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Curt Focus RS Hitch Resource thread.

This is a discussion on Curt Focus RS Hitch Resource thread. within the Focus RS Accessories forums, part of the Focus RS Forums category; Originally Posted by nwnerd If you have the right tools: ~ You don’t need to remove the wheels ~ You don’t need to jack up ...

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Thread: Curt Focus RS Hitch Resource thread.

  1. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by nwnerd View Post
    If you have the right tools:

    ~ You don’t need to remove the wheels
    ~ You don’t need to jack up the car
    ~ You don’t need to remove the tail lights
    ~ If you have mud flaps (I do), you do need to remove those

    I’ve now done this install 4 times with 4 different hitches & can testify that this is truth. I can have the rear completely disassembled in under 10 minutes now. This last time when installing the Drawtite, i drilled out the bottom 2 studs on each side & replaced with grade 8 hardware. There is another member (i think in this thread) that recommended that. They are soft & strip easily.


    Sent from my iPhone, typos and all.
    DrawTite's instructions had removal of rear lights. I think it's so you can get to the clips underneath the lights. How do you get around that? Just yank harder?

    I have RallyArmor with hardware that comes with it. I tried removing the mudflaps without taking the wheels off, but there's very little clearance between the wheel and the mudflap / wheel liner. I had trouble actually loosening the screws with how tight the space is, and then one of the screws would not come out due to its length. After messing around with it for 15 minutes I decided jacking the car up was the most straight-forward path to get this to work. Given the trouble removing the mudflaps I didn't see myself succeeding at the reinstall afterwards.

    Do you have a photo of what you did to replace those studs, or can you describe it more? Did you just cut them off, and drill through to place new bolts in? Depending on the level of effort required I might consider this mod because I am sketched out by how soft the stock studs are and how little force they are under. (And the fact that at least one of them - top right - is guaranteed stripped)

    Quote Originally Posted by jamesc View Post
    Does the draw- tight still require timing the valance? If like to see some pictures.

    Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk
    Yes, it does. I believe it was 2.5" x 3.25". Entirely not noticeable from behind.

    Quote Originally Posted by nwnerd View Post
    @braap got pics of your Drawtite install?
    Don't have in-process pics, but I can snap some of the final product. I should've done some of the actual install because the instructions that come with DrawTite aren't very illustrative, so I had to go hunting for individual bolts they meant. The instructions also change with mudflaps as the "wheel-well liner" hardware is different now. Looks decent and pretty minimal with the 1.25" receiver. Haven't had a chance to test it yet.
    Last edited by braap; 06-04-2019 at 08:56 AM.
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    Build date: 30.04
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  2. #142
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    I'm curious because the curt bows the valence even when it is trimmed.

    Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk

  3. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by braap View Post
    DrawTite's instructions had removal of rear lights. I think it's so you can get to the clips underneath the lights. How do you get around that? Just yank harder?
    I can't remember offhand if the Curt instructions have you remove the tail lights, but there is a tab section on the bumper that slides under the light housing. You can just pop it out when removing the bumper instead of removing the light. It feels wrong to do that, but it works fine. Remember that you do that after removing the mud flaps because there is a tab that one of the screws for the flaps helps to secure on each side.

    Quote Originally Posted by braap View Post
    I have RallyArmor with hardware that comes with it. I tried removing the mudflaps without taking the wheels off, but there's very little clearance between the wheel and the mudflap / wheel liner. I had trouble actually loosening the screws with how tight the space is, and then one of the screws would not come out due to its length. After messing around with it for 15 minutes I decided jacking the car up was the most straight-forward path to get this to work. Given the trouble removing the mudflaps I didn't see myself succeeding at the reinstall afterwards.
    I have the ZL1 Addons & I think the installation is similar. I have a micro ratchet set that is similar to this one & I've never had to jack up the car regardless of the lack of clearance:

    https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85...E0VWWE7VBK56W8

    The major PITA with those flaps is getting the bottom 2 screws back in the right spots, but it has nothing to do with clearance.

    Quote Originally Posted by braap View Post
    Do you have a photo of what you did to replace those studs, or can you describe it more? Did you just cut them off, and drill through to place new bolts in? Depending on the level of effort required I might consider this mod because I am sketched out by how soft the stock studs are and how little force they are under. (And the fact that at least one of them - top right - is guaranteed stripped)
    I don't have pics, sorry I should have taken some. If it weren't for that part of the project, I would have had the install done in under 30 minutes. Drilling those studs out was really difficult without good tools, which in this case I didn't have. I used a 3/8" chuck Dewalt drill with standard bits & that isn't enough to do the job properly without a lot of pain. So I incurred a lot of pain, but got it done. A 1/2" chuck would work better with good drill bits meant for drilling out metal. But yeah, I cut the studs off then drilled out holes to put in grade 8 bolts with grade 8 washers, lock washers, & nuts. I would have done the top studs, but there isn't any good access for those and they actually still feel good even after 4 installs/reinstalls lol. I did put lock nuts & washers on the top studs FWIW. The bottom ones are not confidence-inspiring though, so I think it's worth the effort.

