How to: Oil change
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How to: Oil change

This is a discussion on How to: Oil change within the Focus RS Maintenance forums, part of the Focus RS Garage category; Edit: Enjoy your RS's folks mine blew up after 9,300 miles (head gasket failure) and it took Ford 52 days to repair, ultimately buying the ...

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Thread: How to: Oil change

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    How to: Oil change

    Edit: Enjoy your RS's folks mine blew up after 9,300 miles (head gasket failure) and it took Ford 52 days to repair, ultimately buying the vehicle back from me. Worst car ownership experience ever - hope yours is better.

    Well, this should be pretty straight forward. I went ahead and took a few pictures while changing my oil in the hopes it's useful for someone here. I couldn't find any other references so i thought this would be a good start. I'll update as necessary.

    I won't go over some of the basics such as how to lift your car. I'm sure someone else here will discuss that in detail. My intent is just to cover how to change the oil.

    Tools and Supplies
    The oil capacity for the RS is stated at 5.7 quarts when changing the oil filter. The recommended viscosity is 5w-50. The Motorcraft oil filter part number is FL910S
    • 5.7 quarts of 5w-50 full synthetic oil (OEM recommendation: Motorcraft® SAE 5W-50 Full Synthetic Motor Oil XO-5W50-QGT. Strongly encouraged to stick with this oil as it's one of the only oils carrying the correct certification WSS-M2C931-C from Ford)
    • Oil filter (OEM recommendation: Motorcraft FL910S)
    • 15mm socket or wrench for oil drain plug
    • Flathead screwdriver for removing pop-rivets
    • Torx T-30 for removing undertray
    • Oil filter wrench (I wasn't able to remove mine by hand from the factory)
    • Torque wrench (if you want to do things right you should have one)
    • Auto molding pry tool (for removing the plastic pop-rivets and not destroying them)
    • Drain pan
    • Paper towels & rubber gloves




    Step 1 - Remove Undertray
    Remove undertray. There are 8 x T30 Torx bolts and 2 x plastic pop rivets. There are two plastic pop rivets in the center of the tray shown that do NOT need to be removed. Once you have removed all 10 fasteners you can release the tray by putting your hand through the access hole as shown in the image below and releasing the clip that is attached to the sway bar. Be gentle, it doesn't take much force. See image below.





    Step 2 - Drain Oil Pan & Re-Install Plug
    Open the fill plug on the top of the motor to allow oil to drain. Get your oil pan and a 15mm socket or box wrench and open up the drain plug. Allow for at least 10 minutes or so for the oil to properly drain. Inspect and clean the drain plug to ensure the rubber gasket seal is not damaged. You do not need a crush washer. Re-install the drain plug and torque to 19 lb/ft (26 Nm).





    Step 3 - Remove Oil Filter & Install New Filter

    Get your drain pan and towels this is messy. The filter is located in the front of the car. Mine was very tight from the factory and i needed to use a filter wrench to get enough torque to remove. Allow about 10 minutes for the oil to continue to drain. Clean up everything that got messy from removing the filter and re-install the new filter. Torque new filter to 18 lb/ft (25 Nm).



    Step 5 - Fill Oil & Re-Install Undertray
    This one is pretty straight forward. Once you've double checked that your drain plug is properly installed and your oil filter is back on go ahead and fill up with 5.7 quarts of oil.

    Step 6 - Quality Control & Undertray Re-Installation
    Inspect your work. Ensure the oil level is correct and re-install the undertray. Remember when re-installing the undertray to start first with the clip that attaches to the sway bar. Once clipped on the tray will stay up so you can attach the rest of the fasteners.

    Step 7 - Oil Life Reminder Reset (thanks @j0shm1lls )
    1. Press the engine start/stop button without depressing the brake or clutch (one position before starting engine).
    2. Press the brake and gas pedals at the same time; after 3 seconds the "Service: Oil reset in prog." message will appear and after 25 seconds the "Service: Oil reset complete" message will appear.
    3. Release the brake and gas pedals.
    4. Turn the ignition off and then start the engine to verify the indicator has been reset.
    Last edited by rever5e; 05-29-2017 at 02:58 PM.

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    Why do the pop rivets need to be removed? That's a part that doesn't hold up well to being removed and installed. Likely have to replace them every other oil change.

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    To get the lower tray off the pop rivets have to be removed from the front left and right side. The center ones don't have to be removed but make it easier.

    @Bluebyutoo

    Edit: They seem pretty rigid and if care is taken they should be fine and not need to be replaced.
    Last edited by Zeroescence; 07-06-2016 at 01:19 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by rever5e View Post
    Re-install the drain plug and torque to x ft/lbs.
    lol, now I have to look up what x is since I am kind of anal about torquing things down properly.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Batman View Post
    lol, now I have to look up what x is since I am kind of anal about torquing things down properly.
    Oops I forgot to update this I needed to find it in the workshop manual. Thanks for the reminder
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    Quote Originally Posted by rever5e View Post
    Oops I forgot to update this I needed to find it in the workshop manual. Thanks for the reminder
    According the shop manual I have:

    Torque: 19 lb.ft (26 Nm)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluebyutoo View Post
    Why do the pop rivets need to be removed? That's a part that doesn't hold up well to being removed and installed. Likely have to replace them every other oil change.
    I've removed pop rivets on various cars 30+ times without replacing. The problem is you aren't using the right tool. Get a set of the auto molding pry tools like i linked to above and save yourself the headache of replacing them. It's only $5.00 for the entire set. The ones on the Focus came out extremely easily.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Batman View Post
    lol, now I have to look up what x is since I am kind of anal about torquing things down properly.
    Added the correct torque for the drain plug and also the torque for the oil filter.

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    Step 2b) Start car and run to make sure you get all oil out of the system.



    Just kidding. I had too...
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    Thank You, very good write-up and pictures are always help. I was wondering how it was going to be to change the oil in this beast.
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