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Attn: Ask Anything And Not Get Flamed Thread

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1M views 2K replies 340 participants last post by  Barroux 
#1 Ā· (Edited)
I think a thread like this could be a very valuable and beneficial tool, specially as this Forum continues to grow and new junior members are added.

At this point, we're all new to this Forum, but as time passes, the NOW junior members will be senior members. We'll continue to see the Forum grow with new junior members.

It was a very popular thread in another Forum and a safe place for new junior members to post questions (within Forum rules/guidelines) without fear of being flamed.

So please respond kindly and keep it fun.

Cheers!
 

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#2,302 Ā·
I'm slowly upgrading things on my RS and my next goal is to do the rear motor mount and rear sway bar. My only question to those who have done them is what is the everyday ride quality like? I have a 70 year old mother who can't drive that I have to drive around a few times a week and she already hates the ride of my car. Would the cobb motor mount and rear sway bar make the car much more uncomfortable?
 
#2,303 Ā·
As long as the cobb motor mount still has a rubber bushing and not a solid design, the increase in NVH shouldn't be too bad. I have the mountune one and only noticed slightly more vibration during cold starts and when the AC kicks on while sitting in traffic.

Rear sways are the same way, as long as you don't go too crazy with the diameter/stiffness, you won't really notice it. I have the whiteline and only noticed more side-to-side "jostle" when going very slowly over something uneven like speed bumps or badly pot-holed roads.
 
#2,314 Ā·
Hi all new here wondering if someone can answer this question I have a stripped stud on the turbo down pipe side is it possible to remove and replace it without taken the turbo out
Thanks
Rab
Pretty sure they replaced both of them on my car without removing the turbo (when they replaced the downpipe/Cat). They likelye would have needed more time if they had to remove the turbo on top of replacing the downpipeā€¦.others that have done this themselves may confirm better than I do though.
 
#2,318 Ā· (Edited)
So I swapped to winter tires today and thatā€™s when I noticed the handbrake only locks the LH wheel, RH wheel spins freely. Had brakes done a few weeks ago too.

Has this happened to anybody else on the RS? Quick search ok the internet returns many occurences on various trim levels (SE/ST), likely a bad e-brake cable or caliperā€¦could also be the cable was remove/loosened during brake replacement and but reinstalled properly (I should have at least verified this while jacked but was on a mission to complete the tire swap)!

One more thing to fix I guess šŸ¤£ā€¦Iā€™ll pull the RR wheel tomorrow and start from there!

Edit: It snowed yesterday Nov.16th (3 days after I posted) and I used the Nutron drift stick on that day. It seems to have set the pistons/pads somehow better than daily driving and pad bedding stops, now feels like both sides are holding when pulling the e-brake. My driveway is on an incline and I could feel the handbrake barely holding the car prior to yesterday (also left it in gear for that reason), didnt feel this at all yesterday. Also got the satisfying Ā« Tonk Ā» from both rear calipers this morning when the pads let go of the rotors (typical after a storm especially having hooned around in the snow). Iā€™ll jack the car up and see if that wheel is free to turn or not with the ebrake pulled but it seems like it just needed to be abused some to set everything after the new rotors/pads were installed, might just need a small adjustment after all and not a cable or caliper šŸ¤ž
 
#2,319 Ā·
My question, I have the mishimoto intake, and have used the cleaner a few times and anyway I think itā€™s just time for a new filter. Question is, do I have to use a mishimoto filter or will any other do just fine? Seems like thereā€™s is based off the K&N filter. Also any recommendations? Was thinking of getting the green filter.
 
#2,322 Ā·
What grease is recommended for the Bushings for Swaybars ? ( i currently have Whiteline F/R kit )
 
#2,329 Ā·
Question that's been beaten a thousand times, but I'm starting with a fresh engine. Would WMI injection in the charge pipe be enough to keep valves clean, or should I stick to the port fuel rail? Buildup stopped, and cleared up a bit, in my valves but I don't know if it was due to the WMI or AUX.
 
#2,337 Ā·
I changed the rear brakes, and now it feels like I put air in the system. I had to pretty much back the piston all the way out in order to depress it on both sides when changing the brakes. Now when I start the car the pedal will go to the floor no resistance then the second pump will be back to normal. Also does the same during driving. It will however stop without pumping in an emergency ABS trigger stop no problem, like normal operation.

Anyways I need to bleed the brakes so I will buy an Motiv pressure bleeder
 
#2,340 Ā·
Don't forget you need to move the parking brake handle. Maybe there's a bubble stuck in there somewhere.

Just put the Damond rear bushings and stainless lines on the car. Noticable improvement for sure. As you mentioned, the Motive was a huge help in bleeding the brakes but FORScan has options on bleeding the specific corner of the car too.
 
#2,341 Ā· (Edited)
Stay vigilant folks!!! Scammers are getting crafty. A member had their account hijacked and for sale ads put up. The username and date on a paper doesnā€™t justify sending money via bank transfer, Zelle, or PP friends and family.
 
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