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The modern turbocharger is an amazing piece of technology! It can turn tiny four cylinder engines into V8 killers and with the right application, can turn any car into an all-out monster. But you have to pay to play and turbochargers are not cheap. So how can you protect your investment? How can you make sure your turbo will last and continue to make power and smiles? (Read more...)


 

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Turbo timers - dont actually have to install one, but let your car idle for 30 seconds before you shut it down after hard use.
 

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Turbo timers - dont actually have to install one, but let your car idle for 30 seconds before you shut it down after hard use.
The Fiat 500 Abarth comes with an auxiliary water pump that supplies just the turbo. It continues circulating coolant for something like 45 seconds after the car is turned off. I still think that turbo timers are a big waste of money to the point that I have turned down cars that have had them installed. They tend to be accompanied by hot air intakes, atmospheric dump tubes, more camber than your body has room for, and park bench wings. My short driveway is plenty of time for the turbo to cool.
 

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^^^True. Also, Turbine's cool down much quicker than most people assume. Having an EGT gauge at the turbine inlet proves this. If you were ripping down the Interstate, by the time you take an off-ramp, turn onto the surface street, pull into a parking lot and shut it down, the turbine is already cool enough to key-off. All the idling in the world won't make the turbo cooler at that point. Turbo timers aren't really relevant for a street-driven car, and only barely relevant for a track car, like if you're a moron and don't do a cool down lap.


Something else that very few aftermarkets but some OEM's are using is thermosyphon cooling, where thermal convection circulates the coolant through the turbo CHRA after engine shut-down. I did this on my turbo Miata and it works perfectly and passively. Also, the Ford Model T used thermosyphon cooling, so it's not a new concept.


Edge Autosport said:
The heat will wear on the turbo and can potentially cause failure.
Ummm, how? You imply that heat will wear a compressor; how would this cause a failure...and of what exactly? Your site reads like it's meant as a 101 for turbo n00bs, no offense if that was the point. Turbo's operate on pressure ratios, so if you meant to say that going outside the rational published efficiency islands of the PR maps then, yea duh, you'll surge or choke the compressor and cause an impeller failure from either aero stalling/buffeting or overspeeding, respectively. That whole paragraph should've been written to emphasize that trying to force the compressor to flow more to make more power will over-rev the turbo and it'll grenade, not a vauge misunderstanding about how the "heat will wear" things. So, your 4 Tips thing read like this: "Oil control, oil control again, something something, and have a BOV". Going deeper on the following would've been more helpful:

*Oil: setup your oil feed and drain correctly, including not pressurizing your PCV, and of course use full-syn with correct viscosities for your engine
*Water: thermosyphon your water feed and drain lines so it naturally cools post-shutdown, or give up and use a turbo timer, or don't be an idiot and shut-down immediately after WOT, pull into a parking lot first.
*Fasteners: Pay attention to thermal expansion coefficients and use rational fasteners so the turbo stays on the manifold. If you need Resbond, you did it wrong.
*Tune it: Keep the compressor out of surge [with a BOV and good boost threshold tuning] and out of choke [with applicable power outputs].



It's also worth mentioning that a modern/current factory turbo car will already have the PCV sorted and like have an integrated catch-can, of varying effectiveness amongst OEM's. For most of us here for the RS, the only things to worry about are changing the oil at a rational interval and not turning the ECU to over-speed the turbo to oblivion. Where the rational flow limits of the OEM turbo are definitely TBD, but with a 2k RPM boost threshold, the flow limit is likely lower than most people want to hear. EFR swaps will likely ensue quickly, and that where paying attention to all the DIY stuff mentioned above matters in having the setup make power reliably.
 

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Ummm, how? You imply that heat will wear a compressor; how would this cause a failure...and of what exactly? Your site reads like it's meant as a 101 for turbo n00bs, no offense if that was the point. Turbo's operate on pressure ratios, so if you meant to say that going outside the rational published efficiency islands of the PR maps then, yea duh, you'll surge or choke the compressor and cause an impeller failure from either aero stalling/buffeting or overspeeding, respectively. That whole paragraph should've been written to emphasize that trying to force the compressor to flow more to make more power will over-rev the turbo and it'll grenade, not a vauge misunderstanding about how the "heat will wear" things. So, your 4 Tips thing read like this: "Oil control, oil control again, something something, and have a BOV". Going deeper on the following would've been more helpful:
Thanks for the feedback! You are 100% right. There is a lot more to turbos than what is in this article. The article is written as more of a 101 because most of the people we talk to on a daily basis are not engineers. We are just touching on basic concepts to help the average modifier understand a little more.
 

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Thanks for the clarification. :) We all have to start in the beginning, and it can be tough to see that on opposite sides of the monitor.

If I may, Garrett's website also has a nice Turbo Tech section that's also great information.

Peace. I look forward to seeing what you guys come up with for the RS.
 

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Off throttle compressor surge on in throttle compressor surge are completely different things. You do sell blow off valves so not surprised you mention it to "save" the turbo. ;)
 
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