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Replaced the factory fill brake fluid

This is a discussion on Replaced the factory fill brake fluid within the Focus RS Brakes forums, part of the Focus RS Garage category; Can I get a little help from somebody who has done the clutch bleeding as a part of the flush process? Maybe @ GoodbyeGolfR could ...

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Thread: Replaced the factory fill brake fluid

  1. #181
    RS Specialist Camper Van Someren's Avatar
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    Can I get a little help from somebody who has done the clutch bleeding as a part of the flush process? Maybe @GoodbyeGolfR could help?

    Iím trying to compare the picture from the manual:


    with what is actually in the transmission tunnel. This picture is from @Zach99 in the shifter base bushing install thread:


    I canít find anything that looks like the clutch bleed valve in that picture. Is it there? Am I even in the right place or is it accessed differently? Thanks for any help!
    Current: 2017 Frozen White Focus RS, 2001 Ranger XLT 4x4, 2015 Sienna AWD

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    Supporting Member MorningZ's Avatar
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    You’re comparing different ends of the cable. The manual’s picture is *outside* the car accessible once you remove the intake. The screen shot is from inside the car
    Last edited by MorningZ; 08-04-2018 at 03:52 PM.
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  3. #183
    RS Specialist Camper Van Someren's Avatar
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    Replaced the factory fill brake fluid

    Quote Originally Posted by MorningZ View Post
    Youíre comparing different ends of the cable. The manualís picture is *outside* the car accessible once you remove the intake. The screen shot is from inside the car
    Ok thanks now you see why I need an idiotís guide.

    I found another post from @cntrdctn86 which conveniently shows the bleeder valve I think:


    Now I just need to figure out where that is in my engine bay. When you say remove the air intake, do you mean the air box with filter or the intake pipe outlined here?


    Edit: looks like I can see the same linkage under the air box. Is there any sort of trick to getting the air box out? Just remove the bolts around it? Iíve taken the cover off to get to the air filter, but never taken the bottom of the box out to access the stuff underneath...
    Last edited by Camper Van Someren; 08-04-2018 at 09:03 PM.
    Current: 2017 Frozen White Focus RS, 2001 Ranger XLT 4x4, 2015 Sienna AWD

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  5. #184
    Supporting Member MorningZ's Avatar
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    Use YouTube to find a video on a short shifter install, thatíll get you to the bleeder valve

    Like this one

    Camper Van Someren likes this.
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    Supporting Member NitroBlueFTW's Avatar
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    YouTube!

    Picks up where school f***ded up.
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  7. #186
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    My clutch is fine and doesn't fade on track... Based on how much of a pain it is to get to the clutch (at least relative to the brake bleeders), I'm guessing few people are bothering to flush it?

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    RS Specialist Camper Van Someren's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gxbry View Post
    My clutch is fine and doesn't fade on track... Based on how much of a pain it is to get to the clutch (at least relative to the brake bleeders), I'm guessing few people are bothering to flush it?
    The concern is not that you will boil the clutch fluid. The problem is that the clutch fluid shares the same master cylinder (fluid reservoir) with the brakes.

    People spend good money on RBF600 or castrol srf to prevent their brake fluid boiling, and then they flush it through the brake lines and fill the master cylinder with it. If they donít also flush the clutch with it then the old fluid will still be in the line that leads directly into the master cylinder, and every time they use the clutch that old fluid will move in and out of the line and eventually will mix with and contaminate the fancy new fluid, thereby lowering the boiling point.

    Iím not sure how practically problematic this is, but it is plausible enough that I plan to bleed the clutch at least a little to move some of the upgraded fluid through the lines. If I donít bleed the entire clutch system and they mix in the clutch slave cylinder that is probably ok since it is far from the master cylinder.

    At least that is how I understand it (admittedly as a noob). If somebody with more experience has thoughts, please chip in.
    Current: 2017 Frozen White Focus RS, 2001 Ranger XLT 4x4, 2015 Sienna AWD

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    Supporting Member MorningZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gxbry View Post
    My clutch is fine and doesn't fade on track... Based on how much of a pain it is to get to the clutch (at least relative to the brake bleeders), I'm guessing few people are bothering to flush it?
    I flushed out using a liter of Motul, bled just the brakes. I did a full weekend track event and 5 days in tight, technical mountain roads (harder on a car than a track even could hope to be). I had zero issues with not bleeding the clutch, there canít be that much fluid in that line (itís a really short run), it wonít be that much, if amy of an issue

    Personally I think itís a big deal being made out of nothing, thatís just my 2 cents
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camper Van Someren View Post
    Ok thanks now you see why I need an idiot’s guide.

    I found another post from @cntrdctn86 which conveniently shows the bleeder valve I think:


    Now I just need to figure out where that is in my engine bay. When you say remove the air intake, do you mean the air box with filter or the intake pipe outlined here?


    Edit: looks like I can see the same linkage under the air box. Is there any sort of trick to getting the air box out? Just remove the bolts around it? I’ve taken the cover off to get to the air filter, but never taken the bottom of the box out to access the stuff underneath...
    My picture is below the airbox. Didn't look to see if someone already said that.
    2016 Focus RS - Stealth Gray, RS2, Moonroof - Ordered 10/12/15, Selected 11/12/15, Built 4/15/16 BMF, Shipped 6/14/16, Delivered 7/22/16
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    OK, I did the brake flush today. I didn't bother with the clutch because my car has 2k miles on it and the OEM fluid is still clean (couldn't tell the color apart in the tube), so if that mixes a little bit that seems fine. I also put on aftermarket (gorilla) lug nuts so I don't need to bother with the wheel locks, and can swap wheels without swapping nuts.

    Other than that, when bleeding the rears, the air bubbles never really stopped: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gtdKXHjQFRyw7YsL7. I filled about a third of the bottle before I decided to just call it good. Not sure why this happened, I didn't have that problem on the fronts. Any ideas?

    Process:
    1. Siphon out old fluid from reservoir
    2. Refill w/ new fluid back to max line
    3. Screw on power bleeder, Fill it with fluid, Pump to 20 psi
    4. Jack up front and remove the wheels.
    5. Order: RR, LR (10mm), RF, LF (11mm or 7/16", inner then outer)
    6. Rears only: Bleed, close, pump the handbrake 5 times, repeat until no air.
    7. Reinstall wheels, empty the Motive lines and wipe down tank, top off your brake reservoir if needed, clean up.

    Took a good 2-3hrs because it was my first time taking off the wheels and first time messing with brake fluid.

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