Bridgestone re-71r price list
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Bridgestone re-71r price list

This is a discussion on Bridgestone re-71r price list within the Focus RS Wheels and Tires forums, part of the Focus RS Garage category; I threw together a google doc for the prices of RE-71R on Tirerack with links to specific size and colored for color: RED YELLOW BLUE ...

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Thread: Bridgestone re-71r price list

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    Bridgestone re-71r price list

    I threw together a google doc for the prices of RE-71R on Tirerack with links to specific size and colored for color: RED YELLOW BLUE 3 color, from lowest price to highest price. The doc is editable.

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing


    I guess I made it for the purpose of choosing which size tire I want and wheel size, I am not an expert and your input is appreciated. Thank you.
    I wish I knew which wheel size was ideal for something similar to what the factory flush would be. Edit: Maybe since 205mm for a 17x7 in a miata and 19x8 for an RS is 235, maybe that gives a clue that tire mm converted to inches rounded down to the nearest half inch minus an inch is flush.
    I wish I knew how to automate price and maybe size availability updates.
    Maybe someone can find it useful.


    I am thinking either
    235/45R1794W 0.6 percent more torque 17x8
    245/40R1791W 3.1 percent more torque 17x8.5 or 8
    245/45R1795W -0.8 percent less torque 17x8.5 or 8

    8 inch wheel with a little overhang with the 245s would protect my new wheels from potential curb rash at the expense of road feel, which is peace of mind vs performance, but I think I understand where the car's wheel dimensional limits from the driver seat are now, but if I wanted to push the limit on the road, the peace of mind would be nice.

    Right now there are 245 35 19s on the stock 19x8 and I think flush wheels would have better road feel.
    I wonder if the load rating matters much. Maybe the 235 45 17 and 245 45 17 with their increased load rating would therefore have a stiffer sidewall, which would be nice, but would the 3% more torque be even nicer. I can tell a difference in torque going from 235 35 19 to 245 35 19.

    I looked to this thread for 17 inch wheel guidance
    https://www.focusrs.org/forum/18-foc...ls-thread.html


    I wonder which 17s would hold up to gravel roads but be light for acceleration on the street.


    What do you think???


    PS: I wish my car would stop having the P0171 lean code (code has plagued me since I got the HG). Makes me upset.
    Last edited by tomketchum; 04-02-2019 at 07:17 AM.

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    RS Specialist BigFatFlip's Avatar
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    I remember going thru a similar exercise when I was shopping around for track wheels/tires. Few things I learned:
    -Smaller the wheel diameter, the cheaper
    -Smaller the tire section/width, the cheaper
    -For track tires specifically, find the cheapest performance tire you can get, not necessarily the best, since they are essentially "consumables". This is why I shy'd away from the RE71R's and went with the Federal RSRRs
    -If you want wheel curb protection, I wouldn't depend on section width. My 245 RSRRs on the stock wheel were plenty wide but didn't have this feature and I still scuffed by my wheels. Find a tire that specifically has a rim protector feature (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=149).
    -Wheel-selection-wise, I think 18x8's strike the best balance in selection and price. You can then find the right off-set to make it as "flush" as you want.
    -A performance tire should have plenty stiff sidewall, but if its of concern, a slight "stretch"/undersized width can help. This also means cheaper tires.

    In the end, I ended up with 18x8's with 245/40 Hankook RS4's for my trackday set-up and 17x8 with 245/45 Michelin PS4Ss for my daily

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigFatFlip View Post
    I remember going thru a similar exercise when I was shopping around for track wheels/tires. Few things I learned:
    -Smaller the wheel diameter, the cheaper
    -Smaller the tire section/width, the cheaper
    -For track tires specifically, find the cheapest performance tire you can get, not necessarily the best, since they are essentially "consumables". This is why I shy'd away from the RE71R's and went with the Federal RSRRs
    -If you want wheel curb protection, I wouldn't depend on section width. My 245 RSRRs on the stock wheel were plenty wide but didn't have this feature and I still scuffed by my wheels. Find a tire that specifically has a rim protector feature (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=149).
    -Wheel-selection-wise, I think 18x8's strike the best balance in selection and price. You can then find the right off-set to make it as "flush" as you want.
    -A performance tire should have plenty stiff sidewall, but if its of concern, a slight "stretch"/undersized width can help. This also means cheaper tires.

