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Attn: Ask Anything And Not Get Flamed Thread

1036191 Views 2422 Replies 340 Participants Last post by  big jim
4
I think a thread like this could be a very valuable and beneficial tool, specially as this Forum continues to grow and new junior members are added.

At this point, we're all new to this Forum, but as time passes, the NOW junior members will be senior members. We'll continue to see the Forum grow with new junior members.

It was a very popular thread in another Forum and a safe place for new junior members to post questions (within Forum rules/guidelines) without fear of being flamed.

So please respond kindly and keep it fun.

Cheers!

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Is there an aftermarket clutch that won't destroy syncros? I'm looking for a replacement flywheel and clutch due to wear and hotspots while my engine is out. Most people online are running Clutchmasters kits with seemingly no issues, but they also haven't given any updates in 2+ years since they put it in.
CM works well with a OEM DMF. Might be fine on the synchros, but I can’t say for sure because I installed upgraded synchros at the same time.
Stick with the FX250 or FX100 for longer life. My FX400 is still hanging in after a bit over two years and at least 20,000 miles.
CM works well with a OEM DMF. Might be fine on the synchros, but I can’t say for sure because I installed upgraded synchros at the same time.
Stick with the FX250 or FX100 for longer life. My FX400 is still hanging in after a bit over two years and at least 20,000 miles.
Any idea what the torque rating on the FX250 is? I figure with a better engine I can tune for more power so I can take advantage of the NX2/PTE, >500HP probably. I was looking at the FX350 but if the 250 can hold that and is easier on the transmission then that's probably what I'll end up getting.
Any idea what the torque rating on the FX250 is? I figure with a better engine I can tune for more power so I can take advantage of the NX2/PTE, >500HP probably. I was looking at the FX350 but if the 250 can hold that and is easier on the transmission then that's probably what I'll end up getting.
They state 110% over stock. I’ve heard they are pretty responsive to customer inquiries. Send them a message and let them know what you’re looking for and they should be able to help.
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I emailed CM asking about a ~500hp scenario for an RS. Here's their reps reply for anyone that comes across this in the future:

The FX100 - FX500 all use the same pressure plate, only difference is the disc material. So with that being said you should not have issues with your synchros with our units.

At that power level I would be considering the FX400, however if plan to not really abuse the car and it will be more of a daily driver then the FX350 should be ok. However if you plan to have fun with the car then the FX400 would be the better choice.
Obviously they aren't going to tell me that their clutch will break our syncros, so don't take that as a guarantee of longevity, but it gives a good idea of what we'll need for the power.
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So I was at an ice driving event yesterday and the other RS owners said our doors have aluminum skins instead of the std Focus doors that have steel skins.

Anybody know if this is true or not?

I replaced a door with a regular focus door 3 years ago and didnt care much about any difference but I didnt realise it may be weighting a bit more if our doors are truly using aluminum skins!

I didnt have time to stick a magnet to my front driver side door (the one I replaced) and the other three to compare…

Apart from the holes for the fancy door protector mechanism they have in Europe as an option I always assumed they were otherwise identical!
So I was at an ice driving event yesterday and the other RS owners said our doors have aluminum skins instead of the std Focus doors that have steel skins.

Anybody know if this is true or not?

I replaced a door with a regular focus door 3 years ago and didnt care much about any difference but I didnt realise it may be weighting a bit more if our doors are truly using aluminum skins!

I didnt have time to stick a magnet to my front driver side door (the one I replaced) and the other three to compare…

Apart from the holes for the fancy door protector mechanism they have in Europe as an option I always assumed they were otherwise identical!
Yeah, that's a no.

