Rear ended - what next? #PerfectNoMore
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Rear ended - what next? #PerfectNoMore

This is a discussion on Rear ended - what next? #PerfectNoMore within the Focus RS Discussions forums, part of the Focus RS Forums category; Got bumped from behind by a Wagoneer on the way home tonight. Damage appears to be limited to rear bumper shroud but I haven't looked ...

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Thread: Rear ended - what next? #PerfectNoMore

  1. #1
    RS Senior Member Ultrafreaks's Avatar
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    Rear ended - what next? #PerfectNoMore

    Got bumped from behind by a Wagoneer on the way home tonight. Damage appears to be limited to rear bumper shroud but I haven't looked in detail.

    I did search up this thread from the forum: https://www.focusrs.org/forum/17-foc...n-t-match.html

    Doesn't sound super promising, although it should help that only the bumper shroud needs replacement. What's the poop in terms of finding someone that can do paint justice to Nitrous Blue? Any recent revelations?

    thanks,
    Jeff
    2016 Focus RS "MESEEK"
    1992 Miata (Jackson headers, FatCat coilovers, Borla exhaust, Millen sway bars, Hard Dog rollbar)
    2001 Audi S4 Avant (MTM ECU, Recaros, Vogtland coilovers, Forge cat-back) "SAVANT"
    2013 Ford Flex - Family truckster
    Past:
    2013 Subaru WRX STI 5-door (Cobb stage II); 1989 Miata; 1987 Mazda 323 GTX; 1995.5 Audi S6 Avant; 2000 Audi S4 Sedan; 1973 VW Type II Bus; 1992 Subaru Legacy Wagon; 1984 Civic Si; 1975 Fiat 131 Coupe; 1972 Fiat 128 Sedan

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ultrafreaks View Post
    Got bumped from behind by a Wagoneer on the way home tonight. Damage appears to be limited to rear bumper shroud but I haven't looked in detail.

    I did search up this thread from the forum: https://www.focusrs.org/forum/17-foc...n-t-match.html

    Doesn't sound super promising, although it should help that only the bumper shroud needs replacement. What's the poop in terms of finding someone that can do paint justice to Nitrous Blue? Any recent revelations?

    thanks,
    Jeff
    Look for a reputable Ford dealer owned body shop. Grabber blue is tricky let alone nitrous blue. Or ship it to gas in L.A. they'll make it perfect

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    Candidly, I have little hope that your local Ford dealer with a body shop is going to match it.

    First, many times a rear bumper hit transfers energy into the rear fenders causing slight deformation....so have it thoroughly inspected and again when bumper cover is removed.

    Second, find a high end "european" paint shop that uses paint meters to measure the color and flake mix/ratios.

    Third, perfectly matching paint of plastic to metal parts is virtually impossible on a high metallic content paint....even from the factory. Many things affect the final product, spray angle, painting gun pressure, humidity and drying rate of paint on plastic vs metal. At best, you can get close....or at least approaching factory levels....but they will never perfectly match. When you buy a heavy metal flake paint you are stuck with this reality.
    OppositeLock and lottadot like this.

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    RS Senior Member Ultrafreaks's Avatar
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    Thanks - good advice on the Ford body shop. Found one nearby and we'll see how this goes!
    -j
    2016 Focus RS "MESEEK"
    1992 Miata (Jackson headers, FatCat coilovers, Borla exhaust, Millen sway bars, Hard Dog rollbar)
    2001 Audi S4 Avant (MTM ECU, Recaros, Vogtland coilovers, Forge cat-back) "SAVANT"
    2013 Ford Flex - Family truckster
    Past:
    2013 Subaru WRX STI 5-door (Cobb stage II); 1989 Miata; 1987 Mazda 323 GTX; 1995.5 Audi S6 Avant; 2000 Audi S4 Sedan; 1973 VW Type II Bus; 1992 Subaru Legacy Wagon; 1984 Civic Si; 1975 Fiat 131 Coupe; 1972 Fiat 128 Sedan

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    RS Master Shimmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lflouie View Post
    Candidly, I have little hope that your local Ford dealer with a body shop is going to match it.

    First, many times a rear bumper hit transfers energy into the rear fenders causing slight deformation....so have it thoroughly inspected and again when bumper cover is removed.

