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Mine was made 9/23/16 and is going OK.
I store winters on a trickle. Summers I don’t use air much, do run the stereo, always turn off auto stop/start, run mostly country anyway. The battery is usually around 12.5v +- a very little.
I feel lucky to have it last this long, but yours is that old too. If it fails this spring, I’d feel like I got my money’s worth.
I do plan to just use OEM. All that shopping to save a few pounds would mean nothing on an otherwise stock car. (lazy)
BTW, it was on Buffalo news this morning, today is National Battery Day. ? Really ? Who thinks that up?

Does your RS still auto stop/start?
 

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Sept. 2016 Build here. Stock battery still, never used the auto start/stop. Winter driven, cold starts, the whole 9 yards. Haven't noticed any degradation so far, suppose I should start paying attention if others have had issues.
 

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I used to have a boss about 10 years ago who used to say "There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers ;) " - so here is mine. I actually replaced mine after 3 years of owning the car even though I hadn't seen anything adverse but I did see it dropping below 12.4V overnight so I decided to not wait for issues to start popping up... I also used an OEM Motorcraft battery as the price from the dealer was OK and if you order through the fordparts.com website you can get 10% discount if you use a brand new e-mail address to register. The only snag was getting the core refund back - I had to bug them a few times before it finally showed back on my card but it eventually did happen.
Oh. I didn't realize I could order it from Ford's official parts website. How did the core charge work? Did you just do it through the dealer you picked up the battery from?
Mine was made 9/23/16 and is going OK.
I store winters on a trickle. Summers I don’t use air much, do run the stereo, always turn off auto stop/start, run mostly country anyway. The battery is usually around 12.5v +- a very little.
I feel lucky to have it last this long, but yours is that old too. If it fails this spring, I’d feel like I got my money’s worth.
I do plan to just use OEM. All that shopping to save a few pounds would mean nothing on an otherwise stock car. (lazy)
BTW, it was on Buffalo news this morning, today is National Battery Day. ? Really ? Who thinks that up?
National Battery Day on the news, eh? Could be a good thing, or a VERY bad thing. :ROFLMAO: I'm kinda the same as you in regards to "creature comfort" use. I rarely run the A/C, and I've had auto start/stop disabled via my tune for over 21K miles now. Maybe that's what helped the battery last so long.
 

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Sept. 2016 Build here. Stock battery still, never used the auto start/stop. Winter driven, cold starts, the whole 9 yards. Haven't noticed any degradation so far, suppose I should start paying attention if others have had issues.
Exact same thing here except mine is parked indoors in my garage so perhaps less cold starts...but June 2016 delivery still going strong on stock battery.

I am also awaiting that day where it just wont start...my ST’s battery failed much faster and so did my ex’s SE battery (fingers crossed)!
 

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Oh. I didn't realize I could order it from Ford's official parts website. How did the core charge work? Did you just do it through the dealer you picked up the battery from?
You order from here: https://parts.ford.com/en.html and then a day or so later you get an e-mail from the dealer chosen during ordering to pick it up. You also return the old battery to the same dealer to get the core charge back.
 

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You order from here: https://parts.ford.com/en.html and then a day or so later you get an e-mail from the dealer chosen during ordering to pick it up. You also return the old battery to the same dealer to get the core charge back.
Cool. I ordered it yesterday, and it's already ready for pickup. My local dealer had it for $189, so after the $20 off promo and after getting the core charge returned, I'll be looking at $185 out the door. Not bad at all! Thanks!
 
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Cross posting my question from another thread

 

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Does anyone run wider tires up front on the RS?

For those of you who think it's not a good idea, can you please link me to supporting info?

TIA
 

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Does anyone run wider tires up front on the RS?

For those of you who think it's not a good idea, can you please link me to supporting info?

TIA
I actually think it makes sense, especially since the weight is over the front axle.

How much wider is optimal is the question. Is square better cuz our rear wheels are overdriven? Also it's already tight up front, so how many pokemon we catching?
 

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I actually think it makes sense, especially since the weight is over the front axle.

How much wider is optimal is the question. Is square better cuz our rear wheels are overdriven? Also it's already tight up front, so how many pokemon we catching?
Good questions.

Reason I'm asking is because I fried the fronts of a square set of 255/35R18 Advan A052 at Buttonwillow a couple of weeks ago - 1000 street miles and one track day. I'm about -3.2deg camber up front and my hot pressure was between 46-48psi.

