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Discussion Starter #1
I've been hesitant to make one of these considering the number of them already on the forum, but I have evidence to back it up. Everyone seems to think that the RS is fast and it just feels so planted that you can't "sense" the power. I have always thought that my RS felt slow. I read all of those comments in the past and thought maybe these people were right.

My car is a 2017 RS1, bone stock except for an AEM dry flow filter and a tune for 93 octane. Initially I was running one of the Cobb OTS tunes on the car and took it to a local 1/8th mile track. Needless to say, I was let down. This is not my first fast car by a very long shot. I am also not new to drag racing. The car ran a 9.3 ET in the 1/8th on a cool night in the 60's. I backed up this time a few times and never got any better. I was told by several people that it was the OTS tune and I should get a pro to tune it for me. I originally bought the Cobb AP from Tune+ who offers a free tune with purchase, so I hit up Adam. I sent him my logs and he sent me a tune back. I put the tune on the car and at first, it felt a bit better, but the car seems to have rendered itself back to low power. Yesterday, I raced a friend's completely stock Focus ST from a roll and we stayed neck and neck. Keep in mind, my car has a tune and is suppose to be making almost 100 more horsepower from the factory. I have no check engine lights and no other indications of a problem outside of it feeling like it's putting about 200 whp to the pavement. I talked to my local Ford dealer and they were absolutely no help at all. I have replaced the plugs with one step colder, replaced the accelerator pedal, and replaced the FPR hoping to find the issue by throwing parts at it. Also, the head and head gasket were replaced under warranty by Ford. Does anyone else have numbers to backup how slow their car is? Has anyone found a fix? I'm very frustrated with this car.

 

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Curious what info pops up in this thread...my car also feels slow to me. In fact, I have a 25 year old car that weighs more with less horsepower but feels much faster... love the RS but don't know what to make of this. I saw some comments about the purge valve being defective without throwing any codes...What is the "FPR"?
 

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Something does seem off. Completely stock I ran [email protected] in the 1/8th with a 1.95 60ft. DA 762 ft at 68 F.

After the W400 kit from Tune+, I ran [email protected] with a 1.86 60ft. Weather helped with a DA -304 ft at 54 F.
 

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Will be watching this thread. My 2016 feels fast sometimes. Especially first 5-10 minutes after it's started. I don't mean cold, I always let the oil warm up. Take a trip somewhere it gets warmed up, get back in to go home and the car is a beast for the first part of the trip back. But after some time driving the power diminishes greatly. I don't think it would heatsoak that quickly.

I think it's related to closed loop vs open loop. The car runs in one of those states for a programmed period of time after starting I think like as a default to get things up to temp. Then starts gathering sensor data (o2?) and running off that. Bad cat? o2 or other sensor? Not sure but my next step is to get back into the dealer to get the common small oil leaks fixed.

Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk
 

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I’ll certainly be reading in on this thread since I’m in the market for an RS or ST. I enjoy learning from guys on here that actually own an RS & might sway me enough to save 13k & just buy an ST.


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I don't drag, but the few times I did track or time it I didn't notice anything like you're describing. I agree with the dyno rec, there's just so many nannies/variables with this car.

The car ran a 9.3 ET in the 1/8th on a cool night in the 60's.
Also this sentence gave me chuckles.
 

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I head to AntSpec for a dyno ProTune on Tuesday, I’ll give you guys some hard numbers from before and after!!

I’m CA-legal besides the AP so I’ve only got the Roush intake and a Velossa Tech big mouth. I don’t expect that to do or mean too much; and my goal is a safe and reliable power boost.
 

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What's your OAR? Maybe bad fuel could be contributing to the issue. +1 for talk with your tuner and/or throw your car on the dyno. When doing a pull, what is your AP showing for calculated Torque and HP numbers? I know they're not accurate but they're something.
 

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The RS stands for Rally Sport it’s not a drag racer it loves the turns don’t quite understand modding your car for the 1/4 mile just saying!
 

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Do a log in 3rd gear, floored from just over 2k rpm up until red line. Look at the log in excel and figure out what your 30 to 80mph time is. If you do it, ill compare it to mine.
 

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My 2016 feels quick as ever, driving it at 10/10ths is plenty exciting and has me wanting more tire for more confidence. Heat soak is real and occurs quickly. If your logs or dyno don't show holes, improve your heat management system.
 

