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Bluetooth ethanol content analyzer help

33897 Views 83 Replies 32 Participants Last post by  GoBabyGo
I purchased a bluetooth ethanol content analyzer kit from Tune+ and received it today. The instructions say you can hook the power up to the battery or tap one of the fuses in the engine compartment. Has anyone installed one of these? I'd like to tap in to the fusebox in the engine compartment, but I'm not sure which one to use.
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This is tonight's mission for me. Hopefully its as straight forward as it seems......
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I did the install last night, figured I'll add to the thread since there is good info here and I read thru it a few times before doing the install. This might help someone doing prep before they do the install. Install isn't too too bad hardest part imo is getting the fuel line off the hpfp. For me at least, I didn't need a fuel line tool there, you will for the other end that is attached to hard line of car. As i pushed the black spring clip back and moved the line back and forth it popped off. This took me many attempts and will got me frustrated. I would have some rags ready as there will be some gas spillage not a crazy amount. Be careful you might want to wear safety glass as gas almost spattered in my eye. There are two new fuel lines in the kit. The one that is straight no 90 degree bends goes to the the HPFP (green side goes to HPFP) and to the rear of the sensor, remove red protection caps first. The line with the two 90 degree bends goes to the hard line and senor. Same thing green to hard line other side to front of sensor. When drilling the holes in the battery box. You can put the bracket to the battery box to mark the first hole, you will need to measure the distance from hole to hole on the bracket to mark the second hole before drilling. I just measured from middle of top hole on bracket to middle of bottom hole. If you don't have the exact sz drill u can use anything that's thicker than the diameter of the screw but smaller than the head. I used a fuse tap in F28 that seems to work fine, didn't need to modify fuse cover to get it to fit. For ground I just unscrewed existing ground wire right underneath where the intake is that was screwed into the frame of the car already. This makes for a stealthily install after you reinstall the intake. Have some zip ties to tie everything up. I needed some of those flexible extensions to remove the battery tie down you can prob use wrenches. Those are just weird cus you need a deep socked but don't have much clearance. If you have trouble getting the negative off. After the positive is removed side the battery out to give you more room to work on the negative. I don't know if this was a recent thing they starting charging or not but the fuel it app on IOS does cost $4.99 plus tax which is semi annoying but whatever. Hope this helps somewhat for the next person planning on doing the install.
Im going to add to this as this poster, clearly was clueless, and has added unneeded confusion, when drilling the holes, all you have to do is undo the 2 Allen head bolts holding the sensor to the bracket, and you can then drill both holes needed to mount the sensor bracket to the battery....see pics...

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I've drilled mine through the metal battery clamp bracket thats inside the battery box for added strength(which someone on here suggested) rather than just screwing it onto plastic. Its sturdy and solid as a rock like that.
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Got it mostly done and back together in roughly an hour, but had to stop short with the wiring, as my add a fuse is too fat to push into the fuse holder in the fuse box, so I'll have to find a slimmer one to finish the job🖕
I used a pair of ***** (side cutters) to trim my add-a-tap blade to fit into the mini fuse socket.
I did try that, but its still a little too fat, do you have any pics of what you did?
Yeah they are different to what I have.
Thanks anyway.
Im using these....

Which you can see are way to bulky, I tried cutting it back a bit but its still no good.
So I've been to electronic shop and found these which are longer and skinny in comparison

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Will give that a go when I get home this arvo, hopefully get the job finished
As you said you made that harder than it needed to be. I'll add these
2 points...
* Remove the fuel pump fuse in the cabin and then run the car till it rains out of fuel, no fuel spray and very minimal leakage

* You could of chosen a shorter route with the red wire and it looks a little neater, and the lid closes perfectly, see pic.

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