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Wow this thread has taken off.
OK question 1......No it doesn't. The SSM 47443 and the shop manual amendment was released around 6-8 months after the HG CSA so all the early recalls will have been done without reference to the amendment. It doesn't mean though that the mechanic that does later ones post amendment has actually followed the procedure. many simply don't check the shop manual once they've done a job once or twice if at all.

2. Maybe, possibly. Some post recall cars will be fine and not leak at all and some will. It's down to the quality of the machining I believe. Machining quality is dependent on a few variables such as rate of production and tool wear as 2 obvious examples, there are others.The manufacturer determines the rate versus the quality but there is variation such as when the tooling is changed for example. So fresh sharp tooling will give a better quality of finish than tooling getting to the end of life before sharpening or replacing. That's an example of how variation in quality occurs. Some of the cars with worse machining will probably seep oil and the better ones will be ok. I dont think there is a design issue more a manufacturing issue. As I've said I think Ford has prioritised speed of machining over quality of machining.
Some engines exhibit what I would call "oil sweating" along the head gasket gasket line.They only pass just enough oil to collect dust and dirt that might extend in some spots for an inch or so radius around the location.My RS has this at one location where the oil drain gallery is on the drivers side front of the head block interface. My Wifes 2.0L Escape has the same thing as well. Not worth worrying about and without tearing it apart I cant tell whether its seeping between the layers of the MLS gasket or it's machining on the head and deck. Most likely the machining. I've had other engines exhibit this as well including Ducati superbike and BMW engines which in those cases was down to head/barrel finish. I simply put them on a granite surface plate with fine wet and dry and flatten them off and correct the finish. Problem solved. On a car engine it off to the Machinist I'm afraid.
If your engine has what I've described above it's unlikely to worsen over time but if it has a leak that creates a mess and is enough to causes drips off engine components between oil changes then it needs correction which is different to the dirt gatherers I've described above.
If your factory assembled unmolested engine engine has over 5000 miles on it and doesn't leak or "sweat" along the gasket line then it's probably never going to and you can relax.
If it's a leaker then the best solution from a pure engineering perspective is a strip and machining and careful assembly. Sealant may also do the trick if you do it carefully and competently and its a localised issue.
Sorry for the long post but you now all know most of what I know or think I know about head gasket oil leaks:)Tracing leaks is the next instalment,Ha.

Ciao


Thank you, sir. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain everything & what to look for. It’s extremely helpful, especially for someone like me looking to buy a pre-owned on. Your replies on this forum are greatly appreciated & really makes a difference, whether it’s about the HG’s, warranty, ride quality, drive modes, brakes, prices etc. I learn everyday from reading your detailed posts.


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Thanks Phil - informative post as usual. I've been back to the dealer twice for post-HG oil leaks; I've given up on them ever fixing it properly and have decided to live with the leak I have until I either sell, or get it fixed out-of-warranty by someone competent. I see the warranty as protection against engine failure over the next 2 years.

My question is: what am I risking by running with an oil leak?

In my case the leak is almost certainly from the gasket at the oil feed into the head (i.e. front of engine), as the HG work was done before the update calling for sealant at that point. The oil coats an area 10x15cm with a film on the underside of the sump between 6 month / 6000km inspections. Its hard to tell if any drops onto the under-cover -- I think not. After a recent interstate drive there was no additional oil leaked - so I reckon the leak 'runs' when the engine is heat cycling (much like the coolant into the cycliders). Oil use by the car is negligible i.e. will go 6000km without needing a top up.

As I said, it this point I'm living with it, despite the OCD stress of not having a 'perfect' car. But as you said "it needs correction", I want to ask the question above. Thanks.
The risk of damage or complete failure or oil loss is fairly negligible. It will just be messy and probably wont get worse in the medium term or even longer term. I'm used to oil leaks and monitoring them from my aviation days. It may surprise people to know 95% of the engines on commercial jets we fly around in leak oil to varying degrees and us engineers track and monitor the leak rates and keep them flying.
Doesn't mean I like oil leaks on my cars and bikes though.All the RS oil leaks I've seen come into the messy and aggravating class, not the risky class.

Ciao
 

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Following the thread. I have a 2017 with 17k (Bought used with a lot of Mountune bolt ons including IWG at 7k). When I was WOT in 2nd (daily driver so not many opportunities to go WOT in 3rd) I would see my AP report either roughly 360, 380, or 400HP (I realize numbers aren't reliable but it's a good reference). There was a definite difference in power using my butt dyno. Over time I would be seeing more and more of the 360. When I did log a 360 run I could see that the ECU was retarding timing and OAR could go from -1.0 to -0.95 in one pull. I don't believe it was fuel related because I could do another WOT on the same drive and see timings being advanced and getting the 400HP. Over time though I rarely saw the 400 runs. Anyway I wondered if it was tune related so removed the IWG and went back to stock IWG, loaded up the Cobb Stage 0 (My car came tuned but with no AP so I don't have the stock tune) and put some injector cleaner in it. I have just run that tank down and filled up again but not had chance to do any logs but so far it does at least feel consistent (not great, but consistent). Really hoping this thread finds the culprit and it's an easy fix (wishful thinking).
 

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I bought the '13 ST, first release, wonderful car but genetically flawed! Front wheel drive, wheel hop (even after the recall to change motor mount to the CMAX motor mounts). Reduced but not solved.
The RS is so much better than the ST except for one thing. the 2.0L block is much stronger than the 2.3L in the RS. There is an inherited weakness between 2 & 3 cylinder cylinder
You can push 2.0L with mods to a higher HP/torque level than the 2.3L RS unless special mods are made to strengthen the weakness between 2 and 3. .
I also had a 13 Focus ST. And the marshmallow transmission mount made the engine sound like it was banging off the firewall every hard upshift. And the wheel hop was atrocious. Thought it was going to shake the dash to death at times.
 

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My ECU was reset after the HG, more recently I spoke with the Ford tech at my dealership, I asked him about whether or not they water down the tune after the HG job. He said they do re-set and re-flash the tune after the HG job but he didn't think it was to tune it down, it was to "Adjust to the new HG".. He said that if anything the performance would be improved. But in reality, I don't think he would know whether he was loading an updated RS tune or the tune off of a Mini cooper, he just knows how to load the tunes that are handed down from Ford above.

...This'll probably sound dumb but I can't help wonder.. I know that if you change out pretty much anything on newer cars the ECU has to be re-flashed. I learned this when I changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor on my 09 Accord and couldn't figure out why it was running worse than before I changed it, I had to have it towed to a shop for an ecu Re-flash. I learned that even if you change out a window actuator on a New vehicle, the ecu has to be re-flashed.. Anyway, after reading a little about LSPI (low Speed Pre-Ignition), one of the minor effects can cause the ECU to throw back the timing, my question is, Would the ecu adjustment to the timing be subtle or would it be immediately apparent? Would the ecu re-adjust timing after a period of no re-occurrence and if not, Could a re-flash of the ECU correct the timing or would it have to be corrected manually?
You are using the term re-flash incorrectly.

resetting the pcm wipes it’s learned values but does not touch the engine calibration.

flashing it means you are writing a whole new calibration to the car and isnot something Ford can do as it will invalidate any EPA certifications if they do much as touch spark & fuel
 
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