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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2016 35000km on the clock:
-e30 tune
-tuneplue w400 package

-driving in 4th gear 60kph, i clutched into neutral and rev'ed engine 3k- 6k rpm twice to hear the pops and burbles then slowly let the clutch out to re-engage at 2000rpm.

-on clutch re-engagement-> instant knocking sound and quite a bit of vibration in the clutch pedal. I thought the clutch had disintegrated.
-i was 1km from home so slowly nursed it home.

-finally got the engine out and disassembled at the engine shop-> bent rod on cyl 3

-the engine shop was unable to give me a reason for this
-no water leaks on headgasket that was done under warranty yrs ago, valvetrain intact, balance shaft mechanism intact.

-the bent rod caused an indentation to the bottum of the cylinder wall
-scuff mark on the piston's 3 top was from removal

as the engine builder was unable to give me a reason, i'm posting to see what others thought about this .
 

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Could have even been from free revving the engine, even with the balancer doing its thing free revving an engine isn't that great for it. Have a search about primary and secondary forces on a piston engine, I've had experience with this from my dirt bike days as you free rev all the time :ROFLMAO:

I also agree with OppositeLock, LSPI is a killer of these engines and experienced it with mine. I think it bent Cyl 3 as well! Just means now you can get a better block and make more power!!
 
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The std rods just aren’t up to the job when increasing cylinder temps and pressures, which you’ve done by having the w400 package.
It was always going to let go at some point imho
 
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2016 35000km on the clock:
-e30 tune
-tuneplue w400 package

-driving in 4th gear 60kph, i clutched into neutral and rev'ed engine 3k- 6k rpm twice to hear the pops and burbles then slowly let the clutch out to re-engage at 2000rpm.

-on clutch re-engagement-> instant knocking sound and quite a bit of vibration in the clutch pedal. I thought the clutch had disintegrated.
-i was 1km from home so slowly nursed it home.

-finally got the engine out and disassembled at the engine shop-> bent rod on cyl 3

-the engine shop was unable to give me a reason for this
-no water leaks on headgasket that was done under warranty yrs ago, valvetrain intact, balance shaft mechanism intact.

-the bent rod caused an indentation to the bottum of the cylinder wall
-scuff mark on the piston's 3 top was from removal

as the engine builder was unable to give me a reason, i'm posting to see what others thought about this .
I think you're going to have to take the heat for this catastrophe... And be grateful that it isn't worse!
Can your pistons and block be saved?
 

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New block and forged pistons and rods best way forward
 

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New block and forged pistons and rods best way forward
Most builders are using the 2.0 block with an aftermarket stroker kit and with a lot of success. And that's probably the way I would also go.
But I'd try to keep as much of the original motor as possible, even if you just wrapped it in plastic and put it in storage. The RS is getting rare and collectable and some guys (not me), just like everything factory.
 

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I had a new short block under warranty about year and half ago, still went with forged internals to make sure it can handle the extra power
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i had taken it to the ford dealer. Dropped it off in the morning, came back at the end of the day to be told by the head tech they didnt even checked the engine. He listened to the knocking noise and said engine is stuffed and gave me an invoice for $18k AUD for a replacement engine installed :sneaky::rolleyes:
needless to say i wasnt impressed

anyway ordered some parts
i'm going to put in:
-manley pistons 637000c-4
-darton sleeves
-brian crower rods bc6415 with arp2000
-arp head studs and mains, massive balance shaft delete kit
-ford performance cams 2015-2021 2.3L ECOBOOST HIGH PERFORMANCE CAMS
-single plate ceramic clutch kit
-• Xtreme-DI HPFP-35 High Pressure Fuel Pump
• Xtreme-DI XDI-i010-50 +50% DI Fuel Injector set
i'll stay with stock turbo for the time being for daily drivability

Anything else to recommend ?
 

