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I feel your pain, it was a fight to get one clip on that was all I could get. I've monitored it for about 1k miles at this point so I think it is okay.

Not sure if that is normal or not, there is next to zero info out there for the mountune radiator for the RS
 

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For anyone that's installed the Mountune radiator, did you have any issues with the small clip-on hose? Mine seems like the plastic end is too big, or the receiving end on the radiator is too small. It was hard to remove it from the OE radiator, but that might have just been the o-ring... but I'm not sure. I tried to really force it in, but barely got the o-ring in before it just wouldn't go any further, but it still needed to go in another 2-3mm before it could clip. I did lubricate it too.

Related.... I broke off one of the clips. Has anyone had to replace that, and done so with out replacing the whole spaghetti mess of small hoses that comes with it, if you get it from Ford?

It's a pain in the junk to hook up. You have to keep wiggling it on, probably took me at least 15 minutes. I got it on without anything extra, I didn't want to add lube becasue the orange coolant is sensitive to contaminants. Be careful to not bend the metal part of the radiator too much and crack it where it connects.

You're almost there!
 

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It's a pain in the junk to hook up. You have to keep wiggling it on, probably took me at least 15 minutes. I got it on without anything extra, I didn't want to add lube becasue the orange coolant is sensitive to contaminants. Be careful to not bend the metal part of the radiator too much and crack it where it connects.

You're almost there!
I think you got lucky, I spent a good hour and ended up taking a flat head and tapping one side on, but the other side just would not cooperate!

I used a tiny bit of the silicone grease/lube that the hose kits come with which certainly helped. Figured it was safe for coolant, if not, I'll just change it again 🤷‍♂️
 

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I think you got lucky, I spent a good hour and ended up taking a flat head and tapping one side on, but the other side just would not cooperate!

I used a tiny bit of the silicone grease/lube that the hose kits come with which certainly helped. Figured it was safe for coolant, if not, I'll just change it again 🤷‍♂️
Swapping the radiator was a huge pain. The whole time while doing it I was asking myself why I was doing so on a street car.

I'll be keeping this car for a long time, the parts are available now and I have the time, so I just did it. I don't trust plastic end tanks after 10 or so years.
 

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Swapping the radiator was a huge pain. The whole time while doing it I was asking myself why I was doing so on a street car.

I'll be keeping this car for a long time, the parts are available now and I have the time, so I just did it. I don't trust plastic end tanks after 10 or so years.
I did it at the same time as doing the intercooler so I was 90% of the way there and it became a part of the "while I am in there" list.

I agree on the self doubt, especially when I discovered my AC condenser was hit by something at some point in the past. However I have noticed on more spirited drives on hot days that the coolant gauge stays pegged right in the middle and the oil temp barely moves. AP logging also shows a much smaller increase in temps for coolant (can't verify oil temp) so I would say it is a worthwhile upgrade just for engine longevity. Also no noticeable increase in warm up times on cold mornings either, it does "stall" a bit longer around the temp where the thermostat is opening but at that point things are pretty warmed up so who cares.
 

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Thanks for all the replies, and that makes me feel better.... or a little less crazy. I was thinking about pulling the o-ring off and sanding the plastic connector a bit too (with 2000 grit), which I may still do.

The good thing is I'm also replacing the expansion tank with the Radium one, and the plastic connector at that end (that gets removed) appears to be the same size... so I might end up with a spare to try again with. I stopped trying when I thought I saw the aluminum radiator tube move a bit. For something that doesn't just slip on, I wish Mountune would have reinforced that tube.

So I'll try again, and be more patient and persistent!

My car radiator experience (even with the RS) has been that the radiators are sized just enough for daily driving in mid-summer here. Anything more and it starts over powering the fan. That's also why a colder thermostat is pretty pointless here. So I upgraded the radiator for lower daily temps, but also to help keep temps down while autocrossing.
 

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The pads fit multiple rotors. The RS rear brake rotor is not compatible with the ST (unless you use a different bracket). The caliper and pad are swappable, as long as the correct rotor is used. BRRF252 are not the same as G1FZ-2C026-A, they’re BV6Z-2C026-C.
ok. so now I'm even more confused. Different websites point to different part numbers. Can anyone confirm what is the correct rear rotor part number?

Ford Service Part: ?
Motorcraft Part number: ?
 

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Thanks for all the replies, and that makes me feel better.... or a little less crazy. I was thinking about pulling the o-ring off and sanding the plastic connector a bit too (with 2000 grit), which I may still do.

The good thing is I'm also replacing the expansion tank with the Radium one, and the plastic connector at that end (that gets removed) appears to be the same size... so I might end up with a spare to try again with. I stopped trying when I thought I saw the aluminum radiator tube move a bit. For something that doesn't just slip on, I wish Mountune would have reinforced that tube.

So I'll try again, and be more patient and persistent!

My car radiator experience (even with the RS) has been that the radiators are sized just enough for daily driving in mid-summer here. Anything more and it starts over powering the fan. That's also why a colder thermostat is pretty pointless here. So I upgraded the radiator for lower daily temps, but also to help keep temps down while autocrossing.
You doing silicone radiator hoses too? Sounds just like my setup haha.

You bringing this up had me thinking, I might find a radiator hose that can slip over that fitting and put a clamp on it. Since the pipe coming off the radiator has the flared end, it should have no issue holding...
 

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You doing silicone radiator hoses too? Sounds just like my setup haha.