    Second, find a high end "european" paint shop that uses paint meters to measure the color and flake mix/ratios.

    Third, perfectly matching paint of plastic to metal parts is virtually impossible on a high metallic content paint....even from the factory. Many things affect the final product, spray angle, painting gun pressure, humidity and drying rate of paint on plastic vs metal. At best, you can get close....or at least approaching factory levels....but they will never perfectly match. When you buy a heavy metal flake paint you are stuck with this reality.
    For a living I deal with this daily. Biggest issue is flake size isn’t truly measured in a formal way. Next is agitation in POT while using keeping flake suspended in paint. Another issue is substrate difference and base hue offesets as few paint shops prime bumpers and panels with same primer. Next your DRY FILM THICKNESS or DFT is different when you paint repair Vs Oem. Paint manufactures have a DFT call out and this is insanely important. Or DeltaE is affected and anything greater than 1.00 is noticeable to trained eyes. My incoming paint must me .30 or I reject it.
    Last edited by Shimmer; 05-04-2019 at 10:13 AM.
    lottadot and lflouie like this.
    Hidden Content maybe stock FW RS1 with Ford Flaps



    Hidden Content *Thank you local Ford ASSSHAT dealers for making me drive 900miles back with my car from Logan ,UTAH.lol. Best damn road trip ever thanks again. Yes Fritts Ford, Yes Gosch ,Yes Ken Grody, Yes Perry, yes to all southern Ford California dealers. You are all a frkn joke and I wont ever go back*

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    RS Senior Member cobra90gt's Avatar
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    Pics of damage ?
    nicklulu likes this.
    '17 SG RS2

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    RS Senior Member Ultrafreaks's Avatar
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    Yeah, understand. Honestly I've had poor luck with paint matching and quality of work no matter where I've gone. Euro paint shop matched well on the roof of my Audi S4 but did a pretty poor finishing job. Custom shop that does a lot of race and vintage cars did a poor job of matching on a prior Miata fender.

    I'll give the Ford dealer a go and post results. Hoping they'll have better access to Nitrous metalflake match. We'll see.

    Good call on looking for additional damage. After a closer look I found two tiny dimples in the hatch itself. I think PDR will be a better path to fix them than trying to fix (stud welder, putty, whatever) and respray.
    2016 Focus RS "MESEEK"
    1992 Miata (Jackson headers, FatCat coilovers, Borla exhaust, Millen sway bars, Hard Dog rollbar)
    2001 Audi S4 Avant (MTM ECU, Recaros, Vogtland coilovers, Forge cat-back) "SAVANT"
    2013 Ford Flex - Family truckster
    Past:
    2013 Subaru WRX STI 5-door (Cobb stage II); 1989 Miata; 1987 Mazda 323 GTX; 1995.5 Audi S6 Avant; 2000 Audi S4 Sedan; 1973 VW Type II Bus; 1992 Subaru Legacy Wagon; 1984 Civic Si; 1975 Fiat 131 Coupe; 1972 Fiat 128 Sedan

  9. #8
    RS Senior Member Ultrafreaks's Avatar
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    Pictures don't capture the bumper damage well, but here goes:

    Name:  201905 Right Fender.jpg
Views: 36
Size:  507.4 KBName:  201905 Bumper.jpg
Views: 36
Size:  426.2 KBName:  201905 Left Fender.jpg
Views: 40
Size:  506.7 KBName:  2019.05 Right Hatch.jpg
Views: 36
Size:  520.7 KBName:  201905 Left Hatch.jpg
Views: 38
Size:  470.6 KB
    2016 Focus RS "MESEEK"
    1992 Miata (Jackson headers, FatCat coilovers, Borla exhaust, Millen sway bars, Hard Dog rollbar)
    2001 Audi S4 Avant (MTM ECU, Recaros, Vogtland coilovers, Forge cat-back) "SAVANT"
    2013 Ford Flex - Family truckster
    Past:
    2013 Subaru WRX STI 5-door (Cobb stage II); 1989 Miata; 1987 Mazda 323 GTX; 1995.5 Audi S6 Avant; 2000 Audi S4 Sedan; 1973 VW Type II Bus; 1992 Subaru Legacy Wagon; 1984 Civic Si; 1975 Fiat 131 Coupe; 1972 Fiat 128 Sedan

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