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i had taken it to the ford dealer. Dropped it off in the morning, came back at the end of the day to be told by the head tech they didnt even checked the engine. He listened to the knocking noise and said engine is stuffed and gave me an invoice for $18k AUD for a replacement engine installed :sneaky::rolleyes:
needless to say i wasnt impressed

anyway ordered some parts
i'm going to put in:
-manley pistons 637000c-4
-darton sleeves
-brian crower rods bc6415 with arp2000
-arp head studs and mains, massive balance shaft delete kit
-ford performance cams 2015-2021 2.3L ECOBOOST HIGH PERFORMANCE CAMS
-single plate ceramic clutch kit
-• Xtreme-DI HPFP-35 High Pressure Fuel Pump
• Xtreme-DI XDI-i010-50 +50% DI Fuel Injector set
i'll stay with stock turbo for the time being for daily drivability

Anything else to recommend ?
I would honestly recommend the Mountune MRX Turbo, EFR 6758, over the OEM one if your going "all out" on the other parts. I was a bit skeptical on it at first as I do daily mine but so far it's really nice for drivability. Yes boost doesn't hit hard until later in the rev range and a fair amount of pedal but how the power comes on is quite controllable and honestly it gives the accelerator more of a rubber band feel i.e. the more you press the more exciting it gets :ROFLMAO:

Yes it is an expensive venture but I would recommend it since you have it all apart anyway, the only drama it may be a very long wait to get one, took mine 6 months to get here through Pro Speed.

It was the only thing I regretted not doing when I got my engine done last year, I just didn't have the funds to afford it at the time.
 

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i had taken it to the ford dealer. Dropped it off in the morning, came back at the end of the day to be told by the head tech they didnt even checked the engine. He listened to the knocking noise and said engine is stuffed and gave me an invoice for $18k AUD for a replacement engine installed :sneaky::rolleyes:
needless to say i wasnt impressed

anyway ordered some parts
i'm going to put in:
-manley pistons 637000c-4
-darton sleeves
-brian crower rods bc6415 with arp2000
-arp head studs and mains, massive balance shaft delete kit
-ford performance cams 2015-2021 2.3L ECOBOOST HIGH PERFORMANCE CAMS
-single plate ceramic clutch kit
-• Xtreme-DI HPFP-35 High Pressure Fuel Pump
• Xtreme-DI XDI-i010-50 +50% DI Fuel Injector set
i'll stay with stock turbo for the time being for daily drivability

Anything else to recommend ?
You forgot the rods 😳 I’d go for Callies for a budget-conscious build or Carrillo for an all-out build where you plan to carry over the components (crankshaft, rods…) over the next (re)build.

You could also upgrade the head studs to ARP Custom Age 625+

Massive makes a sump baffle. You could add it since you are already using their balance shaft delete (which is nothing but a tiny plug) - baffling mitigates potential oil starvation problems during acceleration/cornering.

You need a seal kit from Ford, a good head gasket (Cometic or Mountune) and a new oil pump and pickup pipe for sure: never trust the oil pump of a failed engine. Moutune sells a modified Ford oil pump with +10% pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I would honestly recommend the Mountune MRX Turbo, EFR 6758, over the OEM one if your going "all out" on the other parts.
I was considering the efr6758 or the nx2 turbo. How much australian wheel horsepower did you make with the efr6758?! i've found the USA quoted dyno numbers way off. My e30 tune only ever made 290whp on a dyno dynamics.

You forgot the rods
i did order rods- brian crower rods bc6415 BC6415 - Ford 2.3L EcoBoost - ProH2K Connecting Rods w/ARP2000 Fastene – Official BC Brian Crower / runBC Online Store
-i followed your recomendations from another thread and ordered the arp head studs 151-4301, arp crank shaft bolt, ford gasket kit, oem oil pump and pickup ;)
 

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I was considering the efr6758 or the nx2 turbo. How much australian wheel horsepower did you make with the efr6758?! i've found the USA quoted dyno numbers way off. My e30 tune only ever made 290whp on a dyno dynamics.


i did order rods- brian crower rods bc6415 BC6415 - Ford 2.3L EcoBoost - ProH2K Connecting Rods w/ARP2000 Fastene – Official BC Brian Crower / runBC Online Store
-i followed your recomendations from another thread and ordered the arp head studs 151-4301, arp crank shaft bolt, ford gasket kit, oem oil pump and pickup ;)
I was originally looking at the NX2 but couldn't find anywhere that sells it in Aus and I never got any replies from US suppliers on cost/ship times so I ended up on the MRX instead.

Not 100% sure on dyno numbers yet, still going through the tuning phase with Stratified.

I'll link the logs so far but they don't show Hp, only estimated torque. I am aiming for 400WHp but I will probably be limited with the OEM fuel system.

datazap.me | Magertron26 | EFR 6758 Stratified V1.10
 
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