    @jamesc , the consensus is that the Curt requires a bit more trimming in order to get it to not bow the diffuser. I notched the mounting points on my Curt to make it sit a bit lower than standard & that helped.
    jamesc likes this.
    2017 FW RS2 | Moonroof | Tint | Xpel PPF | Debadged | DMB Graphics in NB
    18x8 Sparco Assetto Garas | 245/40/18 PS4S | ZL1 Addons | Drawtite Hitch
    Findway Mats | YLCNCS license bracket & gas pedal spacer | Stereo Upgrades

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  5. #144
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    I just checked Curt's instructions & they do not have you remove the tail lights. It's probably safer to do so, but I haven't found it to be necessary. YMMV, to each their own, etc etc.
    2017 FW RS2 | Moonroof | Tint | Xpel PPF | Debadged | DMB Graphics in NB
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  6. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesc View Post
    I'm curious because the curt bows the valence even when it is trimmed.
    Of note, I have a feeling the DrawTite the way I have it is bowing a very slight little bit. Not very noticeable unless you are squatting behind the car, but I attributed it to my shoddy cutting job on the heat shield inside the bumper cover.

    Quote Originally Posted by nwnerd View Post
    I can't remember offhand if the Curt instructions have you remove the tail lights, but there is a tab section on the bumper that slides under the light housing. You can just pop it out when removing the bumper instead of removing the light. It feels wrong to do that, but it works fine. Remember that you do that after removing the mud flaps because there is a tab that one of the screws for the flaps helps to secure on each side.


    I have the ZL1 Addons & I think the installation is similar. I have a micro ratchet set that is similar to this one & I've never had to jack up the car regardless of the lack of clearance:

    https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85...E0VWWE7VBK56W8

    The major PITA with those flaps is getting the bottom 2 screws back in the right spots, but it has nothing to do with clearance.

    I don't have pics, sorry I should have taken some. If it weren't for that part of the project, I would have had the install done in under 30 minutes. Drilling those studs out was really difficult without good tools, which in this case I didn't have. I used a 3/8" chuck Dewalt drill with standard bits & that isn't enough to do the job properly without a lot of pain. So I incurred a lot of pain, but got it done. A 1/2" chuck would work better with good drill bits meant for drilling out metal. But yeah, I cut the studs off then drilled out holes to put in grade 8 bolts with grade 8 washers, lock washers, & nuts. I would have done the top studs, but there isn't any good access for those and they actually still feel good even after 4 installs/reinstalls lol. I did put lock nuts & washers on the top studs FWIW. The bottom ones are not confidence-inspiring though, so I think it's worth the effort.

    @jamesc , the consensus is that the Curt requires a bit more trimming in order to get it to not bow the diffuser. I notched the mounting points on my Curt to make it sit a bit lower than standard & that helped.
    Oh bummer about the studs. Pretty sure the stripped one is the top one as I made sure not to go as hard on the others once I had that one secured. I'll see how the hitch sits and proceed from there based on feel.

    The screws that came with RallyArmor flaps are super long and come out at a 90 degree angle to the tire. I could have probably wrangled it out of place with some extra force, but it wasn't budging otherwise. That's a nice tool set though, I was using something similar as well, but it was all kinds of precarious as I have trouble getting my hands between the tire and the wheel well. If I have to do this again, I'll give not taking the wheels off a shot
    Last edited by braap; 06-04-2019 at 09:56 AM.
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    Build date: 30.04
    Delivered: 6/16
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  7. #146
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    Ah, bummer if it's one of the top ones. I'm not sure how you'd fix that since there isn't any good access.

    Honestly, short of going to a style like the Torklift that has the brace that mounts to the cradle, the only thing that I can think of that would make this style stouter (short of what I've done) would be to weld the hitch to the car & be done with it. I do think the Drawtite is a better design than the Curt, so it has a better chance of being solid IMO with what I've done. But beyond that, I have to think that welding would be the only other alternative with this style. If this setup doesn't work out, I may pursue that. I don't think it will come to that for my use cases though.
    2017 FW RS2 | Moonroof | Tint | Xpel PPF | Debadged | DMB Graphics in NB
    18x8 Sparco Assetto Garas | 245/40/18 PS4S | ZL1 Addons | Drawtite Hitch
    Findway Mats | YLCNCS license bracket & gas pedal spacer | Stereo Upgrades

  8. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by nwnerd View Post
    Ah, bummer if it's one of the top ones. I'm not sure how you'd fix that since there isn't any good access.

