Ford Focus RS Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After much internal debate, I decided to go all in on trying to defeat the (in my eyes) troublesome, and interfering brake systems. Too many times I felt the brakes were doing things I didn't request - erratic stopping power when it assumed I was panicking, ABS intervention and the hard pedal on snow and ice, and the irritating need to hold the traction control button for 5 seconds every time I got in.

Turns out, it was surprisingly easy to do, and in 2 months of daily use I have not seen any negative effects. No warning lights, no unusual behavior.

What you need:
-ABS pump unit. I got mine for about $300 shipped from a wrecker.
-FORscan and a compatible adapter. I used the OBD link MX+. Or, you can go to a Ford dealer and have them initialize the unit there.
-A smaller battery, or a more creative mounting solution than I used.

First thing, take out the battery, and battery box. This will give you access to the current ABS unit.

20200208_142456.jpg

Disconnect the pump, and decide how you'd like to mount the new pump. I used the bracket that came with it, and modified it to use some of the bolt holes from the battery box.

339727


Because I want this to be pretty permanent, I filled the new pump with a little brake fluid to lubricate it, and then capped off the ports. This may or may not be neccessary if you only intend to use it once in a while.

339730


Given the very limited space back here, I found this to be the best position for it. If you don't want to do the next step, you might be able to find a different way to mount it. I wanted things to look stock, so.... cut out a section in the battery box.

339728


Just take out a corner of it, big enough to clear the new pump.

339729


Now obviously the huge stock battery won't fit in there anymore. I used a Subaru battery, as I have many lying around, but there are certainly smaller ones you could use.

Next, connect power and turn the car on. At this time, you'll be seeing all kinds of warning lights, AWD off etc, this is what stopped me on my first attempt at this. I didn't realize it needed to be programmed. Connect to Forscan to calibrate and initialize the new pump. I believe any Ford dealership should be able to perform this task as well, just tell them you replaced your pump and it needs to be initialized.

And that's pretty much it! All brake functions that were controlled by the system now think they are functioning, but so course none are. Awd and all modes work, but no ABS intervention, no panic braking, and an unexpected bonus - one touch traction control off.

And the best thing? You can switch between your dummy pump, and real pump anytime without reprogramming them. No ABS for the winter, and full brake vectoring for the summer. If you don't want to spend money on a new pump, or programming, you could also just remove the brake lines from your existing pump and plumb them externally. This would be more suited to a dedicated rally or track car though.

Now obviously this mod is not for everyone, and I know there will be some who don't understand why anyone would do this. But for those who do appreciate a car that doesn't talk back to you, I hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,241 Posts
So you wired up a second pump to trick the ABS into thinking that everything was still hooked up? Nice! Any issues with panic stops or the "computer" not liking when a wheel was locking up when it wasn't supposed to?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
So you wired up a second pump to trick the ABS into thinking that everything was still hooked up? Nice! Any issues with panic stops or the "computer" not liking when a wheel was locking up when it wasn't supposed to?
Nope, none at all. It seems the system has no feedback system built in. I was concerned it may require some kind of line pressure to prove the system had brake pressure, but my first tests were done without any fluid or capping on the pump and everything worked fine. You can hear the dummy pump buzzing away during lockup, it thinks it's done its job, and all is well.

I am using the extended version of Forscan, which lets you read and write to the subsystems. There were options in the Config and Programming, and Service Procedures to initialize, and then calibrate the pump. You can also read the ABS codes which is how I figured out I needed to calibrate it. This pump was from a crashed RS, so maybe it would be different if it were actually new?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
605 Posts
So you wired up a second pump to trick the ABS into thinking that everything was still hooked up? Nice! Any issues with panic stops or the "computer" not liking when a wheel was locking up when it wasn't supposed to?
You do lose the brake biasing controlled but the ABS pump, so you’re at the fall back defaults which are a bit rear biased, but it works ok. The bigger impact To overall vehicle dynamics is that you lose the brake based torque vectoring, but depending on what you‘re doing this may not be a big deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
You do lose the brake biasing controlled but the ABS pump, so you’re at the fall back defaults which are a bit rear biased, but it works ok. The bigger impact To overall vehicle dynamics is that you lose the brake based torque vectoring, but depending on what you‘re doing this may not be a big deal.
Yes, exactly.

Fortunately I like the more rear biased brakes, especially in the winter and I find it feels more natural without the vectoring, though it can get a little more squirmy in drift mode.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top