bracket to mark the second hole before drilling. I just measured from middle of top hole on bracket to middle of bottom hole. If you don't have the exact sz drill u can use anything that's thicker than the diameter of the screw but smaller than the head. I used a fuse tap in F28 that seems to work fine, didn't need to modify fuse cover to get it to fit. For ground I just unscrewed existing ground wire right underneath where the intake is that was screwed into the frame of the car already. This makes for a stealthily install after you reinstall the intake. Have some zip ties to tie everything up. I needed some of those flexible extensions to remove the battery tie down you can prob use wrenches. Those are just weird cus you need a deep socked but don't have much clearance. If you have trouble getting the negative off. After the positive is removed side the battery out to give you more room to work on the negative. I don't know if this was a recent thing they starting charging or not but the fuel it app on IOS does cost $4.99 plus tax which is semi annoying but whatever. Hope this helps somewhat for the next person planning on doing the install.
 

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F28 is used by the rear camera on my RS. F29 is working, but the sensor is still on when the ignition is off, so probably not the best option. Any other ideas?

Edit: Didn't realize I needed to use two fuses with the fuse tap :distracted: camera and sensor are working great now.
 

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Did those of you that used the add-a-fuse have to modify it to work? I could NOT get the ones I got to work in the fuse box. I wired it direct in and used an inline fuse.
 

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I just finished the install, and it probably took me around 3 hours or less. I removed the following: fuel fuse under the glove box (top left most fuse), intake box, top intake piece, rubber intake elbow, cowl, battery, fuel line from previous post. The biggest pain was the fact that I have a port injection kit from stratified and the fuel fitting is so short that I couldn't get my fuel line removal piece in there. What I ended up doing was cutting it in half and taking the pieces and shoving them in the fuel line fitting and then putting the rest of the removal tool underneath to remove it. I'll have to buy a new one obviously, but it did the trick and thankfully I don't have to deal with those type of connections anymore. I also just connected it directly to my tap a fuse from the aux kit and bumped the fuse from 5A to 7.5A just to be safe. First startup, it started right away and the device quickly connected to my phone letting me know my fuel was E11. Time to drive around more and then put an E40 mix in and see what my gas station is actually supplying!
 

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I just finished the install. It was fairly easy with the help of this thread. I tapped F28 with an add a fuse.

My fuel hard line to the content analyzer line was kinking despite all my maneuvers to make it straight.



Once I drove the car the fuel line heated up and the kink resolved. I wasted and hour repositioning my sensor to resolve the kink. If you find yourself in the same situation, I hope this helps.



J





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I know some have asked about to best practice to relieve fuel pressure which should make fuel line removal easier. Per Radium’s instructions for fuel filter install see below

Prop the hood and remove the fuse cover panel.
On some vehicles, the fuel pump fuse is terminal 4 (shown).

On other vehicles, the fuse is located in the LH footwell at terminal F56.
Remove the 20A fuel pump.
To relieve fuel pressure, start the engine and allow it to stall.
Switch the vehicle power OFF and replace the fuse and panel.
Disconnect the battery's negative terminal.
 

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Also, under the glove box (behind the cover), the top most fuse on the left is the fuel pump fuse as well (I think?). I pull that one anytime I'm working on fuel line items. It disables the fuel pump every time.
 

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Reviving an oldish thread since I can't figure something out. I installed the bracket and everything yesterday pretty easily using everyone's input from this thread. So thanks to all of you who contributed.

My problem is I can't get the Fuel-It app to produce any data. When I click connect it says it has connected but nothing happens. I tried on my personal Android phone, Android tablet, and work iPhone with no luck.

I'm pretty sure everything is connected correctly. Anyone have any ideas?
335022
 

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Reviving an oldish thread since I can't figure something out. I installed the bracket and everything yesterday pretty easily using everyone's input from this thread. So thanks to all of you who contributed.

My problem is I can't get the Fuel-It app to produce any data. When I click connect it says it has connected but nothing happens. I tried on my personal Android phone, Android tablet, and work iPhone with no luck.

I'm pretty sure everything is connected correctly. Anyone have any ideas?
View attachment 335022
Where are you taking from? If using an add-a-fuse, which fuse slot are you using?

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So is the app finding the sender? If so if sounds like a sensor issue and I would double check that the sensor is being powered / wired correctly


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