    Honestly, short of going to a style like the Torklift that has the brace that mounts to the cradle, the only thing that I can think of that would make this style stouter (short of what I've done) would be to weld the hitch to the car & be done with it. I do think the Drawtite is a better design than the Curt, so it has a better chance of being solid IMO with what I've done. But beyond that, I have to think that welding would be the only other alternative with this style. If this setup doesn't work out, I may pursue that. I don't think it will come to that for my use cases though.
    I've thought about that too. Just a few spot welds around the perimeter of the rack would be pretty solid insurance. Not so strong that it couldn't fail, but stronger than just bolts
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  9. #148
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    I'll be back home on Friday, so I'll try to get the rack mounted up & do some testing. It may be good to start a new thread for Drawtite, although we've already cluttered this one up with our chatter lol.
    braap likes this.
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    Findway Mats | YLCNCS license bracket & gas pedal spacer | Stereo Upgrades

  10. #149
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    Update on the Draw-Tite.

    I got the rack mounted today & took a look at it. To revisit, I have a Rocky Mounts Monorail Solo with an addon for a second bike. After mounting the rack with the addon, I put some stress on it while empty from the rear as I did when I had the unmodified Curt mounted last year. I would press straight down on the top of the rear tray, & with the Curt I could see the hitch itself move/flex forward. With the Draw-Tite I have to say, even with all of the work that I did (see my prior posts about drilling out the bottom 4 studs), the Draw-Tite is not any better IMO. I went back & looked at the video that I took of performing the same test on the Curt, & it's the same problem. At that point I didn't bother mounting the bikes up to test because I'm pretty sure that the result will be very similar to what I had with the unmodified Curt. I can repost at some point when I do that. (It might be a while as I'm still recovering from rotator cuff surgery earlier this year & don't yet know if I'm even going to be able to ride at all this year. We'll see.)

    As far as aesthetics, it's pretty unobtrusive & with the larger hole required it allows the diffuser to sit where it should rather than pushing up & bowing it.

    My last thought relates to the rack itself. I bought the Monorail Solo last year & used it all summer. I believe that the design of it may be playing a part in what's happening & maybe exacerbating the problem. If you look at how the tilting mechanism causes the trays to be mounted with a higher leverage point, it seems like more play is introduced into the entire scenario at that point. When I would watch the rack in the rear view mirror, there is a fair amount of side to side movement with it, & I can replicate that motion by moving the bike while mounted in the rack. With 1 bike it was okay/tolerable, but with 2 bikes it became not just side to side but forward & backward, all over the place. My theory is that some of that is the hitch, some the rack, & they're working together to make the problem really bad. Originally I had hoped that the Draw-Tite would be enough of an improvement to remove its issues from the equation, but hope has faded on that point. Of course I could always be wrong on that point, but judging from what I saw today I kinda doubt it.

    Soooooo, I think that I have resigned to the following:
    ~ Sell the Monorail setup & buy a 1Up with an addon.
    ~ Relegate the RS to be a single bike carrier.
    ~ Since all of my friends that are mtn bikers have 1up racks, bring the addon with me when I bike with them (I usually meet them at their place) & use it on their racks to keep from having to take 2 cars.
    ~ When the RS is paid off, buy a dedicated rig for mountain biking & leave the RS at home for those trips.

    I'm tired of dealing with this & just want to move on.
    Last edited by nwnerd; 06-14-2019 at 06:14 PM.
    2017 FW RS2 | Moonroof | Tint | Xpel PPF | Debadged | DMB Graphics in NB
    18x8 Sparco Assetto Garas | 245/40/18 PS4S | ZL1 Addons | Drawtite Hitch
    Findway Mats | YLCNCS license bracket & gas pedal spacer | Stereo Upgrades

  11. #150
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    Pics of the Draw-Tite:

    Name:  48063926788_9bad783be5_k.jpg
Views: 42
Size:  599.7 KB
    Name:  48063926423_6ff62d60e4_h.jpg
Views: 42
Size:  609.7 KB
    Name:  48063925663_7bd54da1ff_h.jpg
Views: 40
Size:  487.7 KB
    jamesc likes this.
    2017 FW RS2 | Moonroof | Tint | Xpel PPF | Debadged | DMB Graphics in NB
    18x8 Sparco Assetto Garas | 245/40/18 PS4S | ZL1 Addons | Drawtite Hitch
    Findway Mats | YLCNCS license bracket & gas pedal spacer | Stereo Upgrades

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