You bringing this up had me thinking, I might find a radiator hose that can slip over that fitting and put a clamp on it. Since the pipe coming off the radiator has the flared end, it should have no issue holding...

When I got the Mountune radiator, they had the radiator hose kit on sale at the same time.
 
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You doing silicone radiator hoses too? Sounds just like my setup haha.

You bringing this up had me thinking, I might find a radiator hose that can slip over that fitting and put a clamp on it. Since the pipe coming off the radiator has the flared end, it should have no issue holding...
Hah, yep! I went with the 3-piece Mountune silicone hose.

I wondered how well the hose would fit without the plastic end too. The barb is sharper than a hose barb... so I'd be a little concerned about it cutting into the hose once it's clamped.

You know if Radium made the radiator, they would have ditched the plastic clip. Mountune is too much of a direct replacement :D
 

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Hah, yep! I went with the 3-piece Mountune silicone hose.

I wondered how well the hose would fit without the plastic end too. The barb is sharper than a hose barb... so I'd be a little concerned about it cutting into the hose once it's clamped.

You know if Radium made the radiator, they would have ditched the plastic clip. Mountune is too much of a direct replacement :D
Yup! They would have included a 18" piece of hose that you need to cut precisely 15" of and then the other 3" for another critical part haha

Worst part of the hoses was the driver side one did NOT want to let go of the Y-fitting under the intake. Had to take the other side off, put it in my vice and pull at it like Excalibur.

Oh, not sure how you are bleeding the cooling system, I filled it in stages as I put hoses back on and then filled the tank and let it all warm up. Still took about 300 miles for the coolant level in the reservoir to stay the same drive after drive. I think the 'proper' method is to pull vacuum and then suck the coolant in, I just didn't have one on hand and took the chance.
 

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Yup! They would have included a 18" piece of hose that you need to cut precisely 15" of and then the other 3" for another critical part haha

Worst part of the hoses was the driver side one did NOT want to let go of the Y-fitting under the intake. Had to take the other side off, put it in my vice and pull at it like Excalibur.

Oh, not sure how you are bleeding the cooling system, I filled it in stages as I put hoses back on and then filled the tank and let it all warm up. Still took about 300 miles for the coolant level in the reservoir to stay the same drive after drive. I think the 'proper' method is to pull vacuum and then suck the coolant in, I just didn't have one on hand and took the chance.
No kidding about the Radium instructions!

None of my rubber hoses wanted to let go. I used a smaller screw driver to try to get under the lip to help break them free and eventually got them all off. It's actually a long thin screw driver that I curved in a vice to make a tool to remove the rear view mirror from my Edge. Since then it has become one of my go-to tools for odd small prying, that is rarely put away because I use it so often.

I was hoping to get the vacuum filler for it, but I think my air compressor is much too small to run that tool. I was just planning on following the non-vacuum instructions in the workshop manual... running it to 3500 for 30 seconds several times, etc.
 

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Anyone have to replace their clutch yet? How many miles and how hard do you drive? Is it your daily driver?
Depends on how much the car was abused. The previous owner burned a lot of wheel sets with my RS.
As a result, when I bought the car with 47K km (~ 30K miles) on odo, the clutch was already stinking after a couple of fast but not extreme launches. There was an issue with the flywheel also - a inside ribbon guide found broken. But it was possible to get things fixed.
 

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ok. so now I'm even more confused. Different websites point to different part numbers. Can anyone confirm what is the correct rear rotor part number?

Ford Service Part:
Motorcraft Part number: ?
Focus RS rear rotor = G1FZ-2C026-A
 

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No kidding about the Radium instructions!

None of my rubber hoses wanted to let go. I used a smaller screw driver to try to get under the lip to help break them free and eventually got them all off. It's actually a long thin screw driver that I curved in a vice to make a tool to remove the rear view mirror from my Edge. Since then it has become one of my go-to tools for odd small prying, that is rarely put away because I use it so often.

I was hoping to get the vacuum filler for it, but I think my air compressor is much too small to run that tool. I was just planning on following the non-vacuum instructions in the workshop manual... running it to 3500 for 30 seconds several times, etc.
Got it! I removed the plastic clip end from the expansion tank side, pulled the o-ring, and sanded it a while with 800 grit, then 1000 grit. I put the o-ring back on, swapped the connector for the broken one, lubed it with some coolant, then got it in. It was still snug, but slid in a little easier than my first attempt. Thanks all for the encouragement!

 

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Hi, I am thinking about changing my Mountune sportscat, with a straightpipe, to connect the rest of the V3 system.
Does anybody know a place to buy a direct replacement?

I would like to avoid UK because of the VAT, but in the end its not a deal killer.

Thx. Martin.
 

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Hi, I am thinking about changing my Mountune sportscat, with a straightpipe, to connect the rest of the V3 system.
Does anybody know a place to buy a direct replacement?

I would like to avoid UK because of the VAT, but in the end its not a deal killer.
I would imagine any local muffler shop would be able to make you a custom exhaust, specially if it's just goin to be straight pipe. At least that's the case in the US.
 

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Changed the oil a few days ago and saw signs of a leak:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Rim Automotive exterior

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle


This is what the tray looks like:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Asphalt


Seems like it would be an old leak if there is one. Or is it just dirty getting through the holes in the tray?

Last time I changed the oil was in August, so I honestly cannot remember if this was there or not.
 
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