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Attn: Ask Anything And Not Get Flamed Thread

1036144 Views 2422 Replies 340 Participants Last post by  big jim
I think a thread like this could be a very valuable and beneficial tool, specially as this Forum continues to grow and new junior members are added.

At this point, we're all new to this Forum, but as time passes, the NOW junior members will be senior members. We'll continue to see the Forum grow with new junior members.

It was a very popular thread in another Forum and a safe place for new junior members to post questions (within Forum rules/guidelines) without fear of being flamed.

So please respond kindly and keep it fun.



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Hi all -- recently picked up ST Suspensions 12.5mm DZX spacer kit.

Question is about the open ended shanked nuts. Has anyone found a solution to 'close up' the nuts? I see the stud thread is continued throughout the nut and could accommodate a threaded-on cover but not sure if those exist. Would love a solution to avoid corrosion, especially come winter time. Any input appreciated.


Bought those covers for this exact reason, have yet to install them tough so cant comment on how good they work and stay in place, as well as how easy they can be removed when required.

Edit: here’s the link...

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I saw the Ford tech pull my driver seat out without even popping the hood and asked if he should have disconnected the battery first.

Seems like this step was not part of his manual’s instructions. I would have disconnected it if I had done it myself just in case.

No popcorn although it would have been on their cost at least being in the shop!

Edit: Mine was driver seat, he pulled it out from driver front door and managed not to hit the steering wheel, I remember another thread where someone had pulled it at the back through the rear hatch (rear seats down obviously) which is probably what I would have tried to minimize risk of hitting the steering wheel or door inner panels.
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If I recall correctly, the shop manual actually goes a step farther and has a procedure of bridging a circuit with a jumper tool to discharge any remaining charge in the system. After install, it also makes you use a similar tool to turn on the car from the engine compartment to ensure that no body is in the seat if the air bags were to deploy. I'm lazy, so I just disconnect the battery for a few hours before working on it.

I tried pulling it out of the driver seat first time I did it, but the seat base mounts have sharp edges that cut into the plastic lower door trims. I found it easier to recline the seat so it's somewhat flat and then thread it out of the rear door.
Wow I guess they just skipped that part! I’m happy it didnt blow it would have taken forever to have a replacement again!
Is this really how it works?

I always thought it worked this way:
  • Push the ESC button —> Sports mode (traction control off/ESC more permissive)
  • Push and hold —> Turns both traction control and ESC off

If the push/hold didnt turn ESC fully off I expect it would still kick in while ice driving which it does not! Otherwise unless I’m going to need it off on purpose I use sports mode all the time to allow for wheel slip and less invasion from ESC but keep some electronic safeguard when the unexpected happens. This lets you have some fun at low speed without too much intervention from the ESC.

I do get the light blinking (edit: the upper one same as posted in posts above) sometimes when pushing beyond what is allowed by the sports mode as described above. I hope this helps and just not add to the confusion about those ESC modes!!
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Sept. 2016 Build here. Stock battery still, never used the auto start/stop. Winter driven, cold starts, the whole 9 yards. Haven't noticed any degradation so far, suppose I should start paying attention if others have had issues.
Exact same thing here except mine is parked indoors in my garage so perhaps less cold starts...but June 2016 delivery still going strong on stock battery.

I am also awaiting that day where it just wont ST’s battery failed much faster and so did my ex’s SE battery (fingers crossed)!
Just had a quick question.
I've been receiving an error message at start-up.
"Engine System Fault"
It would go away very quickly, like one second and its gone.
I do still have the same battery, and Im on year 4 of ownership with 43K miles.
It does have a lazy crank sometimes, when it cold. This doesn't really bother me too much.

But I have been noticing that when I release the clutch sometimes (In Neutral), the engine will surge.
The the engine will rev to 1'500rpm them drop back down.
I'm wondering if this is the reason for the "Engine System Fault" message.

Also wondering if any of you have had this same type of issue.
Had this happen too, dealer replaced the neutral position sensor (or something that sounded like this) and it fixed it. Symptoms were exactly as described, the error message was on for perhaps less than one second and sometimes the revs would raise when releasing clutch in neutral (maybe thay shift assist thing giving gas thinking you’re not in neutral...).

