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2018 NB LE
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My first thought is clutch slip as well. When the clutch is starting to slip, it will typically slip in the higher gears where there is more load, like what you are experiencing now.
Same thoughts here. On non-turbo cars I always tested this by revving out 1st, putting it in 4th, and flooring it at a low RPM. If it started slipping it was usually a sign the clutch was worn out. I would advise you don't do that with the RS due to LSPI and all.

The way I test turbo cars is get a nice, smooth, straight road, get into 3rd and at a safe RPM (2500-3000), just floor it. If the car consistently pulls and no funny RPM jumps your clutch is likely okay.
 

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Any good fixes for a squeaky exhaust valve? I’m trying some dry lube spray. Just curious if anyone else has had the issue and resolved it.
 

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Anyone ever run at the track without the fiberglass piece over the strut brace? I took it off while hunting down a noise from the struts. With the piece removed, engine bay air can vent through the wiper cowl plastic covers. Might be a quick, basically free way to get hot air out of the engine bay. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Anyone ever run at the track without the fiberglass piece over the strut brace? I took it off while hunting down a noise from the struts. With the piece removed, engine bay air can vent through the wiper cowl plastic covers. Might be a quick, basically free way to get hot air out of the engine bay.
I read somewhere here removed the weather stripping and was enough to vent. I want to try that and add some string to see where the air goes, in, out or flat in comparison to it installed
 

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2016 NB
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WD-40 didn’t work for more than a day. Probably just burns off.
More likely because WD-40 is not a lube at all. It is good at dissolution of rusty and stuck things - and it looks like a lubricating, but only for a short period of time.
It also washes away the lube remained and that's why the things are getting even worse pretty shortly - if a proper lube is not applied afterwards.
I tried to spray a liquid spray lube Wurth 2000, but it doesn't last for long. I guess I need a higher temp-resistant one.
 

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More likely because WD-40 is not a lube at all. It is good at dissolution of rusty and stuck things - and it looks like a lubricating, but only for a short period of time.
It also washes away the lube remained and that's why the things are getting even worse pretty shortly - if a proper lube is not applied afterwards.
I tried to spray a liquid spray lube Wurth 2000, but it doesn't last for long. I guess I need a higher temp-resistant one.
It didn’t get worse with WD-40. It got better, but then went back to making the noise. WD-40 does say lubricant. Rust Inhibitor and Lubricant: Travel-Sized Handy Can | WD-40

But reading the WD-40 specifications it looks like the flash point and operating temps are way too low to be effective on the exhaust valve. It was worth a shot since I already had it.
 
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It didn’t get worse with WD-40. It got better, but then went back to making the noise. WD-40 does say lubricant.
Huh, that's what I'm talking about: it gets better only for a short term.
And yes, that's what their marketing say. They even advice use WD-40 for the bike chains. But have you ever seen in your life that marketing guys sugarcoat and saying not all the truth? That's their job actually.
Let's check the info: reddit - YouShouldKnow, Stackexchange and here is a more detailed explanation Using WD-40 as a Lubricant: Yes or No? – Clever Creations
It technically is a lubricant

Secondly, it is marketed and sold as a lubricant. And while that is technically correct, that does not mean that you should use it as one. Let me explain.

A lubricant is a substance that reduces friction between surfaces that are in contact with each other. There are many liquids (and even solids) that meet this criterion. Even plain water is a lubricant, albeit one that does not give good results.

WD-40 is similar. Its lubricating properties are limited and they are only around for a short amount of time.
 

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Started taking my RS to the track this year and I have used up a lot of my OEM rotors and pads. I am curious if I upgrade to 2 piece rotors and upgraded pads will I notice any difference in how long they last for both daily driving and track/autocross? I drive 70 miles a day and about 3-4 track events a year.
 

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Started taking my RS to the track this year and I have used up a lot of my OEM rotors and pads. I am curious if I upgrade to 2 piece rotors and upgraded pads will I notice any difference in how long they last for both daily driving and track/autocross? I drive 70 miles a day and about 3-4 track events a year.
brake pads, brake fluid, brake lines will certainly prolong your brake fade. look into EBC blue or EBC rpx pads.
larger rotors (32mm) will do you wonders too
stock rotors are 25mm
 

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I’ve been told that a Lithium battery will last 4 times longer than an equal spec lead-acid.

Is this just marketing mumbo-jumbo, or do they actually last that long?

I typically get about 3 years out of a lead-acid battery, and was wondering whether lithium batteries were worth it?

The OEM battery costs about 260USD where I live, while the equivalent Lithium battery is about 760USD.
 

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I figured this is the safe zone to ask. Took my RS in due to the oil leak that they have been saying "it's not the head gasket". Well last week the changed the valve cover gasket and resealed the timing cover. I am getting rev hang and surging at idle, bounces around 200 rpm when warm and idling. I popped off the top cover to have a look for any obvious vacuum line issues and It looks like they missed some stuff putting it back together. So I'm here for a sanity check before confronting the dealer. I've circled in red where it looks like there should be something there, some spots are awfully clean for not having a fastener or something there. Also, for the coil wire bracket, should there be a fastener on top of it, or does it just slips over the nut and call it good. Want to make sure my ducks are in a row before I go in with guns a blazing.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Vehicle Automotive exterior
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Circled in blue is a broken grommet/clip for the engine cover. It should have a plastic ball on top. Blue arrow stud is missing the grommet for the intake. All the brass colored fasteners are normal.

edit: the red circled harness clip is normal.
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I figured this is the safe zone to ask. Took my RS in due to the oil leak that they have been saying "it's not the head gasket". Well last week the changed the valve cover gasket and resealed the timing cover. I am getting rev hang and surging at idle, bounces around 200 rpm when warm and idling. I popped off the top cover to have a look for any obvious vacuum line issues and It looks like they missed some stuff putting it back together. So I'm here for a sanity check before confronting the dealer. I've circled in red where it looks like there should be something there, some spots are awfully clean for not having a fastener or something there. Also, for the coil wire bracket, should there be a fastener on top of it, or does it just slips over the nut and call it good. Want to make sure my ducks are in a row before I go in with guns a blazing.
View attachment 362904 View attachment 362905 View attachment 362907 View attachment 362908
Wow! What a shi7 job
 

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Started taking my RS to the track this year and I have used up a lot of my OEM rotors and pads. I am curious if I upgrade to 2 piece rotors and upgraded pads will I notice any difference in how long they last for both daily driving and track/autocross? I drive 70 miles a day and about 3-4 track events a year.
Our easiest solution would be the Bluestuff pads, a street / track hybrid that bed relatively quickly, work great from cold and deliver a strong bite at high temps of 0-550°C (Ambient – 1000°F)

If capable you could have a set of RPX/RP1 pads that are dedicated to the track, for which you can install as and when needed, and then have a street set like Yellowstuff if performance still needed for street or Redstuff if you prefer a low dust long lasting pad. You could also swap out the rotors, but i understand this may be a lot of work.

Bedding info found here
 

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Anybody’s dealership let them keep a service request open but if the queue is long let them keep the car until the tech is ready to begin diagnostics and work without losing their place in line?
 
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