Ford Focus RS Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Much thanks to DocWalt and KingZee to the work they did, which really honestly led to this fix. They identified the source of the issue, and developed their own fix, which led me to make an observation about figuring out where the source was. However, I do not feel comfortable with bending metal on my car, and rather have Ford address the issue officially, so needed to come up with something as a temporary fix.

What I noticed was that I could make the noise stop by pressing my fingers in between inner door seal and the door and applying a little pressure towards the center of the car, like here:

wmHkLLO.jpg

I was thinking, what could I put here to apply pressure full time without damaging anything, because I loved that I could make the noise stop, but I didn't like driving with my arm/elbow up with my fingers being compressed slightly.

So, after a couple tries, I came up with this ridiculously easy, 2 item/1 tool fix that is 100% reverse-able, and can be done by anyone.

Here are the supplies you will need:
jodckUF.jpg

With your door closed, cut off two squares of maskers tape, and mark from the bottom of the door sill, to right before where the door frame starts to curve. The top and bottom edges of the tape mark the total length, and the side should mark where the edge of the door seal is.
ZJ0Auc0.jpg

Open the door, and clean the area to the left of the tape. This will be part plastic, part painted body. I used some light applications of rubbing alcohol.
oh51QC8.jpg

Next, you will want a strip of painters tape that's runs the length of the tape markers. For the love of god, use scissors and take some time to make a decent measurement and cut. Don't just tear it off like a heathen. Run the painters tape along the inside of the markers you applied earlier, starting on the plastic side first and working your way back to the seal. Cut away any excess, if needed. It should reach nearly perfect from markers to the seal on door. I thought I had taken a picture of this step, but apparently not, but it will make sense in the next pic.

Next, cut the same length of the foam bumper. Apply the super thin 3M double sided sticky tape to the bumper as close to the middle as possible. This will give it some structure, will help ensure it sticks to the tape instead of the body. Apply the foam bumper on top of the tape. You should end up with something like this, but much cleaner. I find its easier to leaving the backing on the edge that's going on the tape covered, and then starting the peel of the backing and folding some over so you can grab it and then pulling off the backing while holding it flat to the door, like shown here: http://heeltoeauto.com/gallery/var/resizes/Installs/3M-double-sided-adhesive/IMG_1964.JPG?m=1327333357
bR2Fyth.jpg

Please Note: I deliberately left more tape showing in these pics, so you could see that it was underneath the rubber. My final install was done with the edges just barely showing under the rubber.

Repeat this for every door if you want, or just for the doors you have the rattle on. Mine was more in the front doors, but I did all 4 because this literally takes no time to do.

Here is what it looks with me taking my time to make sure everything is nearly perfect with the doors closed. Total time: 20-25 minutes.

Front doors:
IMG_20161210_161246.jpg
IMG_20161210_161305.jpg

Rear:
IMG_20161210_161345.jpg

Here are my results:
  • A 95-100% reduction of any rattles in the B pillar. Yes, that much. Its pretty much gone except on the roughest of roads. Its a complete change, and mine was like a typewriter in my left ear. I installed this, and then completed a 500 mile round-trip journey on a variety of roads. It got to the point where it was almost surprising to hear the rattle. Its much more of an observation now, than an major annoyance.
  • This uninstalls very easily. Because we used tape, you can start peeling at the edge of the painters tape, and remove everything in a matter of seconds. Additionally, you can get about 1-2 more applications with that piece you just pulled off if you want to adjust it. I removed all 4 in 30 seconds prior to going to the dealership. I did the original install in 5 minutes and in the rain. It's easy. As soon as I uninstalled it, the rattle came back like normal. :p
  • During testing, I tried with more specific spot fixes. Finding the spot, and then putting like a 3" piece where the noise was instead of long piece running the length. I found that getting more area under compression helped a ton (hyuck!).
  • It does no damage to the car. Zero. The foam has a good amount of give. It can be compressed down to like 2mm, and I can fit my fingers inside that space. During testing, I layered up 3 layers while trying the specific spot fix before I switched to the single long piece. It applies some good pressure, but not enough to do any damage to anything. The door shuts fine. it sits on the inner door seal and the outer door seal remains intact. I have washed my car a couple times with the pressure washer/foam cannon. Not one bit of water getting in. The bumper will actually get imprinted with the texture of the inner seal. Its soft, but pushy.
  • Its very low visibility. If you take your time, this is a very low visibility fix, both with the door open and closed. The the door open, it just looks like part of the door, and with the door closed, its right at the edge of the seal and blends in. I had to point it out to a few people who were in the passenger seat who got in and out of the car and didnt notice it. Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture of it with the door closed, and my car is at the dealership at the moment, will update when I get my car back, as I will be re-doing this process again.
Let me know if you have any questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,310 Posts
It's strange that it's in the front for you because I feel like my rattle comes more from the rear door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It's strange that it's in the front for you because I feel like my rattle comes more from the rear door.
I have seen complaints about both front and rear, but feel its more common in the front. I did all four doors (obviously on the side of the rear doors that touches the b pillars), and the silence I was greeted with was like having a brand new car all over again. I may even work out a couple spots the do this on the hatch that need a bit more buffering.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
From the outside? No, not at all. From the inside, it depends on how you did with the tape markers. :) If you you do it right and tight, you will see just the edge of it directly under or just beyond the inner seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Updated the original post with doors closed pics and updated some information (originally said 3" tape, 2" is actually plenty.

As you can see, not very visible. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Updated the original post with doors closed pics and updated some information (originally said 3" tape, 2" is actually plenty.

As you can see, not very visible. :)
Did this fix a couple of days ago to the front driver/passenger door. It seems to have fixed the issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Have people had luck with Ford acknowledging the B Pillar rattle and resolving it? I need to take my car in for 15K soon and want to have them resolve this.

Also have drooping headliner (3M Dual Lock, really?) issue. Is this a known issue by Ford?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Have people had luck with Ford acknowledging the B Pillar rattle and resolving it? I need to take my car in for 15K soon and want to have them resolve this.

Also have drooping headliner (3M Dual Lock, really?) issue. Is this a known issue by Ford?
B Pillar rattle
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=970509&share_tid=6369&url=https://www.focusrs.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6369&share_type=t

Only 650 pages worth of reading material.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
As an update, Ford finally had to re-weld both b-pillars in order to fix my rattle. This did temporarily stop or help diminish the noise, but it is just a bandaid. They also paid to have all the grease removed from my pillars from the previous dealer's bandaid fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
Yeah, I was thinking jamming something in the door ought to fix it. If I stick my fingers into the door frame while driving the rattle goes away, so simply having something between the door and the frame ought to do it. I like that yours looks almost elegant! Well done!
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top