Curiously, the Focus RS does not use any lightweight materials to replace steel in the body or structure; there are no carbon-fiber or aluminum panels, for instance.
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So I was at an ice driving event yesterday and the other RS owners said our doors have aluminum skins instead of the std Focus doors that have steel skins.
Anybody know if this is true or not?
I replaced a door with a regular focus door 3 years ago and didnt care much about any difference but I didnt realise it may be weighting a bit more if our doors are truly using aluminum skins!
I didnt have time to stick a magnet to my front driver side door (the one I replaced) and the other three to compare…
Apart from the holes for the fancy door protector mechanism they have in Europe as an option I always assumed they were otherwise identical!
Looks like here we have another urban legend or a hoax. No mentions of that in RS training materials and in the marketing campaign detected. The catalogues doesn't give us RS-specific pns for the doors. Actually they have BM5Z (for doors) and CP9Z (for door outer skin panel) prefixes, which means they are inherited from pre-facelift Focus mk3 with some minor changes. If it were RS-specific we would see something like G1EZ.
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So I was at an ice driving event yesterday and the other RS owners said our doors have aluminum skins instead of the std Focus doors that have steel skins.

Anybody know if this is true or not?
Yeah, that's a no.
Yep, my magnetic track numbers have no trouble sticking to my doors lol
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BTW this legend can be easily tested with a regular magnet which shouldn't stick to aluminum.

upd: BigFatFlip, you're ahead of the curve with that :)
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I was going to test it with a magnet tonight! I didnt argue with them at the event but I was pretty sure they were wrong 🤣

Pretty clear they were indeed wrong based on your replies! Thanks for confirming what I thought!!
I have never checked battery life through Torque or anything else, but am i reading this correctly that my battery is @ 18% battery life left ?

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I have never checked battery life through Torque or anything else, but am i reading this correctly that my battery is @ 18% battery life left ?
I'd be curious to see what PID the app is pulling from. Last I checked, it doesn't show "battery life" but it does show age (in days). You might be looking at the battery charge %?

yes, i am assuming that is Charge % left in its lifespan

[Ford]Battery Charge %Batt %0x224028a


I'd be curious to see what PID the app is pulling from. Last I checked, it doesn't show "battery life" but it does show age (in days). You might be looking at the battery charge %?

Does anybody know what PSI the wastegate opens at, without ecu intervention? My NX2 wastegate was adjusted when it was installed and I can't run the OEM tune without reverting the change. It currently opens at 15 psi on its own.
Has anybody gotten a "Brake Lamp Bulb Fault" error before? I've been getting them intermittently but started getting them more frequently lately. They would always go away after a few seconds and I've checked my brake lights a few times and they always have been good. Is it safe to assume they're on their way out? For background, I've got stock brake lights with the diode dynamics reverse lights and turn signals. I also have the red tinted Fiesta 3rd brake light (vs the clear stock ones). I've thought of upgrading to the diode dynamics brake lights but didn't want them to be brighter than the 3rd brake light.
Has anybody gotten a "Brake Lamp Bulb Fault" error before? I've been getting them intermittently but started getting them more frequently lately. They would always go away after a few seconds and I've checked my brake lights a few times and they always have been good. Is it safe to assume they're on their way out? For background, I've got stock brake lights with the diode dynamics reverse lights and turn signals. I also have the red tinted Fiesta 3rd brake light (vs the clear stock ones). I've thought of upgrading to the diode dynamics brake lights but didn't want them to be brighter than the 3rd brake light.
Check in FORScan. It will at least tell you what side.
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My battery is totally dead so I have to replace in my garage. I don't have the capabilities to re-program the BMS after replacing the battery so I was going to drive to Ford and have them do it. Will it be ok to drive the car a short distance to Ford without re-programming the BMS?
My battery is totally dead so I have to replace in my garage. I don't have the capabilities to re-program the BMS after replacing the battery so I was going to drive to Ford and have them do it. Will it be ok to drive the car a short distance to Ford without re-programming the BMS?
I believe the instructions to reset the BMS yourself are in this thread:

I saved it for when my battery dies which should happen sooner than later (original battery / early ‘16 build)!
I believe the instructions to reset the BMS yourself are in this thread:

I saved it for when my battery dies which should happen sooner than later (original battery / early ‘16 build)!
Thanks!
My battery is totally dead so I have to replace in my garage. I don't have the capabilities to re-program the BMS after replacing the battery so I was going to drive to Ford and have them do it. Will it be ok to drive the car a short distance to Ford without re-programming the BMS?
Do you keep your RS on a battery tender? I still have my original battery.
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