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ADF Customs Undertray Install

37K views 50 replies 31 participants last post by  BlueHenRS 
#1 · (Edited)
Going to do my best at this. Don't expect @Hank level quality. His are spectacular. Sorry for the sideways photos too. I still don't have a clue on fixing those. @Sleeper, hope you like the thread. I definitely think this is what you are looking for. Year-round.

So, this is kind of an install and review all in one. I have been trying to find an undertray that is beautifully made, has a superior mounting system, and is highly functional in any weather or usage. I have Dorian's latest tray, including the access doors. And while it is nice, it is super heavy (great for real off road rally but overkill for me), still uses OEM plastic crappy red mounting points, and is quite rough around the edges in terms of polish/finish.

Well, I came across ADF Customs on Facebook, they had trays for the ST that looked incredible, and sure enough, the RS was in production. Did some corresponding with them re things I liked and disliked on the Dorian's tray and the Skid Plate Guy tray. They then completed their design and I bought one of the first ones. Finally got a chance to install and in summary: Amazing.

First, pre-install walk-around the tray and the components:

Incredible fit and finish, multiple colors available, strong yet lightweight design, fully functional superbly crafted ducting to match OEM tray. No oil change access door, although ADF said they would consider adding it if there was demand. But it is so beautifully mounted and removable, I don't care (see below).

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The hardware -- Where it gets even better. Rather than rely on the crappy red plastic inserts and screws to secure the tray. The ADF tray has a system of RivNuts and standoffs that are just genius. Perfect clearance for components, even larger aftermarket pipes, etc. (I know some folks had issues with Dorian's tray rubbing on AC compressor. There was also an issue of interference with the RMM bolt and some folks cut out a relief hole). The standoffs are super beefy, incredibly secure, and as a result, enable the ADF tray to be fastened with a conventional 7/16" socket/power ratchet on the nut/bolt. I feels is incredibly secure and strong unlike the OEM tray/mounting system.

All the hardware bits, and ADF even throws in a couple of extra RivNuts in case you F-Up. LIKE I DID on my first one. Cranked it too hard and stripped it (Super easy to remove if you do BTW, just use a Dremel on to remove enough flange and it pops right out, easy) No problem re-installed one of the extras.

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The tools and install:

Basic tools all around, wrenches, chingadera, etc., with one exception that I highly recommend (it is not necessary and you can find loads of YouTube video showing DIY alternatives). A rivnut setting tool. I bought this one of Amazon:

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Astra Tools 1442. Can do far more than this install but it made this one really easy. Great YouTube video on this exact tool at: You Need This Tool Fool - Episode 55 -

And the setter you need is 1/4 20. Included in the Astra kit.

Onto the install - The instructions are super clear, super easy to follow. I did it on RaceRamps, lift would be easier but not needed.

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Basically, use your all powerful jedi master chingadera to pop out the red plastic crap mounts in the spots indicated. Put rivnuts in their place. Put stand-offs in where indicated, tighten with 1/2" wrench (used red threadlocker on them per instructions). Then, position and bolt on your undertray (use one bonded washer, a lock washer and a 7/16" nut). Two of the standoffs go on without rivnuts. They use pre-existing holes near wheel fender liners, also super easy to get to and install. I think I may experiment with nylock washer (so I have less stuff to lose on the ground when removing/installing) versus the bonded washer and lock washer and conventional nut. BUT, it works and works well.

Gotta continue this in second post. Too many attachments. Coming up shortly.
 
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#2 ·
Part II

My borked first attempt at rivnut install. That Astra tool has serious pulling power, don't overdo it.

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And then things properly installed. Lighting is not great. Sorry.

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This is what it looks like mid rivnut install. Pull down on the arms and it crushes it into place. The video I mentioned above makes it clear exactly how it works.

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Now to put on lock tight and snug the standoffs into place.

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And bolted into place.

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#5 ·
It sits maybe a 1/2 inch lower than OEM because of the standoffs, but it is hard to tell because the OEM is molded and changes depth depending what part of the tray you are looking at. Nothing that sticks out as noticeable as far as I can tell. But it is well designed to clear everything underneath the car properly. You can see from my photos what it lines up with under the car, and compare to your existing tray. But it clears the little 1.5" high tab that sticks down from the front hard plastic undertray, where you would be most likely to have a clearance issue on driveways/curb cuts, so I expect zero issues.
 
#7 ·
Was wanting to get one, wondering how the cooling is vs stock and how heavy it is, mainly because I was planning on switching back to oem for the summer, but because the rivet nuts, it can't be

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#8 · (Edited)
It weighs about 13 lbs.

You could actually switch back and forth potentially. The rivnuts are all in oem spots and are 1/4-20 threads. You could remove standoffs (easy with 1/2" wrench) and use a conventional washer and bolt with the OEM tray where the rivnuts are located. I actually wish this is how they did the whole OEM tray to begin with. So much more secure.

On the cooling front, not sure how easy it would be to benchmark it. But it has 1 for 1 matching NACA type ducts to the OEM tray. And they are beautifully made so I doubt you lose any cooing capability with this tray.
 
#10 ·
I will do a weight comparison since I have both. Dorian's tray has what looks like twice the gauge thickness of the metal. I might be over-estimating the weight on the ADF.
 
