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Discussion Starter #21
I pulled vaccum thru the reservoir while pumping the clutch pedal 20+ times. Several times over. You can fit a cork or rubber lid to fit reservoir Look up clutchmasters bleed procedure, it works. Vaccuum thru bleed line didn’t get all the air out when I did my clutch job. I let res get too low and lost all pressure, did this bleed and no issues for 15k.
The rdu is a 10mm allen, ptu is t50 or t55 torx. For trans I cut a 1” piece off the allen wrench 8-10 mm, cant remember,😉to fit in plug then use straight wrench to turn it. A regular bit wont fit in that space.
Slightly confused about Clutchmasters' vacuum bleeding technique. Why would there be fluid in the line between the stopper and the catch can? There's no fluid in contact with the stopper, since there's air above the max fill line on the reservoir. If using a fluid evac, I wouldn't run a catch can to begin with.

Let me see if I have the rest of it straight though.
  • So I have a pressure bleeder with a QD cap. Since the clutch line has zero fluid currently, I should pressure bleed the clutch line first to fill with fluid. Then I close the clutch bleed valve.
  • I can plug then a fluid evac into the QD and run shop air. Clutch bleed valve stays closed.
  • I pump the clutch pedal 30 times, repeat as many times as needed (would I be able to see bubbles in the opaque reservoir?).
  • When finished, release vacuum, top off fluid, and pump up both clutch and brake pedals.
 

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Top up the reservoir and connect the pressure bleeder with oil in it and apply 15psi air pressure. Open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder until fluid comes out air free. Close the bleed valve and dump the air pressure off the bleeder and check the clutch operation.

Ciao
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Just curious if you got the issue resolved.

I wish that it had.
Good morning gents. Or I suppose evening for you people.

The scope of my engineering genius literally knows no bounds.

So I drove my friend's car after removing both restrictors, and WOW. What a difference. It's much, much lighter and feels much better, much more linear, not weirdly resistant. I highly recommend it next time you guys bleed clutches.


So the actual process was a bit of a **** show before I got there. It's pretty hard to see where the actual fluid level is from the outside of the reservoir, the guys just started pumping and blowing air out of the clutch bleed valve. I got there and my friend complained the process doesn't work. It's kind of weird, the line that feeds the clutch is a bit lower than the max fill line, but with fluid just at the max fill line, no fluid was being pushed into the line.

So I filled it to the brim, screwed the cap on, put more fluid in the power bleeder tank, and pumped to ~1.5 bar, which fell to ~1 bar once I opened the valve. Then I opened the bleeder valve until fluid flowed clear. Then removed the pressure apparatus. Finished it off by pumping the clutch and bleeding two more times just to be sure.

I should have stopped at one because we opened the reservoir to check, and couldn't tell if the fluid was just above or just below the max fill line. So they tried to put more fluid into the reservoir by loosening the pressure bleeder cap and pumping, which resulted in a large amount of brake fluid sprayed all over the engine bay. I just poured a bunch of water all over the area, but that was frustrating.

All worth it though, I just gotta do it to my car once I get back Stateside.


P.S. Side note: The amount of fluid an empty clutch line takes is almost exactly from topped off reservoir down to max fill line. Kind of neat.
 
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