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i am struggling with overheating at the track, first was oil so i added a mishimoto kit. Now my oil is ok (hitting 230F) but my coolant is too high and cutting power (assume since i am not blocking my rad). I am running meth and have the mountune rad. My next thoughts were a vented hood (do the hot air has somewhere to go), run water wetter and distilled water during track days and remove the fan and shroud on track days (not sure how difficult it is). Any other thoughts?
what tracks have you had issues with? Our cars have pretty similar mods (FBO + WMI).

when I was stock I had issues at the ridge in Washington, middle of summer. Temps didn’t get crazy dangerous but I did have the awd turn off.

VIMC I’ve never had any issues. A27 last year during the heat dome was intense, 39° ambient, 60°c tarmac temps. I did every 20 minute session with no cool down laps, I don’t remember the numbers but coolant AND oil never went past half. Not once, I was in total awe on how well the car did.

stock radiator, original coolant. No oil cooler, no turbo blanket etc. The only real difference in our setup is that I have the vented hood, and I also removed my fog lights For max airflow.

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what tracks have you had issues with? Our cars have pretty similar mods (FBO + WMI).

when I was stock I had issues at the ridge in Washington, middle of summer. Temps didn’t get crazy dangerous but I did have the awd turn off.

VIMC I’ve never had any issues. A27 last year during the heat dome was intense, 39° ambient, 60°c tarmac temps. I did every 20 minute session with no cool down laps, I don’t remember the numbers but coolant AND oil never went past half. Not once, I was in total awe on how well the car did.

stock radiator, original coolant. No oil cooler, no turbo blanket etc. The only real difference in our setup is that I have the vented hood, and I also removed my fog lights For max airflow.

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My first track day i was pushing 3/4+ on the stock oil temp gauge and half way on the coolant (mountune rad). so i added the mishimoto oil cooler and aftermarket gauges and am hitting 230F which is perfect, but coolant is pushing past 3/4 on the stock gauge and going into limp mode. This is after 1 warm up and 2 hot laps at 30C ambient.

I am looking to fins a stock hood, gut it and add the vents below and only use it for track days.

I am also looking at relocating the oil cooler. I have a large space where the stock battery used to be (i moved mine to the trunk) that may work if i add a thermostatic fan. Its not an ideal location, but the cooler did add 1 quart of oil to the system.
 

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Don't think relocating the oil cooler to the battery location will work. You are only going to be recirculating hot air through the cooler. You need cool air. Better to move it to fog light position or similar.
Maybe we should create a new thread for this topic?

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Don't think relocating the oil cooler to the battery location will work. You are only going to be recirculating hot air through the cooler. You need cool air. Better to move it to fog light position or similar.
Maybe we should create a new thread for this topic?

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i dont know how much room there is behind the fog lights. you may have to run 2 smaller coolers on either side.
 

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i dont know how much room there is behind the fog lights. you may have to run 2 smaller coolers on either side.
The mishi cooler definitely won't fit. But my airtec may.
I'll see how my setup goes once I'm back on the road and at a track. Had issues before running just FBO. Will see what happens with a forged motor and nx2 turbo making a lot more power.

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The Mishimoto oil cooler is large enough to function on its own. Have you also thought about removing the OE water/oil cooler so the oil isn't heating up the coolant?

In addition to the engine, the radiator is cooling the oil, turbo, and PTU. I think it would be ideal if you could reduce what the radiator is responsible for. Before next summer I'm planning on doing this, and was going to use the 2.3L Mustang oil filter adapter, since it's not threaded on the top for the OE cooler.

It's been about 115F here, and cruising around on the freeways around 80-90mph will get the oil around 220F, and I have the Mountune radiator. That's just sustaining the speed too.. not rapidly accelerating or anything.

Mishimoto tested that setup and showed that the oil was slightly hotter without the water/oil cooler, but the coolant was slightly cooler.
 

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I was considering your idea already.
It's the middle of winter here so I can't do much testing.
But your idea of using the mustang oil filter adaptor is a good one.
I'd like to monitor both inlet and outlet oil temps on the oil cooler also. May have to look at hooking up another gauge.

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The Mustang adapter is a little different, and I'm not exactly sure how it keeps the clean and dirty oil apart. I haven't gotten one to check out in person yet, but I figured worst case the recessions for the o-ring gasket could be filled in so our Focus gasket could be used. I haven't made it that far yet, and I'm just basing this on pictures from parts.ford.com of the oil filter adapters for the Focus and the Mustang, and their gaskets.

Another benefit is that the intake route near the throttle body would be more open too, so you wouldn't need an offset coupler if you have a larger throttle body.
 

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Anyone come across a car with a worse battery location?
Audi 100 C4 and BMW 5-series E34 had battery under the backseat. And if you installed a wrong battery (i.e. too high) there's a chance that the seat support wires can touch the battery terminals - and here we go, a shortage!

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ps: didn't see the BigFatFlip's post when was writing mine. looks like we're talking about the same kind of issue.
 