It did come back two years later though and I’ve been lazy waiting to have a better reason to go back to the dealer. Seems to happen more often after being parked on an incline but this might just be the fact it’s also outside all night at that specific location (gf’s house) vs in my heated garage...
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The 17in spare most likely only fits over the rear brakes. Any issue with a front wheel/tire could require swapping the rear to the front then installing the spare to the rear wheel.

But…might be the case with their 18in wheel too! I know my Escape spare doesnt fit the front brake, just dont remember if it’s an 18in spare or not.
Stock as far as I know. I will try that thank you.
Mine has done that since I got it at 22k km, only when it gets cold, around freezing and below.

Now at 95k km and never bothered seaching for a cause! Only happens over speed bumps and under sudden compression driving small backroads aggressively (bottom of hills that go right back up or driving over a small depression).

Stock suspension, exhaust, etc…in the area pf rear suspension…

Doesn’t help you fixing it but you’re not alone! I reckon my ST did the same…might be worth searching the ST forums as
I feel stupid but I can't figure out how to turn the radio on with the ignition off or with the door open. Also when I turn the ignition off the radio will continue to play however after a few minutes it turns off and the display message says it's trying to save the battery and I must turn the ignition back on.
Same here I can press the power button with the car off even after opening the door and the radio shutting off…and the radio will play. I believe even if the door remained in the opened position after the radio shut off it’ll also start up the same way…start it sometime when I stop somewhere and my GF stays in the car!

I have been getting the battery saving message lately but my RS is soon to be 6yo with the original battery, I’m surprised it has not let me down yet, didnt happen so quicky before, so perhaps the message will come up faster if your battery is older!

Edit: was not sure the stock bezel had the power button but it does right next to the cd slot! I have had the euro panel for what seems forever now and the power button is integrated to the volume knob!
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I was told I need to replace my driver side ball joint replacement ASAP during my brake change appointment today.

Booked it for Oct.26th, part is 155$cad and comes assembled with the lower control arm. Do these really only come as an assembly with the control arm?

Asking here so not to get flamed! It’s probably all over the forum somewhere else I just didnt search very long and part is not so expensive…need alignment anyways!
Hi all new here wondering if someone can answer this question I have a stripped stud on the turbo down pipe side is it possible to remove and replace it without taken the turbo out
Pretty sure they replaced both of them on my car without removing the turbo (when they replaced the downpipe/Cat). They likelye would have needed more time if they had to remove the turbo on top of replacing the downpipe….others that have done this themselves may confirm better than I do though.
So I swapped to winter tires today and that’s when I noticed the handbrake only locks the LH wheel, RH wheel spins freely. Had brakes done a few weeks ago too.

Has this happened to anybody else on the RS? Quick search ok the internet returns many occurences on various trim levels (SE/ST), likely a bad e-brake cable or caliper…could also be the cable was remove/loosened during brake replacement and but reinstalled properly (I should have at least verified this while jacked but was on a mission to complete the tire swap)!

One more thing to fix I guess 🤣…I’ll pull the RR wheel tomorrow and start from there!

Edit: It snowed yesterday Nov.16th (3 days after I posted) and I used the Nutron drift stick on that day. It seems to have set the pistons/pads somehow better than daily driving and pad bedding stops, now feels like both sides are holding when pulling the e-brake. My driveway is on an incline and I could feel the handbrake barely holding the car prior to yesterday (also left it in gear for that reason), didnt feel this at all yesterday. Also got the satisfying « Tonk » from both rear calipers this morning when the pads let go of the rotors (typical after a storm especially having hooned around in the snow). I’ll jack the car up and see if that wheel is free to turn or not with the ebrake pulled but it seems like it just needed to be abused some to set everything after the new rotors/pads were installed, might just need a small adjustment after all and not a cable or caliper 🤞
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Anybody recognize these wheels from Rays Eng? I cant seem to find what model they are online.

