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Discussion Starter #1
Since I pulled the engine and put engine in the ac no longer works. when I pulled it out I evacuated the system since I pulled engine from the front.


After it was all back together, about 2 weeks later I went to fill the system up. would not get cold.

compressor comes on.

tube by expansion valve not cold.

blew air through condensor..... not sure if that rules out blockage.

removed expansion valve... they just blew through it and said it's fine. I doubt that rules it out lol.

with car running I had 37 psi / 170 psi) temp is 87f engine was working temps.

focus rs manual shows this. seems too high. all youtube has like 35 psi.

338560


Help lol going to get hot here soon. no ecu codes logged
 

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Did you unplug the compressor while it was being run without refrigerant? I don’t know if that would’ve saved it but if it was plugged in the compressor clutch was probably was turning on and damaged the compressor or clutch. I don’t have experience troubleshooting anything but the electric clutch and compressor on an A/C system so I’m not much help.

Too late now, but you didn’t need to evacuate the A/C system to pull the motor out the front. You just have to move everything around a bit. I’ve done it and it saved me the headache of dealing with the A/C system.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I'm sure someone will have a clue. I didnt run it without refrigerant. It also would not have run without as a failsafe.
 

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Pretty sure there is a pressure switch in the system that will not allow the clutch on the compressor to engage if there is no refrigerant in the system to pressurise it.
 

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Might be low on coolant due to a small leak or the compressor might be damaged.
 

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Check the "Refrigerant System Tests 2.3L EcoBoost (257kW/350PS) MI4" section, there are quite a few troubleshooting steps there.
 

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Have you checked for DTCs with Forscan? My A/C would not work properly and cool (just hot & humid air) without a "valid" temperature reading from the mirror thermocouple (or any resistor); check all your wiring and connectors for damaged pins....that solved my issues. If all is mechanically sound, then check the electronics involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have you checked for DTCs with Forscan? My A/C would not work properly and cool (just hot & humid air) without a "valid" temperature reading from the mirror thermocouple (or any resistor); check all your wiring and connectors for damaged pins....that solved my issues. If all is mechanically sound, then check the electronics involved.
on the cobb ap when i look for codes. no codes. would that do it or needs another scan tool?

i have has issues in the past with temp reading -40c.... but now it read correct on the dash.

i have however random once port failing to communicate witt ecu
 

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on the cobb ap when i look for codes. no codes. would that do it or needs another scan tool?

i have has issues in the past with temp reading -40c.... but now it read correct on the dash.

i have however random once port failing to communicate witt ecu
Check wiring/electronics for sure then if you saw -40c (that's what mine did when it would only blow hot/humid and it would show the correct temp sometimes, yet still not cool correctly) 2.472 ohm resistance = 75*F

I would assume the AP sees all of the codes (but it could just see some), it would be worth checking with forscan JIC, it won't hurt. There is also a A/C service or test function there I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Check wiring/electronics for sure then if you saw -40c (that's what mine did when it would only blow hot/humid and it would show the correct temp sometimes, yet still not cool correctly) 2.472 ohm resistance = 75*F

I would assume the AP sees all of the codes (but it could just see some), it would be worth checking with forscan JIC, it won't hurt. There is also a A/C service or test function there I believe.
did you remove the cover on back of the mirror?
 

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did you remove the cover on back of the mirror?
I access it behind the passenger tweeter (it's easy just pull it straight off), then just de-pin THE TWO wires related to the thermistor and inset the resistor legs directly into the those terminals, a bit of electrical tape and you are good. The electronics manual has all the correct resistances and voltage for each circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So since that was fine i removed dryer and the txv. waiting on new ones to arrive this coming week.

Some people say the dryer can clog up. maybe the weight of the bag affects things. it sits over the flow

it absorbs so.much humidity that its no longer effective at that.

must be txv. fingers crossed.

338673




338674
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I replaced expansion valve and dryer. recharged after a 2 hour vaccum run. low side goes to 35 psi and high side never moves from 120psi. static and running 110 - 120psi. low side goes up when I shut down and down to 30 35 when I start engine and ac.

Can a sensor be bad and not throw a code?

ac compressor gone bad?. it was fine before engine was pulled. 😪
 

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I replaced expansion valve and dryer. recharged after a 2 hour vaccum run. low side goes to 35 psi and high side never moves from 120psi. static and running 110 - 120psi. low side goes up when I shut down and down to 30 35 when I start engine and ac.

Can a sensor be bad and not throw a code?

ac compressor gone bad?. it was fine before engine was pulled. 😪
I cant say I know a huge amount about car a/c (commercial jets yes) but it seems to me from a troubleshooting angle you need to go back to basic stuff and retrace what you have disturbed during the engine change.

Ciao
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well all I did was empty and move it out of the way and onto.new engine. I wonder if I have orifice tube as well as the txv ?

autozone seem to.think.so lol

338888
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I cant say I know a huge amount about car a/c (commercial jets yes) but it seems to me from a troubleshooting angle you need to go back to basic stuff and retrace what you have disturbed during the engine change.

Ciao

Started getting hot so i resumed troubleshooting and you are right my friend.

100% was an issue putting it back together and had left this **** in the line. I remember putting tape on the line to prevent anything getting in but im guessing my buddy used this before i taped. jeez its a perfect fit too lol

anyway, lots of money and time wasted and i learned enough about ac reading as much as i could online trying to troubleshoot the symptoms that no one has obviously.









339478
 
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