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"I'm getting my head gasket fixed" MEGATHREAD

This is a discussion on "I'm getting my head gasket fixed" MEGATHREAD within the Focus RS Discussions forums, part of the Focus RS Forums category; Originally Posted by DJZ less than 500 miles post recall fix minus the added fuel line and bolts and I heard back from the dealer ...

Poll: Head Gasket Only or HG + Head?

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Thread: "I'm getting my head gasket fixed" MEGATHREAD

  1. #1271
    Supporting Member DJZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJZ View Post
    less than 500 miles post recall fix minus the added fuel line and bolts and I heard back from the dealer today that they have ordered the fuel related parts but they are on back order.

    On the way home from work, the car seemed to be fine until I stopped at the end of the offramp and the idle was very rough and the check engine light started flashing. I pulled over, called my service advisor who told me that the flashing CEL was caused by a rich condition and that I could safely drive the car to the dealer since I was about 5 miles away. The car seemed to run fine once it got over 3,000 RPM, though I did not get in to boost and kept it below 4,000 RPM as I drove to the dealer. No flashing CEL as I was driving but it would come back when I stopped at lights. When I got to the dealer and got out of the car, I heard this:



    That doesn't sound good...
    The first update I got today via text:

    Checking valve clearance. All are in specs. Will do leak down on #2 cyl & see if upper or lower leak. Will let you know as it progresses


    The second update:

    Both Cylinder #2 exhaust valves are not seating. Valves were pre-assembled on the head that was replaced

    They are ordering a new cylinder head and will let me know what the timeframe is when they have it.
    Dank RS likes this.

  2. #1272
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS Crazy View Post
    So whats the deal with ARP headstuds? Why replace with them? Can't seems to find any info on why they are better. Thanks
    There are a number of reasons ARP head studs have advantages over head bolts. Among the most significant is this:

    “During engine assembly or maintenance, a bolt must be installed by torqueing it into place. Due to the head bolt’s design, it has to be rotated into its slot in order to engage the threads and secure it into place. This process creates both twisting force and a vertical clamping force, which means that when the cylinders within the engine’s combustion chamber begin accumulating load, the bolt will both stretch and twist. Because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and it forms a less reliable seal in high-powered engines.

    By contrast, a head stud can be tightened into place without any direct clamping force applied through the tightening. A stud can be threaded into a slot up to “finger tightness,” or the degree to which it would be tightened by hand. Afterward, the cylinder head is installed and a nut is torqued into place against the stud. The nut torque provides the clamping force, rather than the torque of the fastener itself, and the rotational force is avoided entirely. Because the stud is torqued from a relaxed state, the pressure from the nut will make it stretch only along the vertical axis without a concurrent twisting load. The result is a more evenly distributed and accurate torque load compared to that of the head bolt. This ultimately translates into higher reliability and a lower chance of head gasket failure.“
    mofoRS, Dank RS, Twizzty and 1 others like this.

  3. #1273
    RS Senior Member Cpost6meh]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seniorgeek View Post
    IF he is a qualified engineer there is no way properly installed ARP Studs could cause an engine problem.
    Are you saying Ford would not send out a qualified engineer to inspect vehicle? If Ford denied a warranty claim due to ARP Studs or any other aftermarket parts or mods, good luck beating them.

    I respect the decision of those few that want to use ARP studs but will be sticking with OEM head bolts on both of our cars. Just want them both repaired correctly!
    Last edited by Cpost6meh]; 02-15-2018 at 09:35 PM.

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  5. #1274
    RS Pro lucky phil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJZ View Post
    The first update I got today via text:

    Checking valve clearance. All are in specs. Will do leak down on #2 cyl & see if upper or lower leak. Will let you know as it progresses


    The second update:

    Both Cylinder #2 exhaust valves are not seating. Valves were pre-assembled on the head that was replaced

    They are ordering a new cylinder head and will let me know what the timeframe is when they have it.
    The reason the valves are not seating is almost certainly because they are now burnt out due to being adjusted too tight. When you replace the head and use the original cams you must check the valve clearances and replace valve buckets as necessary to get the clearance correct. If the head had come from Ford with poorly seating exhaust valves on #2 it would have been evident from the first start after the HG was replaced. I believe they have got the clearances too tight which will result in burnt out valves and no compression after a period of running.

    Ciao
    Last edited by lucky phil; 02-15-2018 at 09:02 PM.
    If you're not living on the edge you're taking up too much space.

  6. #1275
    RS Specialist RSt~n~peace's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shdobxr View Post
    Update:

    Went to Ted Britt Ford today. Got the svc. manager. They switched my service adviser, looks like from the chat she is fumbling stuff... or that is what I was picking up from the conversation. They are going to perform the pressure test tomorrow. I asked him for a corporate contact, so that a corporate case number can be attained. From the comments I have read since my last post. I agree the most about how f**ked this whole RS FSA has done to the brand. Nevermind to any future RS beyond 2017.
    If they haven’t even done the pressure test, they must me backed up. I would imagine it doesn’t have much to do with the service manager. Was it the blonde, Stacey (might be the name)?
    Shdobxr likes this.
    Frozen (Red) White (Blue) Born on the 4th of July!!!, RS2, moonroof, forged wheels

    Issues: Two passenger side PTU-Axle leaks (now has updated seal), HG replacement

  7. #1276
    RS Senior Member Mr. RMZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viper GTS View Post
    Called yesterday to check on mine (they've had it since Jan 26). Service manager said it was ready so I stopped by this morning.

    Turns out my tech isn't happy with the clutch feel (I asked for motor out). So it's staying a while longer. I made it very clear that there is no rush - I want them to take their time and get it correct and I'll pay for the time needed to make sure that happens.

    I couldn't find the part number on my old gasket but:
    Which dealer is your car at ?
    '16 FW RS2

  8. #1277
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. RMZ View Post
    Which dealer is your car at ?
    Quality Auto Mall in Rutherford, NJ.
    2001 Viper RT/10
    2017 NB Focus RS

  9. #1278
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSt~n~peace View Post
    If they haven’t even done the pressure test, they must me backed up. I would imagine it doesn’t have much to do with the service manager. Was it the blonde, Stacey (might be the name)?
    They said mine had failed within the first two hours they had it. Made me think they got to all of them that fast. It has me wondering if they actually did the test.

  10. #1279
    RS Senior Member DasBalDog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkey302 View Post
    They said mine had failed within the first two hours they had it. Made me think they got to all of them that fast. It has me wondering if they actually did the test.
    Here are the options there....

    -They didn't do the test
    -They didn't do the test correctly
    -They didn't do the test to your car

    2 hours isn't enough time to even begin to cool the motor down if it was at operating temperature when they brought it in.

  11. #1280
    RS Senior Member DasBalDog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DasBalDog View Post
    You need a coolant pressure tester... you can rent them from Autozone/Advanced/etc....

    The kit that you rent from them does NOT have the appropriate adapter, there is a second kit that you have to rent that has additional adapters.... you need one that says Ford 2010+

    You will also need to crank that ****er down to get an acceptable seal.

    For those interested in pressure testing their cars.....

    https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ure/449951_0_0

    You need the above kit for the pump but it DOES NOT have the correct adapter. I can't find the adapter online but Autozone should have it (the one near me did), it was a $99 deposit and had like 8 other adapters. The case is about 1/4 of the size of the main kit and I found it when I looked on their countertop-mat-picture of all the loaner tools.

    So you're in $350 in deposits which you get back when you return the tools.


    Hope this helps someone.
    TLee23 likes this.

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