    In the end, I ended up with 18x8's with 245/40 Hankook RS4's for my trackday set-up and 17x8 with 245/45 Michelin PS4Ss for my daily
    I'm running the same tire (RS4) at the same size (245/40) on 18x9. The golden rule for me is to buy tires at discount tire direct on holiday sales only (4th of July, labor day, memorial day), I bought a set of RE71R's in 255/35 for around $190 per tire after rebates, including tax, delivered to my door
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    RS Senior Member wiltocking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsyes View Post
    I'm running the same tire (RS4) at the same size (245/40) on 18x9. The golden rule for me is to buy tires at discount tire direct on holiday sales only (4th of July, labor day, memorial day), I bought a set of RE71R's in 255/35 for around $190 per tire after rebates, including tax, delivered to my door
    What 18x9's are you running? I'm also looking to get a good set of track wheels at that size and lighter than OEM's. Thinking of going for the Titan-7's at the moment. This size seems to strike the balance between performance and cost.
    | 2016 FORD RS | RS2 PACKAGE | NITROUS BLUE | 19" PREMIUM PAINTED FORGED WHEELS | MICHELIN CUP 2 TRACK SUMMER TIRES |

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    Quote Originally Posted by wiltocking View Post
    What 18x9's are you running? I'm also looking to get a good set of track wheels at that size and lighter than OEM's. Thinking of going for the Titan-7's at the moment. This size seems to strike the balance between performance and cost.
    I've got the Titan7 T-S5, they are 17.5 pounds each. I know a few who track them and I haven't heard any complaints
    wiltocking likes this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsyes View Post
    I'm running the same tire (RS4) at the same size (245/40) on 18x9. The golden rule for me is to buy tires at discount tire direct on holiday sales only (4th of July, labor day, memorial day), I bought a set of RE71R's in 255/35 for around $190 per tire after rebates, including tax, delivered to my door
    Listen to this guy. If you want to come up in the car game, read his post three times. I buy tires for my bikes and my cars just like him. I buy before I need them and get the best tire deals on the market all year. On my DD, I bought tires last year July 4th. Conti discounted the tires, then also had a rebate (prepaid visa) and also DT had their own prepaid visa so I doubled up. Ends up making the tires very cheap but like he said, you have to watch/monitor, and wait. Like a slot machine, it’ll come up and you have to be ready and buy them right then, even if you don’t need them. I 100% verify what he is saying. July 4th, and Labor/Memorial day are the best all year for tires. Motorcycle tires are different but pretty close to the same thing.

    My bikes are better than the car tires. I’ll buy a set, get a prepaid visa, then sell them when I’m done end up around $20 out of pocket for tires, and $100 if I include mounting. Most people that ride liter bikes will pay nearly $300 for a set of tires and $100 to mount them, so $400 all in. Sign up on the tire mfr’s website for the weekly emails and monitor. You can cash in if you get your hustle on. If you don’t need them now, buy them and wrap them up in trash bags. They’ll be fine for years. I also echo him on going to 18’s. I run 235/40/18’s, that’s all the car needs. Wider is for looks as the drivetrain doesn’t need the centimeters. I pulled the 19’s off the RS within a month because there isn’t enough meat on 19’s. You want at minimum a 35 series tire, and my preference is a 40 series. I made money selling my OEM wheels and tires and going to 18’s. Made enough that I put $200-300 on my second set of wheels and tires for winter use. The RS is an all weather all season vehicle and people put these little rubber band tires on it. I’ll never understand that. I would have gone 17” if there were more wheel choices available. The sweet spot for the car is 18’s. More rubber, more choice, and tires are just as grippy but less expensive.
    Don't worry, scrote. There are plenty of 'tards out there living really kick-ass lives. My first wife was 'tarded. She's a pilot now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cornerexit View Post
    Listen to this guy. If you want to come up in the car game, read his post three times. I buy tires for my bikes and my cars just like him. I buy before I need them and get the best tire deals on the market all year. On my DD, I bought tires last year July 4th. Conti discounted the tires, then also had a rebate (prepaid visa) and also DT had their own prepaid visa so I doubled up. Ends up making the tires very cheap but like he said, you have to watch/monitor, and wait. Like a slot machine, it’ll come up and you have to be ready and buy them right then, even if you don’t need them. I 100% verify what he is saying. July 4th, and Labor/Memorial day are the best all year for tires. Motorcycle tires are different but pretty close to the same thing.
    I used to buy a lot of my parts this way, but I have since stopped doing this particularly for tires since I have been sold tires with old date codes more than once from various sellers. Depending on the amount of savings and my immediate need, I would gladly take the $ hit knowing that the tires that I get were made less than a year or so ago.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigFatFlip View Post
    I used to buy a lot of my parts this way, but I have since stopped doing this particularly for tires since I have been sold tires with old date codes more than once from various sellers. Depending on the amount of savings and my immediate need, I would gladly take the $ hit knowing that the tires that I get were made less than a year or so ago.
    You purchased tires with old date codes from Discount Tire (direct)?
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    RS Specialist BigFatFlip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsyes View Post
    You purchased tires with old date codes from Discount Tire (direct)?
    No, Discount Tire and Tirerack both have always been good with the age of their tires. They are almost always never the cheapest option either. I was more talking about the other lesser known tire retailers with the bargain basement pricing.

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