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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes I know avoid the pothole 4head. But bent a rim I think due to either a pothole or uneven broken road that has a slightly steep drop off on a highway. Was getting on vibration. Tire shop that has never let me down found the issue. Found some forged rims that aren't a bad price. Was curious if anyone has had these before? Was thinking of eventually buying another oem rim to complete the set. One wheel shop said they can reforge the wheel possibly when my new tire comes in but that's a gamble if they can or not. But I've also found wheels for four that were cheaper than one of my oem rims. This one in the picture is not the one I'm talking about cause I do still want some quality and strength. Some things you get you pay for quality and I'm a firm believer in that unless more than one person tells me otherwise that the cheaper option is better. I want forged for a stringer rim. We got rough roads around here. You can't always swerve over to the other lane to avoid rough spots I can always slowdown real fast like a grandma but when someone is riding your butt in their big yee yee truck you can almost expect to get rear ended. So any reviews on these rims other than the little ones they got on the site? Much appreciated.... -Chad the 4head pothole fan
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The wheels you posted aren't actually forged, but "rotary forged," which is the same thing as flow forming.

If you want a forged wheel, your options are pretty limited because of our bizarre bolt pattern. That said, Titan 7 makes one or two forged wheels in our size, and if you can find them, Volk occasionally puts out TE-37s in our bolt pattern as well.
 

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If you're mostly worried about potholes, you can also move down to 18's (or even better, 17's but options are VERY limited then).

You don't necessarily need a stronger wheel, just more rubber/sidewall to take the impact and abuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The wheels you posted aren't actually forged, but "rotary forged," which is the same thing as flow forming.

If you want a forged wheel, your options are pretty limited because of our bizarre bolt pattern. That said, Titan 7 makes one or two forged wheels in our size, and if you can find them, Volk occasionally puts out TE-37s in our bolt pattern as well.
I'll take a look at those. I'm just looking for something a bit more affordable and stronger in case something happens again. Instead of paying 600 plus dollars. But thanks for the heads up on those rims
 

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2016 Ford Focus RS Black
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you're mostly worried about potholes, you can also move down to 18's (or even better, 17's but options are VERY limited then).

You don't necessarily need a stronger wheel, just more rubber/sidewall to take the impact and abuse.
I've seen some pretty beefy rims. I never been a fan of smaller rims ever since I've had mustangs. I can deal with 18s cause my v6 came with them. But 17s I don't think so. My boss 302 I ran 19s. But never had this happen and I hit some really bad pot holes in it before. Maybe cause they were thicker and heavier. But I'm going to check out the rims the other guy suggested. Maybe I should check out a thicker heavy rim but not necessarily forged? We will see. But I appreciate the input. Right now I know what road I have to avoid that has cost me probably this rim. Even if it is the longer way back home
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Forged wheels can also bend with the properly applied amount of abuse. My previous set of TE37 (different car, OG set) had a bend in all of them. I can bend anything living in San Francisco.
Luckily it's just a road I have to avoid coming home and stay in the left lane on a certain spot on the interstate. My home road isn't bad.
 

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I'm running 18" wheels on my car, OZ Hyper GT HLT. They are lighter than stock forged wheels, 18" tires are cheaper, more comfortable, and you can run them at lower pressures. It's a win in all categories - something to consider.
 

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Yep, get 18" rims. Tires will be cheaper too. I running 245/40R18 tires.
 

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Forging does strengthen the metal... however usually with forged wheels the manufacturer uses less material resulting in a wheel no stronger that a cast wheel but is much lighter. As previous poster mentioned those TSW's are rotary formed which some companies call forging or rotary forging. I run my 19's in the summer and 18's in the winter to give me a bit more protection (more sidewall) in pothole season here in MN. Using 235/40-18 tires on the 18's.
 

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@mkitt makes a very good point - Ford (or whomever) will design the wheel to achieve the performance target that they set. While forging allows for better material properties, the manufacturer will realize that benefit by reducing material/mass to hit the same targets as the cast wheel. So in that line of thought, the strongest wheel will be the one built by the company with the most stringent requirements. And since Ford has to warranty millions of cars around the world, I'd wager that their requirements for pothole durability and strike resistance are higher than just about any aftermarket company. They've seen field use cases that most of us would never dream of, and integrated them into their design requirements over 100 years of doing business.

Unfortunately we don't know what requirements aftermarket companies set, or how they do their engineering validation, and they probably won't volunteer that information if I come asking. We're left to evaluate our options based on brand provenance and a mixture of reputation and peer testimony. I hate that about aftermarket parts.

So... I apologize that my answer is a non-answer, but hopefully it is helpful to point out that forged =/= better at face value. The recommendation to go down to a smaller diameter wheel is a good one, since you're asking the wheel rim to deal with less load.
 
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