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Best Camber angle compromise for DD and Track

21K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  320icar 
#1 ·
Hello,

i just installed coilovers and adjustable camber arms at the rear.
So what do think is the best camber angle compronise for daily driving and some track use.
What is your experience?
Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Your question, as stated, is too broad to provide a meaningful answer. In general on awd Mcpherson performance cars, front camber in the -2 to-2.5 degrees is the reasonable upper limit for street/track setups. Some go as high as -3 but it tends to make wet street use sketchy. Rear camber settings really are determined by the track, use, and driver style, IMO. Once again a general guideline is -1 to -1.5 camber works well with conventional independent rear suspension for a mixed use car. These can all change significantly on a track focused car and how much the car has been altered: tires, ride height, wheel offset, etc.
 
#3 ·
Our cars already come with 1.25-1.7* of camber on the front don’t they? Not sure what the rear is. Our cars are very limited alignment wise. It almost seems like if you’re gonna get coilovers for the track, go with a more aggressive camber. Otherwise you’d be running similar to the stock setup. Does this make sense?


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#5 ·
Simple answer is yes you want more front camber but part of your dilemma is going to be the ride height. On the RS you will actually initially increase camber as the ride height drops from stock until the front axle is parallel to the ground, then the camber starts decreasing after that point....which is normal for McPherson struts. So if your car is lowered at or below parallel axle height you will need more static camber than stock bc you will have greater camber loss per unit of deflection in the early part of the shock stroke than if axle were at normal (stock) position. I would be targeting some thing in the -2.5 range as a starting point, and then adjust to suit my preferences.

IMO, on a mixed use car -1.2 rear camber is a "safe" starting point.....remember the rears gain camber under compression...the opposite of McPherson struts.
 
#7 ·
So Iflouie, how does changing sway bars fit into the mix as concerned with initial camber settings?
As there is less body roll/deflection with a stiffer bar then I'm assuming there is also less camber change. So if I'm assuming right you would want less initial negative camber in the front, but more in the rear?
 
#9 ·
@lotushiast My daily driven suspension set up consists of Falken 615K+ 235 40 tires, 18x8.5,19lb wheels, front track widened 66mm, rear track widened 56mm, front 2 piece rotors, OEM anti-roll bars, front and rear strut braces, lower front and rear subframe braces, weight reduced to approx 3050 lbs, front lowered 1" and rear lowered 1.5", Feal coils with 13K front springs, 12K rear, -3 degree front camber, 0 toe, rear -2 degree camber 0 toe. The car eats turns and is so much fun to drive!
 
#16 ·
I don't think you will be able to adjust camber from the top without drilling the strut tower. The STB will only give you access to the rebound adjustment at the top, but you won't have access to all 4 screws to adjust camber.
 
#15 ·
For ideal camber settings you don't want the front and back too far from eachother, and you also want more camber in the front.
Once you get too much front camber you need to add toe in which eats tires. So if you can find a happy camber point which doesn't make the car tramline.
2.0f 1.7r is where I would start.
Once you know what you want having the car properly corner balanced will also help
 
#20 ·
I need to get my car back on the alignment rack. But with oem alignment adjustment, whiteline lowering springs and 255/35r18 on 18x8.75 et35 I had almost -1.9° or -2.0° Front and 1.5° rear camber. The wider track of the wheels really help. Having new tires put on yesterday and then driving to have coffee with a buddY, you could clearly see on the front wheels that the rubber collected a bunch of dust, but the farthest out 2” of the tread were nice and clean
 
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