My tire wear was right about at the tip of the triangles, right where I should be which tells me that my pressure was good for the alignment setting + driving style. (If I'm missing anything here let me know.) FWIW I also had to run Cup2 in the upper 40's to keep the sidewalls from rolling - A052 have stiffer sidewalls, not as stiff as RE71R.

I just feel like I could have used 20mm more tire up front. I'm considering 275 up front because I know I can fit them. I'll keep 255 out back, they seem fine. I'm hoping to catch someone here that's done such things.
 

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Fairly common for FWD (and some awd) cars to run wider fronts, particularly those with LSDs, in autox.

As @SenderPiggins mentioned, it makes a lot of sense to give more tire to the wheels that are doing most of the work. Performance-wise, the only drawback I can see is maybe loosing a little steering feel/feedback on the wheel and maybe shifting the overall balance of the car (more lift off oversteer?). Not really sure how the RDU will react it to either.

Practically speaking, it doesn't make much sense having to manage two different size tires (and wheels?). You won't be able to rotate them and they will be wearing at different rates. I would try messing with other things like suspension set-up before going this route.
 

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Just had a quick question.
I've been receiving an error message at start-up.
"Engine System Fault"
It would go away very quickly, like one second and its gone.
I do still have the same battery, and Im on year 4 of ownership with 43K miles.
It does have a lazy crank sometimes, when it cold. This doesn't really bother me too much.

But I have been noticing that when I release the clutch sometimes (In Neutral), the engine will surge.
The the engine will rev to 1'500rpm them drop back down.
I'm wondering if this is the reason for the "Engine System Fault" message.

Also wondering if any of you have had this same type of issue.
 

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Just had a quick question.
I've been receiving an error message at start-up.
"Engine System Fault"
It would go away very quickly, like one second and its gone.
I do still have the same battery, and Im on year 4 of ownership with 43K miles.
It does have a lazy crank sometimes, when it cold. This doesn't really bother me too much.

But I have been noticing that when I release the clutch sometimes (In Neutral), the engine will surge.
The the engine will rev to 1'500rpm them drop back down.
I'm wondering if this is the reason for the "Engine System Fault" message.

Also wondering if any of you have had this same type of issue.
time to replace the battery. or get a charger. or both.
 

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Just had a quick question.
I've been receiving an error message at start-up.
"Engine System Fault"
It would go away very quickly, like one second and its gone.
I do still have the same battery, and Im on year 4 of ownership with 43K miles.
It does have a lazy crank sometimes, when it cold. This doesn't really bother me too much.

But I have been noticing that when I release the clutch sometimes (In Neutral), the engine will surge.
The the engine will rev to 1'500rpm them drop back down.
I'm wondering if this is the reason for the "Engine System Fault" message.

Also wondering if any of you have had this same type of issue.
Had this happen too, dealer replaced the neutral position sensor (or something that sounded like this) and it fixed it. Symptoms were exactly as described, the error message was on for perhaps less than one second and sometimes the revs would raise when releasing clutch in neutral (maybe thay shift assist thing giving gas thinking you’re not in neutral...).

It did come back two years later though and I’ve been lazy waiting to have a better reason to go back to the dealer. Seems to happen more often after being parked on an incline but this might just be the fact it’s also outside all night at that specific location (gf’s house) vs in my heated garage...
 

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I wonder if its hard to change the "Neutral Position Sensor".
Has anyone on here changed it themselves?
I just cant trust dealers to even do an oil change correctly.

1st oil change that I took my car in for, they used the regular focus oil and I had oil on my valve cover, inlet manifold and fan shroud.
 

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I changed my wiper blades yesterday (yes, man stuff!) and now when I start the car they come on one time. I googled this and didn't see anything. Any ideas?
 

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I changed my wiper blades yesterday (yes, man stuff!) and now when I start the car they come on one time. I googled this and didn't see anything. Any ideas?
I‘ve noticed if I raise the blades for cleaning., they reposition themselves upon starting. Especially on our Escape. Some tines they will make a full pass. But just once, not each startup. Good question.
 

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I changed my wiper blades yesterday (yes, man stuff!) and now when I start the car they come on one time. I googled this and didn't see anything. Any ideas?
maybe they are positioned too high/low on the windshield? maybe adjust them 1 click up/down?
 
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