#12 ·
It is expensive depending on your needs. It's a whole kit with tips for various size nuts, a big selection of nuts, etc. It's about 70 bucks on Amazon.

It is a great tool and I know I will use it for other things. BUT it definitely is not necessary.

There are a ton of DIY videos of how to make your own tool with a threaded bolt/washers and nuts.

Those solutions are a little less elegant and slower to use, but theywork. Hell they might even be easier unless you can lift your car up high enough given the way the Astro tool's arms have to move to set the nut.
 
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#15 ·
There is another angle to consider in addition to weight and that is mounting. I really liked the rivnut mounting system that ADF uses. It is super solid. Those red plastic bits on the OEM are just garbage. The rivnut solution does make it trickier to put stock tray back on because of the standoffs. But I don't mind. I would only put the stock tray back on if I was maximizing every ounce for track/autoX. But even then, remove the standoffs with a simple wrench and then use a standard thread bolt to put the OEM tray back on. Still better than the red plastic garbage.
 
#19 ·
Awesome post GoodbyGolfR (OP). Helped with my install. And thanks to the ADF guys. Kept me informed throughout the process and shipped when the promised. Something I'm finding more and more of an issue of late. So great to receive awesome customer service from these guys. Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Automotive exterior
 
#21 ·
It sits as far as stock


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#24 ·
Has anyone installed this without using the rivet nut hardware? I'm not mechanically inclined and even if it is easy enough to figure out the idea of doing something irreversible makes me cringe. I prefer to use the fabric in the summer.

Does anyone have experience trying this with the stock hardware?
 
#26 ·
Because of the weight of the plate, I wouldn't recommend it, it would end up stripping and pulling out the stock fasteners

You can use the new hardware with the fabric though


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#25 ·
It's totally reversible. One could simply pry out the nut rivets and put the plastic pieces back in that the stock torx bolts require.

Using the nut tool doesn't require much skill at all, just a little patience. Check the video below on how to use it. The tool is just $20 at Harbor Freight.

I have no experience on any other skid plates than the ADF, but there is no way one should use anything but the hardware they supply for the install.

 
#28 · (Edited)
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Thought I'd share this for anyone running across this thread doing research on this upgrade.

So on their product page, like many product pages, they leave themselves some wiggle room for responsibility of fitment issues:

Works with many aftermarket upgrades. Will fit many larger charge pipes. (Will NOT work with Fumoto oil valve, without modification)
Which is fine, I understand that there is no way to design something with everyone else's stuff in mind, my issue is that I keep running into situations where my other items, specifically Mishimoto products, don't fall into the "most".

Yesterday was the first time I've gone to change the oil since I put the ADF tray on, here was what I noticed right away


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Visible wear on one of the ADF ducts . (#EDIT: upon further review this is wear from the standoff that holds the bottom of the IC pipe in place, not the pipe itself)


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Since I've removed my Boomba BOV I was noticing a very faintly audible boost leak, I'd guess now this was the culprit of that noise

I laid down a nice layer of JB Weld on the IC pipe to seal it back up and protect it (looks like it'll work out very nicely actually!) and when I went to put the tray back on the car I noticed that where I thought it was wearing was not where it was touching the piping, so reinspecting, here on the edge is where it was touching/rubbing/wearing


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That was much easier to fix for good with a little time with the Dremel and a bit of Rustoleum paint, all fixed. Not super crazy about the JB Weld in play, but sometimes you just do what you gotta do to get something working.


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Overall not a huge deal, but just be aware that these pieces always don't together right out of the box !


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#29 ·
.

Thought I'd share this for anyone running across this thread doing research on this upgrade.

I understand that there is no way to design something with everyone else's stuff in mind, my issue is that I keep running into situations where my other items, specifically Mishimoto products, don't fall into the "most".

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So I take it you're using aftermarket IC pipes? Is this correct? Can you please confirm?

Thanks!
 
#36 ·
Bought this set from Harbor Freight. It worked, but is a pretty big POS. I know, it is to be expected. Mine was slightly different in appearance and was not branded Pittsburgh. don't know if it would make a difference, but ordering on line might get you a better tool than going into the store.

That said, my skid plate is installed. This is a pretty fantastic piece. It is well made and really is not that bad to install. I went shade tree mechanic and installed this on ramps in my driveway, in January, in Michigan and it, along with an oil change, took about three hours.

JR at ADF was very helpful.
 
#39 ·
Their website lists the Fumoto valves and Mishimoto pipes clear now, I'm assuming the revision is done @ anyone that's bought one recently? And were there any further fitment issues? In what is probably the most California accident on this board, I ran over a surfboard that I couldn't avoid on the highway and it tore apart my undertray. ¯\(ツ)
 
#42 ·
Thread bump-
After stripping the threads out of one aluminum standoff provided with the kit, I decided to upgrade to all stainless steel hardware. The part on the bottom is from ADF Customs; consisting of a stainless steel piece of 1/4-20 all-thread and an aluminum standoff body. I over-torqued the little guy and pulled the threads out of the soft aluminum. The new parts at the top of the photo are from Mouser Electronics; machined from a single piece of stainless steel.

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