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The Mustang adapter is a little different, and I'm not exactly sure how it keeps the clean and dirty oil apart. I haven't gotten one to check out in person yet, but I figured worst case the recessions for the o-ring gasket could be filled in so our Focus gasket could be used. I haven't made it that far yet, and I'm just basing this on pictures from parts.ford.com of the oil filter adapters for the Focus and the Mustang, and their gaskets.

Another benefit is that the intake route near the throttle body would be more open too, so you wouldn't need an offset coupler if you have a larger throttle body.
Keep us updated.
Keen to see the results.

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i dont know how much room there is behind the fog lights. you may have to run 2 smaller coolers on either side.
That’s my eventual plan, inspiration from another member here… I’ll have to think hard.

run an oil cooler on one side and a PTU cooler on the other. Remove fog lights (already done) and I have the DMGfab aluminum ‘splitter’ so theres An easy strong mounting spot for them
 

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Just noticed a creaking sound coming from my front passenger brakes. Noise seems to be related to brake pedal pressure (ie sound comes on when I depress the brake pedal and keeps going the harder I press, both moving and stationary). I've gone ahead and "serviced" the brakes (brake fluid flush, cleaned calipers and regreased all the contact points) but the noise persists. Also checked that the pistons move freely and the boots are not torn.

I've gotten a similar issue in the past on another car, which turned out to be a siezed rear brake caliper slide pin, but our front Brembos don't have these.

Any suggestions on what else to look at?
 

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How is the COBB OTS Stage 2 Tune, and is it usable if I do not have any COBB parts installed ( i do have an ETS Intercooler /w Pipes , and CP-E Intake )
 

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How is the COBB OTS Stage 2 Tune, and is it usable if I do not have any COBB parts installed ( i do have an ETS Intercooler /w Pipes , and CP-E Intake )
In general you dont need any specific "brand" parts to utilize a tune only the parts themselves (so long as they work as described). Just make sure your tune stage is on the same page as the "stage" of parts needed such as fmic downpipe etc.
 

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I was just musing on why youtubers with rally simgames wave the wheel around a lot while real expert rally drivers don't. Got me thinking why we use the wheel and why the wheel is used for initial turn in then often retur Ed to straight ahead mid corner. Anyway.... just an amusing contemplation and thoughts welcome.

One thing to remember is we do a lot of steering with gentle left foot and trail braking, steering is used for initial turn in and once set steering is returned to near neutral while staying on throttle. Light braking steers car by changing front back weight balance hence grip. All this relies on the cars inherent fastest cornering stance. I rallied a laser tx3 turbo 4wd (mk 2escort before that ... way nicer). Fastest stance was oversteer body angle with almost straight ahead steering with a hint of understeer lock and relying on all 4 wheels dragging you around corner under power .... we even cut our tyres to emphasise forward grip and braking. Oversteer lock, or steering into the slide, was slower. You can see how changing forward back balance inherently changes rotation and steers the car. In many respects, the steering wheel is the coarse control and is only needed again if one or other end goes beyond its slip limits. All this to say that in most cars a expert rally driver does not seem to do much steering ..... it's like a duck paddling ... have a look at Walter Rorhls feet in the famous video. Anyway .... end of ramble for today
 

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Occasionally when I’m giving it full throttle the revs will climb but the car won’t go any faster. This only occurs when I either start from a stop after shifting from 1st to 2nd and 3rd (in other words, 1st will be fine and I’ll be able to redline it but when I shift to 2nd and get back on the gas the revs climb but the car doesn’t move, then I’ll shift to 3rd and the same thing.) or this will happen on the highway typically when I downshift into 4th to pass someone.

Additionally, I get the sensation that the car is “jerking” ever so slightly when I’m cruising with the revs between 2500-3100.

The engine doesn’t make any odd sounds and there’s never been any gear grinding during these episodes though sometimes a quick 1-2 shift will grind independent of these symptoms.

Would like some input from the community. I’m thinking clutch slippage? A bad synchro could explain the rare grind but not the “stuttering”.

Car has about 58000 miles and a light tune from Stratified. Stock clutch and internals.
 

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Occasionally when I’m giving it full throttle the revs will climb but the car won’t go any faster. This only occurs when I either start from a stop after shifting from 1st to 2nd and 3rd (in other words, 1st will be fine and I’ll be able to redline it but when I shift to 2nd and get back on the gas the revs climb but the car doesn’t move, then I’ll shift to 3rd and the same thing.) or this will happen on the highway typically when I downshift into 4th to pass someone.

Additionally, I get the sensation that the car is “jerking” ever so slightly when I’m cruising with the revs between 2500-3100.

The engine doesn’t make any odd sounds and there’s never been any gear grinding during these episodes though sometimes a quick 1-2 shift will grind independent of these symptoms.

Would like some input from the community. I’m thinking clutch slippage? A bad synchro could explain the rare grind but not the “stuttering”.

Car has about 58000 miles and a light tune from Stratified. Stock clutch and internals.
My first thought is clutch slip as well. When the clutch is starting to slip, it will typically slip in the higher gears where there is more load, like what you are experiencing now.
 
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