Edit: it was actually on that label, model is the 27Getter, saw them referenced as G27 somewhere else, they seem to be legitimate finally!! Must have been to tired to search properly yesterday evening! Now just wondering about fitment…

Edit2: the more I read about them the more I fear they may be some sort of replica!! I cant seem to find them in 5x108 from any original fitment and pricing is too good to be true for 1150$cad…

A local wheel shop has some in 18x8.5 ET35 at a great price I might be tempted to give them a try, just not sure about the polished lip though…and fitment!

I browsed through the wheels fitment threads and found different opinions on fitment, at 8.5 ET35 this is 8mm more offset outward than my forged wheels with the 12.5mm spacers. I do not like the look of wheels poking from the fenders but feel like the 12.5mm spacers on forged wheels still could have used a bit more offset…but probably not as much as 8mm. Any thoughts or advice? Perhaps not going too wide on tires would minimize the poke effect?

Picture of the wheels from the ad (the inside barrel label is from their add for the 19” version, they didnt post this on the 18” ad…):
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Locking hubs

Automotive tire Hood Sleeve Automotive design Automotive exterior
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@Barroux 8.5 et35 is super standard and doesn’t really poke at all. I find it extremely annoying that soooo many manufacturers won’t offer 5x108 in their more aggressive fitment.

On a stock body that size with 265/35/18 is pretty flush. I run 7mm spacers on top of that
Thanks for your help! Now just need to figure out if they ate legitimate rays wheels or replicas…sure looks pretty good but internet had me worried 😂
Let me know how it goes.......
Seller confirmed they are indeed replicas which is what I suspected based on pricing, bolt pattern which Rays likely never produced in 5x108 for this wheel, etc. He was responsive and very honest about them which was nice from a wheel shop!

They do seem to match the originals very good but I am not willing to gamble on wheel quality if I’m going to track them some day!!
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Replicas I am good with, these are pretty much knock offs (manufacturer stamps but not made by them).

Good the seller is honest.

Are they even real forged wheels?
You are likely right about this (mfg stamps/molds/whatever they use to produce), it’s the material selection and mfg process I wouldn't thrust!

I wasn’t actively looking for wheels anyway, I just came across these looking for 5x108 wheels the other day just for fun and wasnt fan of the polished lip. cant say I’m disappointed!!

I did find these Fifteen52 wheels which would be a perfect fit for the RS but would be too much for me even though they still are very cool! Even got Ken’s stamping on the back of one of the spokes!

Wheel Automotive tire Purple Blue Tread

Purple Violet Magenta Material property Tints and shades

Purple Automotive tire Violet Wheel Alloy wheel

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle
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@Barroux can you send me the name of that shop? Genuinely curious, plus I’m also Canada. Never seen a rep wheel look so accurate, curious what others they sell
Will send you his FB page by PM, does not seem to have a website and seems to offer random wheels/tires…havent searched much in his other adds though. Those replicas definitely are very accurate though!
So I was at an ice driving event yesterday and the other RS owners said our doors have aluminum skins instead of the std Focus doors that have steel skins.

Anybody know if this is true or not?

I replaced a door with a regular focus door 3 years ago and didnt care much about any difference but I didnt realise it may be weighting a bit more if our doors are truly using aluminum skins!

I didnt have time to stick a magnet to my front driver side door (the one I replaced) and the other three to compare…

Apart from the holes for the fancy door protector mechanism they have in Europe as an option I always assumed they were otherwise identical!
I was going to test it with a magnet tonight! I didnt argue with them at the event but I was pretty sure they were wrong 🤣

Pretty clear they were indeed wrong based on your replies! Thanks for confirming what I thought!!
My battery is totally dead so I have to replace in my garage. I don't have the capabilities to re-program the BMS after replacing the battery so I was going to drive to Ford and have them do it. Will it be ok to drive the car a short distance to Ford without re-programming the BMS?
I believe the instructions to reset the BMS yourself are in this thread:

I saved it for when my battery dies which should happen sooner than later (original battery / early ‘16 build)!
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