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Do a log in 3rd gear, floored from just over 2k rpm up until red line. Look at the log in excel and figure out what your 30 to 80mph time is. If you do it, ill compare it to mine.
I’ll add a data point to that. Tuned/bolt ons, WOT in 3rd gear, 22psi. These are my old datalogs when getting revisions with stratified so it’s not the final tune, but will give you a rough idea

Run 1: 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 7.2 seconds
Run 2: 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 6.9 seconds
Run 3: 2700 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 6.4 seconds
Run 4: 2600 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 6.5 seconds
Run 5: 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 6.5 seconds
Run 6: 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 7.0 seconds

take the average over 6 runs and youre looking at ~6.75 seconds 2500-6500 in 3rd

anyone can review my logs here datazap.me | 320icar
 

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Mild tune and bolt-ons. Waiting to finish the WMI tune. OP, should definitely get an aftermarket FMIC (unless I missed that you already did in your post 😬😀). Or if you want to skip the FMIC, install a WMI and keep everything cool and clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have not been to the dyno yet, but may do that soon. I'm busy working on another car that is going to the dyno in a couple of weeks. I may setup an appointment at that time. When I had Adam setup my free tune, he didn't mention anything looking off, but I also didn't specifically ask. On Adam's recommendation, I'm using BP fuel because I was using Shell before and he said to stay away from it because of an additive that causes issues with DI vehicles apparently. My OAR is -1 across the board and torque (I'm assuming LTT Torque Final is the correct number) peak is at 411.9, which seems quite high, but the peak for most of the run was a peak of 380 ft-lb. On my log posted above, it took 7.36 seconds to go from 30 to 80 mph in 3rd gear. I would love to see what you guys are getting on your logs. To get from 2356 rpm to 6463 took 8.67 seconds in 3rd at full throttle. I have an aftermarket FMIC, DP, and WGA waiting to go on, but I didn't want to mess with the warranty while it still feels like something is not working correctly. As soon as I feel like it's making what it should be and I won't need my warranty, I'll start throwing the aftermarket parts at it.

I really appreciate all the help guys, except Pecoskid which was absolutely no help at all. Everyone with a functioning brain knows that the RS is not a drag car, but the drag strip is a legitimate way to test a car's performance with hard numbers, not unlike a dyno. That's why it's called Test & Tune. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I’ll add a data point to that. Tuned/bolt ons, WOT in 3rd gear, 22psi. These are my old datalogs when getting revisions with stratified so it’s not the final tune, but will give you a rough idea

Run 1: 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 7.2 seconds
Run 2: 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 6.9 seconds
Run 3: 2700 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 6.4 seconds
Run 4: 2600 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 6.5 seconds
Run 5: 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 6.5 seconds
Run 6: 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm, elapsed time 7.0 seconds

take the average over 6 runs and youre looking at ~6.75 seconds 2500-6500 in 3rd

anyone can review my logs here datazap.me | 320icar

It appears that mine takes a little over 8 seconds for 2500 to 6500. Something is definitely off on my car. That's with the OTS Stage 1 tune, which I realize is not great, but 2 seconds across a few thousand rpm's is a HUGE amount. Thanks guys!
 

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It appears that mine takes a little over 8 seconds for 2500 to 6500. Something is definitely off on my car. That's with the OTS Stage 1 tune, which I realize is not great, but 2 seconds across a few thousand rpm's is a HUGE amount. Thanks guys!
Based on your statements I'm not even sure you've gone through the proper etune process. Did you log after he sent you the baseline and then send him logs back? There's usually a couple revisions required to lock it down. Baseline tunes are typically the most conservative.
 

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Based on your statements I'm not even sure you've gone through the proper etune process. Did you log after he sent you the baseline and then send him logs back? There's usually a couple revisions required to lock it down. Baseline tunes are typically the most conservative.
I did log after he sent me the tune and sent it back to him, but he said everything looked good and nothing needed to be changed.
 

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Firstly, it’s important to accept that these cars are not as relatively fast as the spec sheets make it sound (edit: in stock or mostly stock form!). They’re heavy, and the power output is inconsistent due in part to the complex, variable-sensitive ECU functioning. In other words, don’t let your expectations get too high. Take it for what it is.

That out of the way, you mention OTS Cobb stage 1 is what you achieved that ‘over 8 second’ 3rd gear pull with. When you purchased from tuneplus, did you purchase the Cobb AP and that alone? Or did you purchase either 1) a separate e-tune (extra $200 on top of AP) or 2) an unlimited e-tune option ($350 on top of AP)?
 
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