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Replaced the factory fill brake fluid

This is a discussion on Replaced the factory fill brake fluid within the Focus RS Brakes forums, part of the Focus RS Garage category; Originally Posted by DocWalt Torque them to spec. If they're under spec, they leak. Another thing to watch for, spray the bleeder nipples out with ...

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Thread: Replaced the factory fill brake fluid

  1. #211
    RS Specialist Camper Van Someren's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocWalt View Post
    Torque them to spec. If they're under spec, they leak.

    Another thing to watch for, spray the bleeder nipples out with brake cleaner or something..When you first get them hot the fluid expands and oozes out all over. You will also see fluid seep up past the threads too, but that was simply fluid trapped above the seal but below the threads. Should be minimal amounts and after hosing it off I will stop and not keep weeping.
    Ok thanks I didn’t realize there was a torque spec for those. Looks like according to the manual the front screws torque to 19Nm (14 lb-ft) and the rears to 12Nm (9 lb-ft).

    I only have a 1/2” drive torque wrench so I guess I will have to get a smaller one for these bleeders. Also probably some extended 10 and 11mm sockets that can fit over the nipple...
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    @Camper Van Someren (and of course anyone else reading this)


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    RS Specialist Camper Van Someren's Avatar
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    Replaced the factory fill brake fluid

    Quote Originally Posted by MorningZ View Post
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    @Camper Van Someren (and of course anyone else reading this)


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    Yup thanks, that’s where I got those values from that I just posted... I just hadn’t seen torque specs mentioned anywhere previously in the thread.
    Last edited by Camper Van Someren; 12-11-2018 at 08:20 PM.
    Current: 2017 Frozen White Focus RS, 2001 Ranger XLT 4x4, 2015 Sienna AWD

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    lol, either I need sleep or you edited your post... it’s been the longest work week ever and it’s only Tuesday
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    Anyone know the specific quantity of fluid you're supposed to get out of each corner to do a full fluid flush? I see people saying they can do it with 1L but since I'm replacing all fluid, curious what I should expect to pull out of each corner in mL (or oz) to know new fluid has made its way through to the caliper. Didn't see any quantities per corner in this thread.

    Clutch is 80mL in theory, apparently more in practice.

    BTW replacing all since tester is showing 2% water in the reservoir - EVERYTHING MUST GO!!! Push, pull, drag your old brake fluid in...
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    BTW the 90 degree adapter for the Motive is brilliant. Cheers to @MorningZ in post 146 for the 90 degree adapter link! Way better than the cowl propping method I've done in the past, so irritating.

    Motive 0109 bleeder + 90 degree adapter is perfect to avoid messing with the cowl and having to fab up a funnel. It just fits, can fill up the bleeder with fluid and crank up to 30psi without worry. Have used on other Euro cars before where pressure is an issue, but 30psi seems safe on the FoRS. Throw some teflon tape on the copper bleeder joint connections to be safe.

    The RennList guys have a cool mod to the Motive to support "dry bleeding" but that's just laziness IMO - just clean it up afterwards Use denatured alcohol to be 100% sure but honestly wiping it down is plenty.

    The stupid reservoir on these cars makes it miserable to constantly disconnect/fill/reconnect, unless you loosen the cowl and prop it up, so just do the 90 degree adapter and call it a day. That $11 part saves about 30 mins in the process, and avoids hose kinking.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanotech View Post
    BTW the 90 degree adapter for the Motive is brilliant. Cheers to @MorningZ in post 146 for the 90 degree adapter link! Way better than the cowl propping method I've done in the past, so irritating.

    Motive 0109 bleeder + 90 degree adapter is perfect to avoid messing with the cowl and having to fab up a funnel. It just fits, can fill up the bleeder with fluid and crank up to 30psi without worry. Have used on other Euro cars before where pressure is an issue, but 30psi seems safe on the FoRS. Throw some teflon tape on the copper bleeder joint connections to be safe.

    The RennList guys have a cool mod to the Motive to support "dry bleeding" but that's just laziness IMO - just clean it up afterwards Use denatured alcohol to be 100% sure but honestly wiping it down is plenty.

    The stupid reservoir on these cars makes it miserable to constantly disconnect/fill/reconnect, unless you loosen the cowl and prop it up, so just do the 90 degree adapter and call it a day. That $11 part saves about 30 mins in the process, and avoids hose kinking.
    Yes, that 90 degree adapter was nice, but last time I used it it started leaking brake fluid everywhere. I looked on the package and it says it is for compressed air, not for liquids. So be warned, it may not last long. Not sure if the brake fluid corroded seals in it or something...
    Current: 2017 Frozen White Focus RS, 2001 Ranger XLT 4x4, 2015 Sienna AWD

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    Yikes, good to know for next time! I cleaned it out pretty well with alcohol. Will see in a month or two when I do my next bleed.

    I did see it was described as a compressed air fitting... Wonder if the Lisle part described earlier is better? It was not readily available to me in Canada.
    17 Stealth GrEy Canuck Package. Just rotors, pads, and tires for now...

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    For those who installed the Goodridge Phantom lines - did you find the clips janky? I could not come up with an installation that doesn't result in the clips at the hard lines -> stainless/rubber line point rattling around. Terrible fitment.

    The kit seems pretty weak in general TBH. I think I'd order the Mountune lines if I was doing it again.
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    99 Mustang GT 35th Anniversay
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    Quote Originally Posted by Macmorgan View Post
    I find it hard to believe that any car comes new from the factory with "tons of air" in the brake system. I've yet to find my system lacking in any way. Being assembled in Germany, I wouldn't be surprised if the brake fluid used by FoMoCo is DOT 4 from Ate. What did you use to evacuate the "old" brake fluid and how did you bleed the system? If you're using a vacuum based bleeder, it'll not only pull fluid from the caliper but air being sucked past the threads of the nipple. Just a thought.
    I totally agree with you on this subject. I've used all different types of brake bleeders, both pressure and vacuum, and the vacuum bleeders tend to suck air from around the bleeder screw. Not a bad thing; just something to be aware of. Also, I'm pretty sure that the new Fords are all being factory-filled with DOT 4 LV (low viscosity) fluid. The LV fluid provides better performance in cold weather. I also agree that the Ate fluid is very high quality, German fluid as well as Pentosin fluid. Either would work just fine in the FoRS. There's no way that a car left the factory with air in the brake lines! The factory pressure bleeds the brakes and makes sure that the pedal is solid, before the car ever leaves.
    nanotech likes this.
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