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Discussion Starter #1
I doubt anyone has changed plugs yet, but with how well my ST responded to these, I'm going to try them on the RS. Plus, priced at $17.76, it'd be un-American not to.

I'll post pics of the stock plugs (which I'm sure are doodoo) and what the factory gaps are.

I'll be going with 0.028 at first. I might close up to a 0.026 depending on what my AP says.

Feel free to chime in if you're already made the switch.

Pics and more information to come.
 

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Could you post data logs as well? Try datazap.me if you haven't already.

I'm really curious to see what the RS is doing under stock and tuned conditions. Also, charge air temps!

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Could you post data logs as well? Try datazap.me if you haven't already.

I'm really curious to see what the RS is doing under stock and tuned conditions. Also, charge air temps!

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Yup, I'll pull some logs. I expect to see a difference in the tip-in knock levels. My accessport will be here today, so I'll get some good 1300 mile logs.
 

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I already sold a ton of these through my website for the Focus RS, and about 100 plugs a week for the Ecoboost Mustang haha. They work really well but you have to be VERY carful when gapping them. I charge a little more because of shipping and because I pre-gap them all with a $180.00 tool I purchased.

Here is a write-up I did on the Ecoboost Mustang forums that explain why you have to be careful when gapping.

They can be purchased here ready to go with free shipping. Again, the additional cost to what you see online is because they are pre-gapped and the conductors are tightened with soft jaws. These cars are extremely sensitive to ignition/spark plugs, so it is a great upgrade.

Actually the damage is actually from gapping, most customer knock the iridium welded tip off because it is extremely brittle and soft. If you knock it off you have a dead plug. If you bend it, you have a dead plug. If you make the gap too tight and you have to open it back up you mar the ground electrode. Which won't cause a dead plug but will cause inconsistent spark as it will possibly be igniting off the side of the ground electrode. When you opened it back up to re-gap you marred the metal and removed some of the plating. The channel on the bottom side of the ground electrode is raw - no plating, so when you create more raw spots on the ground electrode you are making it hard for the plug to generate a straight spark between the gap. If the plug starts igniting anywhere BUT the channel in the ground electrode you get weak spark and can cause spark blowout.

People don't understand the importance of having a properly gapped quality plug in these cars. Not to long ago I was doing live remote dyno tuning for a shop in Ohio. The power numbers were off, but the car was running smooth and pulling fine. I asked what plugs were in it and he said stock. He grabbed a set of plugs off the shelf, gapped them with his gapping tool, and installed. The car went from 294whp to 323whp without even changing the tune. Boost was actually lower, and timing/fuel was the same.

So, you can absolutely gap your own plugs and I tell people that all the time. However if you don't want to risk it you can pay me for my time, and get a plug that is guaranteed to perform as it should. The price would be a little cheaper if I wasn't shipping 120 plugs a week. Clearly there are people that want to make a small investment to better the health of their vehicle and not have to worry about having to possibly buy twice.



 

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@TUNE+

would you recommend these for cars still running stock calibration as well?
on his website he says yes. but imo they are only worth putting in if you have a tune. the idea of colder plugs is to be able to run higher engine pressures (boost) than factory rated that is when you see benefit. running them with no tune or mods you will not notice any difference, and may even notice some sluggishness with throttle response
 

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@TUNE+

would you recommend these for cars still running stock calibration as well?
I would say yes. Anything over 20 pounds of boost probably needs step colder plugs. Stock is 23psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just the plug alone will allow for a fuller burn and overall better performance.

There's a few good threads that show the difference in carbon building up on the tailpipe of the Focus ST's.

The nasty DI idle in the stock ST cleaned up alot with the plugs too. They're worth the upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I already sold a ton of these through my website for the Focus RS, and about 100 plugs a week for the Ecoboost Mustang haha. They work really well but you have to be VERY carful when gapping them. I charge a little more because of shipping and because I pre-gap them all with a $180.00 tool I purchased.
I'm working on getting our gapping tools from the QA department to make sure the gaps are accurate and done properly.

Unfortunately we didn't have any ITV22s here in Southfield, so I had to send an order in for them. They should be here by week's end.
 

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In my experience from the ST, if you're using the car as a daily driven commuter (me),and not running at high engine speeds and temps consistently then they aren't needed. The OEM plugs will be fine when properly gapped, even on a tune. However, this is not the ST. So I'm going to run data logs for two 200 mile jaunts with both plugs installed and see if there is a wide enough variance for me and my commuting.

I honestly shy away from generalizations like, "colder heat range plugs are better" because they really aren't for everyone across all types of mods, tunes, driving habits, etc.
 

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Good luck with this.
Curious to see your results.
:)
 

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I asked Mountune this specific question. Randy stated that he generally does not use the colder plug until adding 50hp. Since I'm getting their tune, that's the advice I will be sticking to.
 

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DENSO ITV22 Spark Plugs

I asked Mountune this specific question. Randy stated that he generally does not use the colder plug until adding 50hp. Since I'm getting their tune, that's the advice I will be sticking to.
yeah gave me the same answer. I do plan on data logging and I do have all necessary supporting mods they agreed to make my tune as aggressive as possible within a safe range so I ordered the step colder densos with the ap to be prepared
 

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I installed these yesterday actually. No tune or AP yet, but the idle definitely smoothed out for me. I have them gapped at .26
 
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